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Projects 1931 AV8 Roadster Subassembly Build

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by So Cal Brian B, Feb 4, 2021.

  1. I had an idea of how I wanted to mount the old Guide headlights that I found to the front of the car. I took a headlight bar and cut the ends off and tack welded them together and clamped them to the car. Here is where I started.


    I bolted on the headlights and tried to get an idea of how they will look. I will have the F1 shock mounts shortened so I should be able to move them back a bit more if necessary.

    Please give me your honest opinions of how they look or if I need to move them up, down, back or forward. Thanks!!

     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2023
    Outback, winduptoy, brEad and 6 others like this.
  2. Sorry for the update dump but I wanted to get caught up. Now you are up to speed with where I am. I am excited as I can see light at the end of the tunnel. I need to put the body back on and get my steering finalized so I can wrap up the steering.

    After that will be final pedal placement. I believe that after that I can blow everything apart and start to paint everything.

    Brake plumbing and wiring (not easy tasks) and then I may have a running and driving car. New goal is the LA Roadster Show attendance with the car. Perhaps I can make this deadline. It's been a long and fun journey and I can't wait to hear it run and feel it run down the road. Now I am getting ahead of myself.

    Thanks for following the thread and for all of the contributors that have helped me along my journey.

    So Cal Brian B
     
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  3. Outback
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,409

    Outback
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NE Vic

    I took a similar approach to the head lights on my A. I figured that I was happy with where they lay as that is what many early Rodders would have done & not fettled it too much.
     
    So Cal Brian B likes this.
  4. Thank you Outback for the insight. I think I like them as they sit. I have a bit of time to come back to them before I make a final decision.
     
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  5. ModelAMitch
    Joined: Jul 8, 2022
    Posts: 288

    ModelAMitch
    Member

    Hey Brian, awesome car. I've enjoyed following your build, looking forward to the finished product and seeing it roll down the road. When the time comes you need to post a video so we can hear what that thing sounds like!
    As for the headlights, I think they look great. They could maybe be a tiny bit lower.. but maybe not necessary because I know youve got lots more work to do.
    Keep it up and good luck.
     
    So Cal Brian B likes this.
  6. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 20,326

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Looks great. Headlights are a finicky thing. I know a few friends who have cars that in a photo the placement looks askew but in person they couldn’t be more right. It’s a stand far back and look, then up close and look and then think on it sort of thing but they look good from
    Here
     
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  7. Thank you so much for the kind words ModelAMitch!! I can't wait to hear this run and drive it. Good call on the video of the first start up and drive. I may forget that part due to the excitement of having it move under its own power.

    I plan to play with the headlights a bit more. I like your idea of trying them a little lower. I will snap a few pictures a compare my options.

    Thanks again for the encouragement! I appreciate it.

    Tim,

    Good call on looking at the headlights from different angles. Its hard to know how they will look with the body on and the rest of the car in place. I may wait until I get the body back on before making any more changes. I may try them a bit lower as ModelAMitch suggest.

    Thanks for the input. I appreciate it!!

    Brian
     
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  8. Another question for the group. I removed some of the rear springs in my pack and as the car sits I have about 2 degrees of angle. It's hard to get a side look with the frame shoved into the garage. I'm blessed with a house with a phenomenal view but it comes at a cost of no flat areas other than inside the garage. I would love to roll it outside but it will end up at the bottom of the hill in a pile and there is nowhere to get a side view of it from a flat area.

    Is 2 degrees enough rake from the groups experience or do I put the three springs back in that I took out? I am using a reverse eye, Model T spring pack from Millworks Hotrod.

    Thanks,

    Brian
     
  9. hfh
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 512

    hfh
    Member
    from Western MA

    9D6D057D-1D78-4AB4-921F-994209D5696F.jpeg C9D02283-64DF-4E21-9EFB-289545624DFC.jpeg I agree that you need to be farther along with your project before you commit to a final placement of headlights. These quick and dirty pieces of wood allow for quick placement adjustments. Easy to raise and lower, adjust distance from grille and forward and back.
     
  10. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,715

    alchemy
    Member

    Why did you run the tie rod over the wishbones when it looks like you could go under? You'd have more clearance from hitting the crossmember.

    How about using the shock mounts as the uprights for the headlight bar? It would strengthen the shock mounts, and clean up clutter.
     
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  11. hfh,

    Also, not sure if I will run the '32 or the '30 grill so that may determine where the lights look best as well. I will wait until I get further along before I commit. Good call!!

    Great idea on the wooden pieces!! Gives you many options to look at and determine which placement looks best.

    Thanks for the input,

    Brian

    alchemy,

    Good point on the tie rod. I guess I was looking at most builds and they tended to run them above the wishbone for more clearance under the car. I have plenty of clearance the way it sits. I even jumped up and down on the front end to make sure I didn't have any clearance issues.

