On my left front cowl panel immediately adjacent the door, I scratched the truck. I polished through the clear so I figured I would just scuff it with 800 and re-apply clear to cover it. I didn't work. I need to add base coat to the area and then re-clear. So the question, how long before I can shoot Lumabase over that clear I put on today? The activated clear dried quickly. I didn't apply much because I realized it was not going to cover. This is a weird issue, and I can't google a good answer. Can I add base today? And re-clear. Do I wait 24 hours? I will scuff it back down again before applying base to make sure I have adhesion. DO you think if it is dry enough to scuff it is dry enough to re-color coat?
I'd wait 24 hrs, depending on Temps. Then I would come back and wet sand it down, I'd go down to your original paint and work from there. I'd do this to keep the paint layers lower and thin to keep from having any other problems. Also too to try and remove any of the newer paint to keep from having curing or solvent pop problems with another new base on top. ...
If I take it that far would you use 400? There is 2-3 coats of clear on there. I wet sanded the clear back off that I applied today with 800. This is the area we are talking about. It is difficult to sand near the bottom of the cowl.
Most clear coats provide the information of what is required for repair/rework on the TDS. What does the TDS say?
I would check to see what the paint manufacturer recommends. I've seen some recommend 400 and others 600. ...
I'm going to assume you're painting (or at least clearing) the whole area shown. What you ran into was cleared sanded material that didn't "melt out" and flow into what you have. That's my overview. What to do is partially or marginally complicated. Waterborne base or std? Either way, the as-sprayed color need to exist 1st since it didn't melt. The clear you added? Nice fresh base sure to provide both a mechanical and chemical bond. I'd block it out to 1000 myself and ease the color and clear on in small doses, especially given the logistic challenges of the area. Let's review, sand it smooth, color it up to satisfaction, clear within a reasonable time like 30 min max. Get the tape off asap and let it cure. The longer the better, I'd wait 72hrs. Retape and finish it off. Why wait so long to buff? It might come out slick enuff it just needs a lick n a promise. Good luck, show us how you made out Oh yeah, I'd still like to know what matl is involved. I might refine my input. Quick edit, you're painting tomorrow? Sand it now so it purges out 100% by tomorrow.
I’d check out the TDS. Temp is important In the collision world I’ve seen boo boos fixed that day. Now this is usually clear that has been baked.
I referred to the sheets but they talk about re-coating clear, not putting color back over it. I am sanded. I didn't take the tape off. I will go back out and do so ASAP. This is the spot with the fresh clear over it this morning. I am pointing to it in the reflection. This is it after sanding with 600 and 800. The materials are Lumabase base coat and Lumabase 2:1 clear with 8080 reducer. I sanded down to 3000 and then buffed with wool bonnet on the highspeed, then carbon fibre bonnet on a smaller buffer. I have more base color and will reapply in the morning after bring my garage temp up. Then clear coat. I am using my jamb gun due to the small area. I didn't wait to buff, I screwed this spot up a year ago and put a magnet over it so no one would know what a dumbshit I am. I knew it would take some re-shooting but I waited too far into winter and it has been too cold here to think about painting. Pin striping appointment is in 30 days and we are supposed to get back into the 20's next week. I chose today to get after the repair as it was 62 out and that means I can get nearly 80 in the shop. Perfect for my mid temp reducer. I am air drying and not force drying. I know right?
@anthony myrick I am confused on that last bullet point. Is it saying that I have to wait 16 hours to clear over the base I am spraying in the morning. I planned on clearing it an hour or so after color coat. Or it referring to clearing over clear?
The 16 to 72 hours is the “open” time for the clear. No scuffing needed if applying clear over clear. I’d ignore that The important part is the reapplying color time. Suggests a faster reducer if the clear is sanded through. We had lifting issues for some clears years ago if you cut through it. My experience would be to choke the gun down a bit and do very light coats of color. Wetting it up could cause a lift on the edge. If that happens, let the lift area flash then wet sand it. Then lightly apply the base
Ah, the good old days of acrylic lacquer. Clear was only used over metallics and if you buffed through a quick scuff with 1200 wet and put a dribble of colour in the clear and spray that area.
I agree with Anthony on the procedure & I am not familiar with your particular product as I only use Tamco or Revolt these days, but you can accomplish just about anything working with paint if you remember..... Patience, Faster Reducer & Light Coats with plenty of time in between! Remember...It is not a race, take your time. God Bless Bill https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/
It's your car and decision but if it was mine, I would sand it like I was painting it the 1st time and shoot base and clear as the sheet says. You may be way better at this than me but everytime I take a short cut with paint in cold weather, it ends badly. Good luck with your project.
You say when you will bring the temperature up in your garage in the morning. Make sure the surface you are painting is up to 75 not just the ambient temp in the shop. Too many guys heat their shop and once it hits the required temp think they are ready to go when the metal usually takes quite a bit longer to warm up.
This won't help now, but several years ago a paint rep advised me to add just a little hardener to my basecoat. So all levels are activated,thereby eliminating lifting problems from "breakthrough" areas in the event of a respray
Yes, and good advice. The panel has a heater on it to make sure it is at temperature. That is interesting. I didn't break through to the color anywhere. The paper and sanding residue were clear, no black paint. I will lightly apply the color and use a faster reducer. I'll report back tomorrow.
Rule of thumb for me has always been, put the back of your hand on the panel and if it feels warm you're right to spray. Don't use your palm as that's where the oil will come from. I use the same approach with electric fences. If you use your fingers you might not get the fingers unwrapped from the live wire, if you use the back of the hand any shock will push the hand away.
I'm a PPG user all the way, and the idea to put a little hardener in color has merit. I use a cap full of DX57 to 1qt of ready to spray color. For small stuff a literal drop in the base mix, and yes you'll get no lift edges if repairs are done. What I reading here is that the clear covers over and seals what's done vs "filling in" and blending out. The remove the tape deal was after paint work. Tape can suck up all the solvents and provide a burn to existing finishes since tape glue is now "wet" with solvents. Peripheral concerns, nip em in the bud. Sounds like you have it under control. Blend the color and clear it over, a little at a time, let it purge well, less peel pinch up, less work at the final stage.
Ok, base reapplied without issues, clear back on 3 heavy coats. Color is consistent now. Still flowing out a bit in the warm shop. Little sand and polish and it should look just fine I don't do much spot work, how long do you leave it taped? I suppose an hour or so? I never thought about it before.
Once if feels "safe" where you won't bump wet paint. That 1st touch free window, that's when I peel it off painted areas.
An IR lamp (aka: heat lamp) is what I used back in the previous century to speed up the timer on paint. But not too hot. If you can rest your hand on the warm surface it should be a safe technique to walk away and let it sit.
I'm sure you know this but urethane has to above 60 degrees to catalyze so heat your shop if necessary. It looks good. I hope the paint god smiles on you. I'm sure you are excited to get pinstriped.
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