One thing I found out. The flat cap uses a smaller register than the standard cap. The flat cap uses flathead ford cap and rotor. With some careful machining you could put the ford cap on the standard Mallory distributior, or even a stock stude dizzy.
They did put them in boats but they were used for anchors. Had to say that before someone else did. The mid 50s to early 60s Chevy & Stude Delco caps are the same. The next larger (newer) ones are too.
So in theory a cap for a mid 50’s Chevy should fit a mid 50’s stude. And so a flat set up for that chevy would fit the stude. that seems like a redundant thing to ask but if that’s correct a search for chevy parts is always a million times more fruitful than Studebaker
Yes they are the same Delco for Delco. If your Stude has a Prestolite then same vintage Plymouth/Dodge.
Cool! did some parts swapping with @redzula yesterday and put these fun ones on him while he was here. Thought you guys would get a kick out of them.
Always good to catch up @Tim. My wife (the beauty and the beast fan) agreed that the valve guy had a Lumiere feel to him. You get those engine stands modified yet?
Well came home from work to a package from Tyler on my mail table! water pump, water pump pulley, a straight up water neck/ thermostat housing and a good clean distibutor ! Hot Dang! No ones convincing me Santa’s not a hot rodder now! thinking I’ll buy one of those gear reduction starters in the spring and hopefully around that time I’ll have the motor and trans mounted in the chassis and @Austin kays and I can lite it off!
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-cad-powered-1934-ford-5-window-project.1296247/page-5#post-15094799 Flamed a bone slicked up this little denso alternator mount for his 34. With my engine raised up this might just work for me as well. Time to go peek and see how close a caddy and stude are in this spot
I'm rooting for you all...it's going to be an exciting year...Your virtual friendship is motivating fellas...
If it helps I see my in real life friends on the hamb more than in person lol. Ok so caddy and stude. Similar gap but the hole he’s using for the top mount doesn’t exist. Is running the slotted mount/ bar off a timing cover bolt a good idea or no? just chewing on some mount ideas now that it seems a spot is available. Wonder if both mounts could be off the water pump bolts. I’ll have to get a denso alternator to hold up and see
You could run a plate using those two bolts where that pipe attaches to the head with a stand off for the pivot and a slotted adjust from the cover or lower bolt in the region...certainly doable...the pivot bracket could utilize the head bolt in the corner there too giving three attach points... Is that a strut from the lower bolt of pipe to head?
Stogy I think this may answer you questions. I think all of which your seeing is attached to the water pump/ water crossover and is shown a little bit here as “assumed stock” im going to pull the pipe out of the cross over and use it for a temp gauge sensor location as the stock location in the back of the drivers passenger head is very much in the way. Or about to be anyways
Actually I’m not sure I under stand what you were asking @Stogy now that I re read it a few times but I like the mount idea. I’m also seeing a line where the water pump bolts into the block. Is that the head and block meeting? Would be wild to have a totally split water passage that big. I’ll have to find a photo of a Studebaker head off the motor and take a look. edit. Just a casting line.
Pics help I know...this is an all in one...you could ditch the lower bracket and run an arm with a slot from the lower area as I was proposing first but I thought this might do as well...
That’s pretty much what I had pictured when you described it. Great rendering! Well thought out design as well, I’m gonna have to go back and look at it a few more times.
2024 garage “resolutions” Get the 46 running right and fixed. Slot it into steady rotation. Get the model A running and rolling in time to take it completely apart. Get the 32’ rails welded together, front and rear axles brakes and springs so I can roll it around. Continue tooling up the garage and maybe find a spot for a welding table. Seems about as optimistic as always. Wanted to type it out so I can check back in a year. Here’s to a productive year
My new year goals for outside are the same ones I had last year and didn't get done....clean and organize the shop and try to keep more than 0 cars running at a time. LOL Since I just moved the Chevy over into "time out" to finish the fender repair and paint in time for Starbird's show in Feb, I'm already going backwards. Ha
@dumprat if it makes you feel any better it took me three days to get it that clean. I do generally try to keep the shop very clean though. Probably decades of having to be clean at work just becoming muscle memory.
@Tim I used to run a helicopter overhaul machine shop. Extremely clean. In the five years since I have regressed to my former filthy self….
That looks like a winner to me.... Could also use stud for the WP there so if you ever needed to take it off you wouldn't have to loosen the connection of WP to block. That would really be more of a concern if you used that bolt for a slotted arm mount that needed occasional adjustments amd would need to loosen the pivot bolt to adjust but still a good idea in my mind.
Id you decide on a one wire alternator to use? im thinking I’ll run an as cast one wire alternator. The finish should blend right in and hide in plane sight. If it really bothers me I’ll pay four times as much for the power gen and it should fit the same space. I also like the idea of being to find a one wire alternator on the road easily enough if I had to. View attachment 5917783 Another shot because why not[/QUOTE]
I do like the idea of it being easy to find one on the road at this point I’d think a 90’s Suzuki denzo would be easy to find as a one wire but I’ll mock up a gm alternator in the space and see if it fits for grins when I get back to it.
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