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Projects Help with fender removal 56 Fairlane

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by MrYeats, Dec 27, 2023.

  1. MrYeats
    Joined: Dec 11, 2023
    Posts: 48

    MrYeats

    I have searched the internet for a video or some info on how to remove the fenders from a 56 Fairlane. In case I need them removed in order to replace the front crossmember ***embly. No luck finding it.
    Anybody know?
     
  2. texasred
    Joined: Dec 3, 2008
    Posts: 1,221

    texasred
    Member
    from Houston

    to remove the fenders you have to remove the hood first, why would replacing front crossmember involve fender removal
     
    MrYeats likes this.
  3. 325w
    Joined: Feb 18, 2008
    Posts: 6,496

    325w
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Pull the radiator. Pull the hood. Unsnap the front electrical harness. Remove the battery. On top of the cowl will be a fender bolt on each side. Underside of the fender is a bolt each side. Along the back edge of the inner fender will bolts are brackets. At the front bottom of the core support is two bolts. Have two helpers. Lift the fenders grille all in an ***embly. Probably run into a bolt are screw along the way that has to be loosened. If it has good paint tape the matching fender and door with blue tape. This will give you plenty of room.
     
    Bob Lowry, MrYeats, loudbang and 2 others like this.
  4. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 8,762

    RodStRace
    Member

    325w has the stuff. The inner fenders are usually not attached to the frame or firewall, but check to be sure. Some cars have rubber flaps covering the suspension adjusting points that may span between inner and frame.
    I would toss in that you should look all around the perimeter of each fender and the core support and squirt some penetrating lube on everything at least a week before and try to get the inner end of each bolt, when possible. Expect to have one or more break, and do what you can to avoid this. Lube, tap with a hammer, ease each one out, in, out, even some heat. It beats having to extract/drill the stub.
    I'd also take measurements before dis***embly of stuff like ride height, spindle location and any other stuff needed to ensure the new parts end up where you need them. All parts removed should have witness marks showing where they were bolted together and aligned. If you are going to just R&R, this will be useful for re***embly. If you are going to replace any body parts or refinish them, aligning will be a process.
     
    bobss396 and MrYeats like this.
  5. camer2
    Joined: Mar 25, 2011
    Posts: 11

    camer2
    Member

    The inner kick panel inside the car on both sides needs to be removed, there is a nut halfway up the inner post to be removed through an access hole. The fenders have a stud that goes through the a pillar there, then the fender needs to be pried out slightly from the bottom to allow the fender to be free of the a pillar.
     
    ffr1222k likes this.
  6. jaracer
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,046

    jaracer
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    For what it's worth; the front crossmembers rusted out on the 55/56 Fords because they didn't all have drain holes at the low point. Back in about 65 or 66, I had a 55 wagon and the front crossmember broke while my sister was driving it. She called home and said there was something rusty looking hanging down and the car would backup but not go forward. My dad and I went out to get her and found the front of one lower A frame dragging on the ground. The reason it wouldn't go forward was that she was on a brick streed and the A frame would catch on the bricks. Dad and I chained the A frame back up and I drove it home. I remember my dad using a chisel and hammer to get the old one out and sourcing a good crossmember at one of the local junk yards (it had a drain hole). I think he only removed the front bumper and grille. I know he didn't remove the fenders.
     
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  7. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 8,762

    RodStRace
    Member

    good info, jaracer. I included stuff that did not ***ume what was being replaced (swap to non HAMB stuff?), and general tips depending on various refinish and replacement.
    If OP is just swapping out the original xmember with another stock part, knowing it can be done with front clip in place is useful and would save time and effort.
     
    Bob Lowry likes this.
  8. MrYeats
    Joined: Dec 11, 2023
    Posts: 48

    MrYeats

    Welder and mechanic will evaluate the job soon.
     
  9. I'd recommend doing this.... Projects - 56 Fairlane frame question | The H.A.M.B. (jalopyjournal.com)
    I wouldn't remove the fenders if possible because of the lower bolt into the rockers. This threads into a threaded insert that's welded in, and with the rust that shows up there more often than not you'll tear the insert out of the body, requiring welded repairs to reinstall.

    I'd also leave the diagonal braces to the original crossmember in place, cutting them free of the bad crossmember. This will help in locating the replacement.
     
    RodStRace and MrYeats like this.
  10. MrYeats
    Joined: Dec 11, 2023
    Posts: 48

    MrYeats

    Thanks. This is just the kind of input I need.
     

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