Technical Help loosening a taillight screw

I have used the Blaster on this screw from my 39 Plymouth and it won't budge. The slot in the screw is somewhat compromised and I really don't want to put heat to this area. Help!

 

Sharp 1/16” drill bit to drill a pilot hole dead center of the screw. Work up drill sizes until you get to tap drill size for said screw. Then drill from head side with a slightly larger bit until head comes off. This will leave just the hollowed threads that you can abuse at will.

 

Left hand drill bit??? And some penetrating oil.

.bjb

 

I would use a dremil with tungstone burr to remove the protruding thread at the back

 

Clean the screw slot out straight and square with a small file, get or grind a screwdriver bit to fit as close as you can get it. Then put the bit in a drill press, use the down feed handle to put pressure on to the bit in the screw, turn the drill press pulley (BY HAND) to break the screw free.

Or find someone to tig weld a 10-32 nut to the head and back it out with a wrench. < I did that with a bunch of 6-32 screws in a windshield frame, worked great.

 

I like all the suggestions so far.
I have a set of 'jewelers files' that can easily make that slot deeper. A Dremel tool can also improve the "slot" or put a precise, centered dimple for drilling into the screw. Perhaps TIG welding a hex nut onto the screw head would allow a wrench to apply the torque needed.
Try the various ways until one of them works. I've got faith in you.

 

That is really a cool beautiful tail light, very cool detail in the glass as well.
I am curious if using the tip of a soldering iron, directed to just the head of the screw, for increments of say 3 to 4 seconds at a time, will be enough of concentrated heat, to help loosen it up?
Thanks for posting the photo.
Dennis.

 

Can you get a small ViseGrip clamped onto the exposed thread underneath and wiggle it back & forth to loosen?

 

>>I have used the Blaster on this screw from my 39 Plymouth and it won't budge.>>

Are you being patient enough? Just keep blasting away everyday for the next week or two. Or dip the tip in a small metal or glass cup filled with blaster or some other penetrating oil. Then forget it for a few days. Then try it again. Repeat if necessary.

 

Thoroughly remove the Blaster residue with carb cleaner, then use a vinegar or citric acid soak to attack the rust (submerge the entire light or stand it up in a jar or other container so just that end of the light gets the treatment). Soak it for a few days, then drill the screw out with a smaller drill bit from the back side. The direction of rotation of the drill will tend to unscrew the fastener.
Good luck!

 

Get one of those pencil torches used for soldering wires and heat the back side of the screw. While hot use you blaster so it soaks in, then heat again.

 

Seems like you got some good ideas. I think the citric acid trick would get it right out. The bezels are a pain in the ass to find so whatever route you take be careful.

 

It does not appear to be the right screw, so destroying it should be ok. I would take a dremel and grind the threads to where they go thru the housing. Blaster plus the heat from grinding should be enough to get that screw out. Plus you are not trying to get the rusty threads out.

 

Using the Dremel with a burr to remove as much of the screw shank off the rear as suggested will do two things. First it will eliminate any rusted threads exposed, and second it will heat up the screw which helps it free up. A shot of penetrant on it right after grinding the threads off the backside will suck into the threads easier while the screw is still hot too.

 

I have been in situations like this, found propane used with a low flame will give you enough heat without any destruction.

 

I have a set of these (since the mid 90s) and I'm surprised how well they work. Even if the head breaks off at least the bezel is out of the way to drill out the rest.

https://www.vampiretools.com/shop/products/pliers/vampliers-6-25-screw-extraction-pliers/

 

I have it soaking in the Blaster and will let it there for a few days. I do like the Vampire

 

trick i like will at least help . dip the screwdriver tip in valve grinding compound will make it grip real nice . works on phillips and strait ,, regardless penetrating oils are all about time as in soak wait soak wait , a lil heat would help like from a pencil torch , or a aka crack lighter but bee careful dont want to buy a lens ,, smiles for miles
fabricator john
miss you dad

 

Find someone with a Smith little torch or aka jewelers torch. They have a small tip and you can concentrate the heat right on the screw. I have used mine to remove screws and broken screws that had enough threads sticking out to get a hold of.

 

When all else fails, I make up a little lever that I can mig onto the head of the screw so that I have something to hold onto to unscrew with. The heat from welding helps too.

 

Dip it in boiling water for several seconds and repeat as necessary

 

In the past, I have tried most of these suggestion. Some work better then others, but the one below has worked the best for me.

I have been impressed with how the vinegar works as well.

I would still recommend removing as much of the crusty screw shank from below as possible, then you only have to remove the part of the screw that remains in the fastener end.

 

The age old joke about how many are needed to change a light bulb has been eclipsed by how may ways are there to get a screw loose.
I do find quite a few answers quite helpful and plan on using them on my own projects is the future.

 

Find a nut that will fit over the screw head. Carefully use a MIG to weld the screw to the inside of the nut. While still hot saturate with a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. Use the appropriate wrench or socket on the nut and unscrew it. That will come out easily. I've done similar a hundred times. Good luck!

 

Let it soak in vinegar works good with no harm

 

or use a 4 “ grinder with a thin disc…

If all else fails, drill a hole down the centre of it, then press/tap an allen key in hole and wind what is left of it out……

 

Put a very small amount of muriatic acid on the threads to eat away the rust on the backside. Otherwise, I would just drill down the center of the screw and run a tap to clean the threads out. As rusted as it is, you're never going to bust it loose. IMO

 

Wow- after all this I hope we get a progress report. That is a nice tail light.

 

2 sticks of dynamite should get that screw right out. If not some thermite should do the trick!

 

As said great suggestions...here's what I would try...get a flat hex bit no wider than that screw and they come in different thicknesses...find one that fills the slot the best with no or minimal play. If you have one real close you can die grind with sanding disc or cut back with a thin cutoff disc and dress carefully and accurately till it fills the slot with no play...don't forget these are nickel and dime stuff so grinding/sanding a bit is no big deal...

Second important step...get a couple blocks of wood and sit it flat and use screwdriver and two hands...align in slot using two hands one to turn one to press, turn counterclockwise and one of few things will happen...head may break off...screw will loosen or it may strip...then use drill off head option...

If the head breaks at least you can drill the broken screw with the trim and glass off...





Another method you can also do is push screwdriver down firmly and use a 1/4" ring wrench and turn counterclockwise...that is very effective as well especially on larger screws...

They also have those mini extractors you hit with a mallet to free stuck screws and they really do work...but that has precious glass...


....AND what @daylatedollarshort said...