    I may have to explore the shock/headlight bar mount idea. Less is more sometimes and thanks for the suggestions.

    Brian
     
  12. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 20,326

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    2 deg isn’t bad. But if you’ve e no body on it tweaking it now would be ******* in the wind as they say
     
    So Cal Brian B likes this.
  13. j ripper
    Joined: Aug 2, 2006
    Posts: 864

    j ripper
    Member
    from napa ca.

    I wouldn’t fret too much on rake right now. Get the car ***embled and operating. You’re gonna play with spring leaves at least 3 times after! :)
     
  14. Tim,

    Good call. I imagine it will level out to almost flat when I put the body on.

    Thanks,

    Brian

    j ripper,

    Sound advice. It's just so much easier to swap springs without a body on it. I have three more springs to play with if needed.

    Thanks,

    Brian
     
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  15. Last edited: Jan 20, 2024
  16. I tried very hard to keep the original seat setup but finally accepted the fact that I would never be comfortable for even short distances with the original seat. I'm 6'4" tall and around 215 lbs.

    I drilled out the rivets and removed the seat package and floor sections. I took all of the metal pieces along with the seat and the entire matching interior to the LA Roadster Show. I sold it cheap to a very happy fellow hotrodder who was going to use it in his project.

    I purchased a Glide Engineering seat and it appears it will lower me in the car and get me much further back from the dash.
     
  17. When I had the entire floor out I discovered that the center cross floor piece was rusty and very flimsy. It had rusted away and definitely needed replaced.
    I drilled out the rivets and removed the old piece. I ordered a new one and feel much better at the thickness and the weight of the new one.
    I wanted to be able to bolt new floor sections in between the rear two rails. I fabricated up a tool to make a dimple in the cross rails and welded in cinch nuts in order to bolt in the new wooden floor sections.

    My homemade tool that I used in my press to make the dimples in the cross rails.
    The new cross rail with the dimples and cinch nuts installed.

    I ended up welding in the new cross rail, cleaned up the entire floor, primed and painted everything.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2024
  18. For some reason I was hesitant to cut up my original gas tank. I thought I might keep it whole even though I plan to use an oval Model T tank mounted in the trunk. I finally bit the bullet and cut into the tank. I was quite surprised at just how rusty it was. So glad I cut into it. It's much lighter now and easier to install and pull out as I work on the car. I actually ran the car using fuel through the original tank. I wonder now how it even ran.
    I wire brushed the tank, painted it with POR using a brush and then sprayed it with ch***is black. Hopefully I stopped any remaining rust from forming.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2024
  19. Just last weekend I determined that I needed to take out a little over 2" from the front shock mount. I used my old trusty Craftsman band saw to make the cuts. I beveled the pieces, welded them together and dressed them up. I may have to bend them out a little at the top but like how they turned out. I will blast and paint them. I still need to weld a lug nut to my front axle where the bottom of the shock attaches.
     
  20. LSGUN
    Joined: May 26, 2007
    Posts: 1,389

    LSGUN
    Member
    from TX

    Nice job, what headers are you running with the F1 box?
     
    So Cal Brian B likes this.
  21. Outback
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,409

    Outback
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NE Vic

    Nice work, glad to see you moving forward here.
    You've gotta be somewhat comfortable driving these cars, otherwise you'll avoid it & put it on a trailer....
     
    So Cal Brian B likes this.
  22. Thank you LSGUN! I am using a set of headers purchased from Vern Tardel.

    Thanks Outback! I'm plugging away on it and can't wait to have it move under its own power. I struggled with keeping the interior more original but came to the conclusion that if I can't drive it then what's the point of building it.
     
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  23. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,253

    Jeff34
    Member

    Great stuff! Thanks for sharing.
     
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  24. Thank you Jeff34!! Still plugging away!!
     
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  25. J.Ukrop
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 3,651

    J.Ukrop
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Love the shock mounts. I had to do the same with mine. Inspiring work on the floor!
     
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  26. Thanks Joey!! Happy New Year!! Pushing to finally finish this project. Love how yours is turning out. I am watching closely.
     
  27. It's a great build thread with a lot of details. Please keep posting all the details and updates.
     
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  28. Thank you Hot Rod Ron! I appreciate the kind words!!

    I sometimes wonder if it’s worth posting, but I do my best to do***ent the progress. I’ve been helped so much with other posts on the forum so I am trying to give back a little.

    Stay tuned for more updates coming soon!!

    Brian
     
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  29. cederholm
    Joined: May 6, 2006
    Posts: 1,754

    cederholm
    Member

    Awesome build! ...and timely too as you and I are more or less is the same place in our projects. I'll be following along!

    Carl
     
    So Cal Brian B likes this.
  30. Thank you Carl!! I appreciate the kind words. I’ve been following your build as well. Let’s finish these up and enjoy driving them.

    Thanks,

    Brian
     
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