Technical Ford v8 engine start minimal wires

I know this has been covered before, but i search and find many variations and i am a novice trying to get an engine started.
1964 v8 ford. Points and condenser.
Is this image below going to work?
Or does someone have a link to a better sketch?

 

Nope. It might fire then die - coil is only seeing 9v when cranking.

Remove I to ballast wire at ballast and instead connect to coil +. Connect A to ballast with a new wire. Should run!

 

That will do the basic job. However, I would bypass the resister while under starter engage. The factory does this to give a full 12-V to the coil. Makes for easer starting. If you are using a 4-pole solenoid that is what the small terminal marked I is for. Just add a jumper from it to the + post on the Coil.

 

OK, i think you are both saying, remove the resistor, go from the I to the + on the coil?

Happydaze is saying to connect the A terminal on the solenoid(battery side) to the resistor, but then to where? To the coil + ?

 

The I terminal is only Hot when the starter is engaged. You need full time Batt power to resister when running.

 

Sorry, i want to be sure i understand correctly.
I will need:
A wire from the I terminal of the solenoid to the + side of the coil
AND will need a wire from the Batt side of the solenoid, that runs through the resistor to the + side of the coil?

 

Yep, with an on-off switch between the Batt side and the + coil terminal. Also need a start circuit.

 

You got it!

Chris

 

Also keep in mind that the solenoid grounds through the mounting bracket.

 

this is how my p/u is with 12v neg. ground. View attachment 5932142 click for fullsize

 

Good eye!

Chris

 

Also keep in mind that the solenoid grounds through the mounting bracket. YES WAS AWARE OF THIS AND I HAVE A GROUND WIRE CONNECTED TO THE ENGINE GROUND

this is how my p/u is with 12v neg. ground. View attachment 5932142 click for fullsize I CANNOT OPEN THIS ATTACHMENT. ALTHOUGH I THINK I GOT THE PICTURE

I HAVE ATTACHED A NEW DIAGRAM
THANKS FOR THR HELP

 

Isn't this running yet?

Revised diagram looks fine.

Chris

 

Correct. You should be making noise now.

 

Late to the party but it needs a wire with a switch.

 

You guys are funny. I am not like you. This is not simple to me.
I have the wiring complete.
Next problem, but is something i will research on line, is that i dont have spark at the plugs. I d have power at the coil. And power at the dist. No spark when points open and close. So i am getting somewhere.
Thanks

 

I always forget the switch. But I can always kill that sucker quick somehow.

 

You shouldn't have power at the distributor. it only grounds the coil when the points close. An ohmmeter or test light can be used to check and see.

 

Depending on your specific dist, you may have a ground wire from the Points mount screw to the housing missing.

 

To HOT START a period FORD, you run a jumper wire between the BAT PIN on the SOLENOID to the POS + side of the COIL. You than jump/short with a screw driver from the BAT PIN on the solenoid to the S PIN momentarily until she fires.

Now this is to get in to the shop. If you keep it running in this fashion, it may overheat the coil and damage the points/condenser.

This is done to by-pass the IGN SW.



OH SH!AT!

This method by-passes the NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH so make sure it is in PARK or in neutral if a stick.

 

I think i have the ground on the points in the distributer, please see the photo.
I know that a test light on the negative of the coil should blink when i engage the starter, but it does not.
Any help is appreciated.

 

Those points look Way the Hell out of adjustment in that photo. The point shoe is on the Flat of the cam lobe and are jacked all the way open. You're not going to get any Spark that way no matter how you have things wired up. Set your gap with the point shoe on the tip of one of the 8n cam lobes.

 

Good catch, Wizard. Glaring and you are the only one to notice. Those things will never close as adjusted.

Ben

 

We are losing touch with the Old information due to the New (1970's) electronic ignition systems. Heck, even I didn't see it the first time I looked. They gotta make contact to make Spark.

 

Yes i know the points are out, I had them adjusted to .17 on the high lobe of the cam then i was playing around with the points and did not put them back before the picture. I did put them back to .17 and i changed the coil, but still the same issue. I cannot get the points to snap at all. Somehow i knew, as i was posting the picture that i would get "caught"

 

The coil runs to earth when the points are closed. Put a multimeter between earth and the coil negative (with the wire disconnected from coil) and open the points. Connectivity with the points open means something is grounding out.

Chris

 

Well, here's a far-fetched thought. Being I'm not there to actually see what you have and going by the one and only photo posted of anything related to the actual Motor at hand. It looks like everything around that Dist is extremely Rusty and Crusty. The Dist housing is aluminum and shows corrosion. It is clamped and for the most part Grounded by the hold down clamp. If the housing and clamp are as crusty as what I see surrounding the Dist and corrosion has grown between those 2 items, you could simply have a Ground issue stopping the complete circuit so no Fire through the points contacts. Something to look into there. Now, I'm assuming the actual points contacts are clean and not in the same corrosion condition.

 

Take a test light with a pointy end. Ground the alligator clip. Turn on the ignition. Make sure the points are closed. With the pointy end of the test light, touch the metal arm of the points ONLY, and open the points. It should have no light with the points closed, and light when you open the points.
If the tip is touching any other metal bit and grounding, it won't light up. If it doesn't light and you aren't grounding the tip, you have a path to ground somewhere along the circuit between the coil - post and the points.
https://www.harborfreight.com/612v-circuit-tester-with-5-ft-lead-63603.html

 

Yes it should blink, but you never told us if the light is lighted or not when your test light is on the negative side of the coil.

1. Light should be lit when on positive side of coil.
2. Light should be lit on negative side of coil when points are OPEN.
3. Light should go out when on negative side of coil and points are CLOSED.
4. If light does not go out when points are closed you have a broken wire somewhere between coil and points, OR your points are not making good contact.
5. If light is lit when points are open you have a short in the wiring between coil and points.
5a. A shorted condenser could also cause this. A simple test is to
disconnect the condenser.

 

^^^
Number 5a. I have a friend who still has points. We had a terrible time getting a condenser that would last longer than a few minutes. He fixed it, though. he sold the car. The discussion of new old stock points has happened before. Good luck with your project.