Over the weekend I fabricated both my pedal mount and master mount on my '29 build which has lead to some brake questions. 1) Using '39 drum brakes all around, do I need a proportion valve? Usin '65ish mustang master for all drum set up. 2) Any recommendations for parking brake cables? I'll be using the stock model a lever. And some photos for your entertainment.
Your master cylinder is '67ish or later, and may contain the necessary residual valves behind the tube seats-you'll have to check. No proportioning valve. I recommend Lokar for the park cables. I'm using them on my '32 with a Model A handle.
I would question the need for a proportion valve but I would install residual pressure valves since the M/C is lower than the wheel cylinders. Anyway, I always do.
Yes. Residual pressure valves are especially important for under floor and seldom driven vehicles or after short term storage. Worth the small cost and installation effort.
Like everyone said no prop valve, just res valves. If the master cylinder doesn't have them inside I would use SSBC valves 10 psi each. On my '28 I went with stock brake cable from a 40s car (loops side to side) and if it's too long you can get a kit to replace the ball end at the regular parts store. The front cable is from a stock car truck with a stud spot welded to the end. Here's the only pics I can get right now. I'm using a side handle, like an early '28. The idea is the same with yours. I used a coupling nut and welded a stud in it and that went to the stock 40s stuff. Dorman 21119 to make everything work together:
My 48 with a 58 C10 master cylinder is a prime example of why you need the residual valves. The brakes worked fine when I was driving it every day but when I bought a daily driver rig to drive to work and let it sit for lengths of time I would have to bleed the brakes because the weak springs in the residual/check valves in the master cylinder wouldn't hold pressure for two or three weeks at a time. One thing I see and don't see on yours, with that much distance between the pedal and master cylinder you are going to need a super stout push rod. A stick of 3/8 steel rod isn't going to handle it as it will bend, Again My experience as I had to make a much stouter pushrod for my rig.
Noted! ...and yes the pushrod is on my bench being made. What did you end up going with as an improvement?
If the Mustang MC is for drum brakes, the residual check valve is included. It's the perforated top, hex bottom part to the left of the bellows below.
On the push rod, I made a setup on my '47 in 2009 that's still working fine today. Mount: Aftermarket push rod that the stock ends will fit. You might have to cut and re thread or bore to fit:
Lockheed brakes like 1-1/16" bore master cylinders. They also like 1/4" brake lines like Henry used. Repo '40 park brake cable with '40 equalizer and yoke up front suits the Lockheed plates; just need to shorten it a bit and also deal with the incorrect length springs.
The RESIDUAL VALVE you are showing is from a SGL RESERVOIR MC. IF the MC is a factory original dual reservoir DRUM/DRUM, the RESIDUAL VALVE(S) will be within the MC outlet ports. If an aftermarket MC (most likely CHI-COM SLOPPY COPY), it will not likely include RPVs' as FORD got away from them in the early seventies and went with wheel cylinder cup expanders.
For a long M/C push rod; I used a piece of 5/8" x .156 wall DOM tube tapped 3/8-24 on each end with a '40 eye on the pedal end and a short 3/8" GR8 bolt with the head cut off and the end rounded for the M/C end.
Pushrod length options: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Master-Cylinder-Pushrod-Inch/dp/B075NPDNKN https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal-Master-Cylinder-Pushrod-8-5-8-Long,9330.html
I'm using the AMC/Jeep master on mine as it points the brake lines towards the frame rail. Here's the build if you want to look, I'm trying to use as much factory parts as I can (different years and brands). https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/automotive-a-d-d-the-28-tudor.753531/
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