Putting a small block into one of these is more complicated than a newer six. The steering gear box is in the way of the exhaust manifold on the left side with a small block.
Cool truck. I put a T5 in my 51 pickup behind a 235 (216 had already been swapped out when I got it), and I couldn't be happier. But I would take the time to diagnose the 216 and get it running right (without spending much) before deciding whether to do an engine swap. Either way, enjoy your ride!
A '54 engine is the perfect replacement for a 216, as it's the last year with the early style water pump and will offer no clearance problems, but will definitely have aluminum pistons, insert bearings, and full pressure oiling.
Thank you. So if I do get the 216 running well I can put a t5 behind it and after I get the 235 rebuilt could just swap motors and keep the exact t5 setup? Also, which t5? I hear an s10 is a good donor??
I would imagine the 216 & 235 would have the same bell housing, etc to mount the T5, but I have not put a T5 on a 216. Others would know the answer for this better than I. My T5 was from an mid 80s Camaro, but I removed and swapped in an S10 tailshaft to get the shifter in the forward position. T5s are getting harder to come by for a decent price, but they are out there if you keep your eyes open. Here is a link to my build thread - it may have some useful information: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/51-chevy-3100-project.672888/page-3
The 216,235, 261 Chevrolet and GMC 228, 236, 248, 256, 270 & 302 have the same engine block to bell housing bolt pattern. All of the truck bell housings have the later 55-up transmission bolt spacing and pattern even though they were manufactured in the late 40’s. Depending on which transmission the front bearing plate the throw out bearing rides on can be a larger diameter. The 55-62 Chevrolet car 235 bellhousing also has this pattern. I use this bell housing behind a 302 and use a New Richmond 4 speed. The 216 and 235 CAR up thru 1954 bellhousing whether splash or full pressure have the smaller transmission pattern not compatible with 55-up car or truck transmissions.
I, too, as a young buck would first thing yank out a six to install me some V8 kick-***-ery. But as I reached a more mature status and wanted something a bit different went in reverse. My 261 build was a 4" bore and stroke, a ported and polished head along with a few other goodies. I love it and it has some real kick-***-ery. But if money is an issue just the machine work for it would have bought a couple 350 crate motors. It's all about you, your vision, and cir***stances, I love it and an glad you posted your build here. Keep on Truckin! Tim
Gee, I guess my Dad was right when he told me how much he appreciated a fine six. 14 year old me thought he lost his mind. Don’t get me wrong, I still LOVE the Small Block Chevrolet, but my years of working on heavy duty trucks has honed my appreciation and adoration of the often maligned six. Don’t tell Dad, but I still stand by my belief the 327 Corvette in “Dead Man’s Curve” would have eaten the Jaguar for lunch.
HMMMM if your going to do a lot with the truck and dont want to spend a lot on 6cylinder up grades id consider a V8 unless you want the cool i have a hot 6 . if your not ging to do much to the 6 Id get te biggest one you can find that is in best shape. I went through this with a 50 chevy car years back in the end stuck a SBC in it . the 6 was cool but the V* made it a better all around car and I wanted to drive it a lot. I had a 2 2 barrels on a 235 in the 6 with a cam and header and sure it was cool and ran good good but the 375 hP V8 While noring to look at made it a much better car from a use stand point. It about what you want in the end and how you will actually use it . That 92 HP on a good day stock will get old and while a 5 speed with OD will help you need the torque and HO to pull a taller gear especially on a interstate
If you decide to just put a T5 behind your 216, the stock bellhousing will work with an adapter. I bought mind from Hot Rod Works. You will also need to cut off some of the shaft collar. I would need to check my notes but I think I had to take off an inch and 7/8. Stock pressure plate will work but you'll need to match the clutch to your T5 shaft. Let me know if you need more info.
When hooking up the t-5 there’s a lot of info here. if using the s10 version the Astro van had the largest stock clutch disc that I’m aware of
Played with it more today. Swapped cylinder 4 (the dead one) sprk plug and wire with #5 and no change. Pull #4 wire and runs the same. I will pop the valve cover this weekend and hopefully find a stuck valve I can smack loose. Also, I took the neg cable off the frame and bolted it to the same spot as the ground strap on the bell housing, what a difference she spins over waaaay better now. Also cleaned all ground points with a wire wheel on a drill. Much better. Then discovered I pinched the oil filter housing gasket as it was puking oil from the cap.....oops. Also pulled the shifter out. Looked down inside and don't see a smoking gun. There's a pin on the right side sticking out but determined it's the spring pin for going into reverse. I think I will pull the removable floorboard and pull the whole top plate off the trans and see if I can figure it out. But she will not go into 3rd or 4th, period. Stays in the neutral gate except for 1,2, and reverse.
As aforementioned the 235 is a much better engine. Personally, a 235 with a single Rochester, a split manifold and a s-10 t-5 is the recipe for a great driver. also this may have been mentioned already but just incase, when you shorten the input shaft extend your splines a bit too. I made that mistake once and didn’t do that so the first time I pushed in the clutch in it got stuck on the shaft.
Extend splines- can you elaborate on that a bit? Not sure how I could without a machine shop? Sorry, new guy here haha.
If a valve is stuck, I have done several and all loosened up. Get some light oil sprayed down around valve stem at guide.....light taps with br*** hammer on valve......repeat as needed over several days. Also....on any 6v system like this......0 or 00 cables with perfect connections and grounds and shortest cables possible. Has worked wonders on my 6v tractors and 6v Willys Jeep. Have fun
Nothing wrong with a good old 216, but a 235 disguised to fool most of the people most of the time as a 216 can be a good choice too. Especially with a few accessories!
I fixed the miss! Pulled the valve cover and ran the engine. Intake pushrod on the dead cylinder was spinning like a top. Like 5 times faster than any of the others. Shut engine down and turned over by hand until that valve fully closed and the exhaust valve was just starting to open. I couldn't spin the pushrod by hand so I backed the tappet off a bit until the pushrod would freely spin with my fingers. Fired it back up and boom....I have a 6 cylinder again! This weekend I will properly adjust all the valves. Pretty happy with myself tonight! Hopefully it wasn't due to losing a valve seat haha. I guess if it does it again I'll know.
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