Technical Cutting the top of a model a rear cross member

I’ve searched all over and can’t find any pics or info, maybe someone can help on here. I have a 40 rear and put the millwork spring perches that mount on the backing plates so I can run the leaf spring above the rear and not behind, the leaf spring I ordered is not as arched as a stock model a rear spring so it’s bottoming out before the center of the spring lines up with the center of the cross member… has anyone ever modified the rear cross member by cutting some of the top edges off to allow the member to drop down more over the spring? Also this might just lower the rear enough to do away with the frame stepping.

 

This shows my set up and how far I need the cross member to drop.

 

Do you have the welding and fabricating skill ? Of course you can modify it..Then you have to consider the floor area above it also.. How about a spacer between crossmember and spring with longer ubolts if thats what they are called ...

 

Yea I’m knowledge at cutting and welding metal… just wondering if it’s been done this way… and documented so I can study their process. .. if I can avoid stepping the frame for a few inches of lowing and achieve the same results with cutting the cross member then I’d rather go with plan A.

 

Nothings impossible, but it looks to me that there would be very little left of the crossmember by the time you've got the spring seated in there. Worse with some upward travel allowance at the outer ends. Suggest you take a card pattern of the spring and compare it to the crossmember. You could do it on the back so you can see the areas requiring clearance.

Chris

 

That’s a good idea, thanks man. I would come back with new metal and strengthen the member back up .

 

OK ,just cut out the top area of crossmember on each side past the flat and seat the spring...only cut out the top , dont touch the sides and recap both sides....looks actually easy when i started to think about it some..

 

That’s not a model a spring

 

Indeed.
I've got to say, this is a new one on me.
By the time you've totally chopped up the A crossmember to end up with something workable and safe, I think you would be better off to fab a crossmember made to suit. Right now it's a square peg in a round hole situation.
Or use a Model A or T spring.

 

Still has the issue of lowering and the spring bottoming out at the sides....No strength loss modifying it when done correctly...

 

It’s a 40’ banjo and to keep the look of a model A spring over I went with spring perches that bolt on the backing plates rather than weld on to the rear. A model A leaf spring will not fit anymore unless I go with weld on perches..

 

That spring will not fit that crossmember. And I wouldn’t be surprised if the spring doesn’t hit the top of the rear end or the shackles hit as well. I’m thinking you would need a model A spring or a model T spring to put it together the way you are trying to do it

 

It doesnt fit in there is what she said.......lol........Now thats a horse of a different color if it dont fit....

 

The reason those mounts were made was to do exactly what you’re doing, but with an A spring.

 

I don't see that working at all. Besides that spring being too long (shackles are at 45 with no load) a flat spring like that will likely bottom out on top of the banjo housing.

I wonder why you think a T or A spring won't work with those bolt on hangers. Measure the eyes; stock T perch centers are 48" and Model A is 49-1/2". We have done several with T springs on '37-'40 axles using bolt on hangers trimmed from Model A axle bells. Just have to shim the shackles and make seat for the spring since the T is narrower. If I remember right Millworks/Old Yankee has a T spring that is Model A width as another option.

 

@RICH B was quicker on the draw but I completely agree, that main leaf is too long. Heed his advice.

 

Another vote for getting the proper A spring.

 

Lots of good comments, most leading to an awful lot of unnecessary work. Get the model a spring you have in the first pic and take it apart, carefully. Then mount the main leaf on the rear end and with some clamps, a long piece of all thread or a long enough bolt put the spring back together. To get the car down low enough to make it look good you can take some leaves out, or step the frame. This all depends what tire and wheels you are running, 15 inch wheels or 17-18’s. If you run the other flat spring you will be time and effort ahead to make a flat tube crossmember(take the model a crossmember out), with a flat plate to mount the spring to.

 

He doesn't have a Model A spring.

 

I have this same setup on my ‘29. 40 banjo. Millworks spring over adapters, but with a Model A spring pack with reverse eye main and a few leaves moved from top to bottom.
Works perfectly.

 

The high arch on model A springs is to clear the banjo. Later style springs didn't need to as they were mounted behind the axle

Your spring looks to have significantly less travel before it bottoms out. I would check this first.

 

Pretty simple . . . get the correct Model-A spring that matches the cross-member and your over-the-banjo application.

 

Have to agree with these guys. The best and easiest solution is to get a Model A or Model T spring. The spring you show in your pics is too flat and was designed to be situated behind the banjo. If situated over the banjo it is going to bottom out.

 

What they said......learn something new every day.....

 

I have the rear leaf that came with the car and it only measure out to 40”…. Are y’all stretching the main leaf out at least 4” to reach shackles?

 

Here is the clearance I have, you think this would bottom out?

 

Can I see a pic if not a big hassle?

 

The spring and clamps will hit the top of the center section. Not to mention the shackles will spread and bottom against the axle mounts.

 

Would not be surprised if the main needed stretched 4” to reach. Those packs are under tension big time that’s why they don’t have a factory pan hard bar.

also why you see guys carefully disassembling packs to get them off or using a spring spreader to take the tension off

 

Plan A- cutting the crossmember to fit the flatter spring.
Plan B- using a model A spring, and stepping the frame to get lower.
Orrrr plan C-! Mounting a spring perch off the back of the crossmember and using the 40’ behind the banjo mounts instead of over the top mounts. “Would this throw my traditional build off course “?