I just upgraded my 40 deluxe front brakes from drums to rotors. The offset inside the OE steel wheels hits the calipers. I put 1/2 inch aluminum wheel spacers and now they clear. For safety reasons I would rather the lug nuts to tighten down further and be able to get more threads on them. Any thoughts on this? Suggestions on the wheel replacement? The rear wheels are totally fine because I left the drums on the rear axle and the lug nuts go all the way in. Thank you!
Get longer studs. Probably easier than tracking down a pair of good wheels, then cleaning them up, painting them, mounting tires on them, etc. A stud swap could be done in under an hour and is much cheaper. If you have at least 1/2" of thread engagement on a 1/2" stud then you're golden, the fastener won't be any stronger with excess threads poking out. A picture would tell us what is going on.
Keep in mind, your front track width may have gotten wider with disc swap. Now you added spacers. Suspension guys will know the words and why that may not be a good thing. Scrub?
What size and bolt pattern are we talking about? If there's no problem running the spacers (track width is fine, etc.) then just get longer studs. I've been running aluminum spacers on the front of my OT S10 for 22 years without issue. I think mine are 1/4 or 1/2".
I ran into the same problem on my old Sedan Deliv. with the 11" GM rotors/calipers. Took an angle grinder and "trimmed" offending corners on the caliper. Didn't take much...maybe took a 1/32 off.
If the interference is only 1/32", as Jack estimated above, can you replace the 1/2" spacer with a thick washer on each wheel stud?
Would not recommend washers with early Ford wheels. They will not seat correctly. A thinner solid full surface spacer would be best.
I've got Super Bell Power Stoppers on my 40 coupe with WheelSmith 15X5 inch wheels and no spacers. The stock length studs worked fine.
Modern wheels have a different shape on the backside to clear disc brakes better. Are you using 15" wheels?
Using flat spacers means the wheels are located on the studs not the hub. It also puts the lugs into a shear condition rather than just tension holding the wheels. If you use spacers try to find "hub centric" ones. You can get a set custom made on Amazon for about $40.
With the right wheels you need no spacers, adapters or longer studs. Do it right the first time without band aids. Call Wheel Smith and talk to REX, explain what you have for brakes, axle width and intended tire size. He should be able to get you on the right track? He's helped me many times.
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