What issues have you Pennsylvania guys had when registering for the STREET ROD application between the enhanced inspection itself, and if the state rejected it? And how recent? Hoping for info for the past 5 years or so but within 10 years may still be useful. I searched a few variations here and I have found that blue dot tail lights are a no-go, and make sure they see the signals ON in the sent picture if they are integrated into your head lights. This is a reconstructed/replica NC vin so I’m wondering if PA will send me a new PA-VIN based on other things I found here. Based on the local DMV laws I will need to add a windshield wiper and emergency brake for starters. Windshield meets the 7” requirement on the nose. Should I go through a state representative for more luck with the registration? HEADS UP that PA is starting to require pictures even for Antique plates again since July. So even if you don’t have an R ***le the open wheel guys may not be able to go the old route. Thanks for your help!
Not familiar with Pa. Here in Wisconsin the processes are pretty straight forward. bill of sales on all major components, Safety inspection and possibly a bond to attain ***le, In Wisconsin your car would need some type of fender covering the tires, bumpers, of some type of fashion, mostly basics safety equipment. Contact you DMV and and follow their lead, their rules their game. They will inspect it and tell you what you need. Might take a few attempts but once your approved your good to go, Larry
You need to get an Enhanced Inspection. You are best to ask your questions at a place that does them. Not all Inspection stations do that. They get training and information from the state with the changes. I get most state bulletin's from PennDOT. I have not seen any changes recently. Hot rods do not need fenders if they have a street rod plate. No street rod plate you need fenders. You generally only get a new vin plate if you have none. I have been told it can take up to a year to get the plates.
I went through the process a little over 10 years ago with my fenderless roadster. I don't think it has changed since then. I'm getting ready to do it again with a new build. It's not so bad once you resolve to do it. My roadster application was kicked back for having the gas tank in the pick-up bed. I had to move the fuel tank down under the bed floor. The ***le came two weeks after I sent it back in. Probably 2 months for the whole deal. I would recommend getting the application papers and reading the vehicle code for street rods and special construction street rods. Then find the enhanced special construction inspection station that you are going to work with, then you can discuss it with them. The inspection guys understandibly mostly cover their *** first, but will help you out with stuff where they can. The last guy I used had a wife who was the notary and that helped stream line the process.
i was fortunate enough to get mine ***led as an antique way before they started requiring pictures again. if i were you I would just get a regular plate and pay for the "sticker" every year.
Much appreciated for the responses, my issue is that I’ve spoken with several different enhanced inspection places and they are not familiar with the street rod side of things and what you can get away with opposed to your more current every day R-***le vehicles that get rebuilt after a wreck and on the road. Does anyone know of a place around them I could call that has a fair bit of experience with inspecting and registering street rods? I’m in process of reading all the street rod vehicle codes via PUB 45, and then the subchapter K then those codes that are referenced within this sub chapter. Did I mention how much I love reading government regulations over making any type of progress on literally anything else?
After I thought about it a bit I deleted my last post. When I did my hoodless and fenderless car, a hood less car required heat shields to cover exposed exhaust components and fan shrouds covering radiator fans. Fuel tanks in p***enger compartments or trunk was also a no go. PM me if you want.
I'm in NEPA. I send out for Antique tags on all my old cars. Just fill out the paperwork and send in the ***le and check. No pictures. No questions. Weeks later I get the plate and new ***le. No more inspections or yearly registrations. I'm glad I got them before the picture requirement.
I got my ***le more th 10 years ago. Most fun as having Penn DOT vacate my ***le without telling me they were sending a new VIN plate. I won't publicize my non-compliant issues,as some maybe still are (you can PM me) but I added a fan shroud (no hood) and made sure my tires were inside a drop line from the fender edge-no longer required. Most importantly, DO go through your State Representative. You'll get much less h***le from PennDOT that way.
I did see the ‘genderless’ and got a good laugh out of that, today’s autocorrect is out of control haha. Well…. looking at section 175.210 ‘unconventional operator location’ #8 it states that I need a defroster control. Since the coupe is not genderless or equipped with a defroster control it will never p***…
It is not a ***le I would deny, my nick name at work is MacGyver so it probably fits. but that’s the sub chapter page 90-91 (page 98 of the web pdf)
It looks like you are a bit farther north of us, but I would try talking to one of the local builders like GIS automotive or pro comp customs. In the last 5 years I have only registered two as antiques and they didn't require any photos. Haven't done any as street rods yet, maybe someday. Chris
Thanks for the tip, I am in Pitt area now and then for work and just moved back up North from Apollo/plum area last year. I might reach out to them and see what advice they have.
1.If you are not in an unconventinal operator location, do you still need a defroster control? 2. It doesn't say anything about the defroster needing to be operational, only that the control must be in reach
Yeah, I was one of the first to get the "street rod" plates, many moons ago. It was total chaos & everyone involved said something different about everything. I was wondering if things got more organized, but it appears that it's all business as usual. And, it appears that they added some weird ****...like a defroster control? I guess that means I'd need a defroster? Here's one little example that I actually still do have pictures of, which you'll appreciate. I got ***igned to this woman at the DMV that said my gas tank (which, incidentally turns 100 years old this year) was unsafe. I remember telling her that the original one ('33 Ford truck) was under the seat & now I have it in the bed area, protected from collision by the 2" X 4" frame. Which one would you pick? Se told me that she meant ... "If there was something loose in the bed (like a bowling ball, maybe) that it could roll around & rupture the gas thank." At that point, I told here there was no floor for anything to roll around on & that if I put a bowling ball in the bed, it would just fall through an open space & hit the ground. I was also going to tell her that there was such a thing as a bowling ball bag, but shut my mouth, just in time. She then said the gas tank could be covered to protect it from stuff sliding or rolling around in the bed. So, at that point, I said that I'd correct that. I then constructed a cover, as shown below. She accepted it & I then removed it & turned it into a bird bath, if I remember correctly. The only advice I can give is to persevere. Good luck.
according to the regulation you posted, unconventional operator location usually refers to right hand drive. I don't think that applies to your vehicle. As for the defroster, all equipment in subsection E also applies. The defroster must be in safe operating condition. It then says: (8) Check the front windshield defroster system, if so equipped, and REJECT IF the defroster fan does not function. So, no you do not need a defroster.
Only picture I needed for Antique plate/YOM plate was of the Vin. plate. And it has to match ***le. Mine was a Virgina ***le. Gonna do my Model A this spring too. Need to find a good YOM plate for it. One with a number not in the system already because they consider them a personal plate. And really dont care it it is a 1930, '60 or '75 plate.
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