Projects 34 Boost Coupe

First thread and build earlier than 64. Been lurking around here a while lots of great builds here I am learning from. You guys pushed me to pick up an all metal 34 ford coupe.

Not 100% sure what I want to do with the build but going to start stripping it down and plan on documenting the build.

Got a blown and blueprinted 383 with an 871 going in it. Over kill on the blower I know but that's what I have, it may change later.

We'll be going down to the frame and all new parts. Thinking about bare metal on the body.

Currently a 8.5 rear end swapping for a 9".

The split wishbone which I have not found info on yet maybe someone here knows what front end is in this car. The axle is behind the leaf. Death wobbles at 40 not fun.

I'll post some pics of the front end.

Ordered most of the front end parts going leaf over axle and ditching that R&P for a Vega box from borgeson with cross steer. New willwoods all around currently doesn't have much for brakes.

Going to attempt a 3" chop possibly I can put some ok tig dimes down.

Lots to do just getting started and a lot to do before the power plant install.

Probably 100 questions along the way.

Thanks for stopping by

 

Welcome aboard , But honestly the chassis looks pretty rough... I would build a new one.

 

It's pretty beat for sure I was thinking about going chassis up not a bad call. I am contemplating it. Definitely going to grind everything down and see what I have to work with first.

 

Welcome Op ,,,
Going to be neat cool build,
Box that frame add more supports,
I run blown hight Hp & toque ,
( big cubic inch ) drag 4 link on 32 frame,
Go back and change some of your details there are some words mention in the thread , and the whole thread will be deleted!!!!
There will be complaints!!!
I am Not One Of

Pic of EFI & E85!!

 

Looks to be a '46-'48 front axle.

Dave

 

The front axle is a ‘46-‘47, ‘48 was the same but had a hole machined in it between the perch and king pin holes for a shock to be bolted on. Those are some caliper brackets(!) but the calipers have me wondering, where are the bolts that they slide on?

Caliper bolt^ Maybe I overlooked them but I don’t see them. The bleeder valves appear to be mounted toward the bottom too, how does the brake pedal feel?
The frame is scratch built from 2 x 3 rectangular tube and the split wishbone mounts look stout but the rod ends look to have a lot of thread showing making them kinda sketchy. You have already mentioned wanting a Borgeson steering box, good choice, R&P never works well with a straight axle.
Bottom line? Honestly I think the engine is overkill for the bones of the project. I hate to sound harsh but I want you to study hot rods a LOT and build a safe car.

 

Thanks man

 

Thank you Dave

 

It's a mess for sure to be honest IDK on the bolts I'll have to pull the front rims off and look around.

The brakes are horrible I bled and put a new MC in but rotors and pads are shot.

It's all being replaced it's super sketchy to drive at this point

I agree with you 100% it's sketchy for sure but the engine will probably stick some carbs on and use the blower for another project but in the mean time have some fun with it.

 

Have been looking at frame rails who sells a correct set of frame rails to start with?

 

American Stamping sells an accurate repro 34 frame rail. It is a lot of work to weld together a frame from scratch and have it square and hold the proper dimensions. Maybe best to start with a frame already welded by a reputable shop. If you’re in the market, ask and you will get some good recommendations.

 

New chassis for a start.
Bottom of the body looks to have 'work.' Quality?
Suspect everything.

 

Yeah I think the bottom of this coupe is a couple inches shorter than stock.

 

Do I detect a power steering rack?

I think you should prioritise a response to this. A solid plan and vision can save a lot of wasted effort, time and money.

 

100% I think the best plan of attack is stripping the body down see what I am working with.

If it's workable it's getting a new frame. If not it's staying a rat rod and will end up on a different forum haha

I'll start a new one here after this project is done

lots of questions at this point.

Thank you guys for the input it is helping me choose a direction for this car.

 

There are a few options for frame rails and frames but I think who I would recommend would vary based on what direction you want to take and where your located. Sounds like it’s gonna be a nasty one!

 

We can make it easy on you and you still get to play here...................
Just say no to rat rods!

