Will the leaf contact the nut etc. on the inside of the crossmember at full bottom out with the car fully loaded? Just thinking aloud.
I have not had any problems with bottoming out or hitting spring nuts. The bottom mounts are copies of 48 Ford mounts. These were made by Pure Hotrods,now defunct. There are used originals available. This is the setup from Vern Tardell's book. Top mounts are anchored in tubes welded into cross member. The only problem I had was slight interference with inner fender well. I used a rachet strap to check to compress to full load and to check shock length. I have driven it for 8 years now. John
This is how i did it on my 28 Tudor long time ago. Simple 90 deg bended 3/8” steel plate bolted on original bumper mounting holes + 2 extra holes drilled to rear crossmember. Axle mount made from 2x4 rectangular tubing and some boxing plates. Shock mounting about 4” down from axle center line. Shocks are from local trailer shop , length is 10” - 15”.
If you are running original model A rear end, you might think about these friction shocks. https://www.mikes-afordable.com/product/A18015F.html Those are made by me and sold in US by Mikes Afordable. They are straight bolt on to model A frame, but they are designed for speedsters. On your high boy you need to shim the rear shocks little outwards to prevent hitting to inner fenders, like a guy did to his roadster here in Finland.
I'm running a '39 rear-end mated to a '39 trans and a '52 flatty. I did consider friction, and those are nice!
The good thing about friction shocks is that if you're going to rely on two pieces of leather to dampen the suspension, location doesn't really matter.
That is why i use friction disc made some kind of fabric (by Offenhauser). And remember those are adjustable, something you can't get with cheap tube shocks! Seriously, those are more for looks than performance: But by feedback from guys who had run them, they really works too.
Lots of vintage motorcycles used friction shocks, with special friction discs. I imagine it won't be hard to source those. But, lever-action hydraulic shocks work better...
Cheap tube shocks, no. But there are adjustable tube shocks on the market and adjusting them "tighter" doesn't put them in a bind like a friction shock.
Mean while you have a guy like me with 10 years and 25k miles on Bluetooth shocks. Not saying it's right. It just is.
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