 

I'm with you I'd like to build it out traditional they are beautiful cars

 

Dude- you have a 34 Ford steel coupe! By all means resurrect it, but rejoice in your acquisition. You are at a place that likely has the best advice in the world on traditional hot rod building. These are precious days.

 

@X38 and @alchemy spotted some inconsistencies with the body. Note the distances between the bottom hinge and the bottom of the body. The lower reveal has been removed and the door bottom strangely modified. It also appears to be slightly channeled and the frame stretched at least 6 inches.
Still a really cool car with a lot of potential!!! I'd be happy to have it in my garage.

 

Does look a bit longer interesting. I do have a metal hood and side panels that are metal and fit like a glove. Wonder if they are custom. I'll post some pics with them on the car.

 

Mark ground or floor center of the axle to center of the front spindle,
Measure , Stock 112 inch wheel base .

 

First, develop a plan on what it is you want this to be. This forum is limited to Traditional rods (and customs) up to 1965. We will be all in on help and tips if you are building to this style. I you decide to build to a different view, just limit your questions to parts that still fit the criteria and you will be okay.
Any build will start with a solid frame. Once you have decided on your plan that should be your first step, if it's getting another stock frame or an aftermarket set of rails or full chassis. I have a strong suspicion that the entire rolling chassis you have will all be set aside, but don't do that until the plan is fully sorted.
Then you are going to want to work that body to fit the frame. The suspension, drivetrain and the rest all need to be accounted for but the body and chassis are the key.
Some projects here
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1934-3w-in-japan.1248273/
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/a-long-time-coming.1297753
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/curbspeed-coupe-holy-hell-10-4-2020.542263/
There is also an amazing Dark Green 5 window I can't scare up at the moment, and a White drag car over in England. Both are well documented in the builds. These are to get you motivated to select what you want the end result to be.

 

Another
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...nneled-‘34-5-window-from-new-england.1229149/

 

Stick this picture on your wall...it's the perfect blueprint to get you back to where you want to be...once you get here, then you can start talking about chopping (and there are many examples on this forum to stick on your wall at that point).

Cool project ('34 Ford coupe is one of the hotrod holy grails) that needs to go a number of steps backward before it can begin moving ahead. Oh, and welcome you've found the right place to help steer you in the right direction.

 

That's a great score and can be built into a very respectable Hot Rod.
Agree on building up a new chassis over the Winter. When it's done, strip down the body then move the shell to the new chassis and rebuild a proper and correct lower 6" for the body and get it bolted square and plumb on the chassis and get your doors gapped up. THEN you can chop it. No fair going straight to a chop first thing. Do all the tough grunt work and get your foundation set first. We've seen a lot of people that jump right into a chop on cars that don't have floors, doors not aligned, etc, then trouble spots show up later in the build that are a Bear to ever get right.

My avatar 34 5/w started w/o a floor or firewall. I fabbed all of that into place and aligned the doors, then chopped it. After installing a floor and firewall, I put 40 hours into getting the doors straight and properly gapped, etc. Both had been blown open in the past and some of the hinges were bent and needed straightening (torch and vise). These are the sort of labor hours people don't "see" on a finished car.

 

Hot hods ta hell gave you the experienced, long version of
"First restore, then modify". Sound advice.

 

Nice project, I like the boosted idea

 

This details a roadster, which has a LOT more wood. It should give you some ideas about body repair
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1933-34-ford-roadster-project.1092963/
Here is the Green 5 window I mentioned before. If you are going to shoot for the moon, this is the roadmap.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/33-5w-build-thread.1127212/

 

1st guess on the body "mods". A quick n dirty way to eliminate bodywork for rust n rot. = "sectioned" body = bragging rights, at least for/to the unknowing/uninitiated. Lack of floor (?) gives one the bragging rights for "channeled". Same gig as before. Does have an"eastern-look" to it.(esp w/the 46-48 front suspension). Depends on if you like the look. If it matters, me, not so much(eehhlich...). But the guys are right: do *not* cut that top until the floor & posts are correctly anchored to the(a) properly-squared frame. Or you will Know & become Intimately Familiar w/Misery.
Marcus...