Technical 8BA Runs On "Diesels" After Engine Shut-off- Normal?

Sorry Ebbsspeed.
Ive been watching my elderly father and haven’t had a chance to get in the garage.
I will post my findings and fixes as soon as I can though. I also can’t stand run on posts!
Be Well.
Brother ED.

 

Sorry for not checking in sooner.
I’ve been taking care of my father and haven’t had time to get out in the garage.
The more I think about it though, I must have a hot wire crossed into the ignition switch because when I turn the ignition off, the engine continues to run like normal until it slows and dies like it runs out of gas.
When I wired the car, I hadn’t added in the electric pump. I did this after I finished building the tank and got it in place to ensure I had room for my original location for the pump, filter, and how to run the hard lines.
I’ll be sure to post an update as soon as I find something.
Everyone Be Well and Stay Safe!
Brother ED.

 

You say your timing is correct, but what is correct?
Retarded timing creates heat, and run-on. Fuel is not the same as the engine was designed for, so TDC or anywhere near there no longer works. As you advance the timing, rpm goes up, which allows you to close the throttle (less incoming air). I have my flatty set up for 16 BTDC at idle, 29 total. It has never run warm or dieseled, and drivability is excellent. Advance your timing at idle, let it idle for a while at full operating temp, and see if it still has a problem. A quick distributor recurve and you'll likely have your issue solved. Either that or you have a bad diode in your alternator.

 

Just an afterthought: Make sure your one wire alternator is connected directly to the battery. If it's tied in anywhere else, it could be your problem. Good luck with your project.

 

Now we're getting somewhere . . . maybe.

That's the kind of statement that makes me wonder if your engine is actually dieseling or not.

Dieseling does not sound, look, act or feel anything like running normally. The engine is literally trying to run backwards when dieseling! It sounds more like turning off the ignition is just turning off the electric fuel pump, but not the current to your ignition system.

An easy test would be to start the engine and let it warm up a bit. Then switch off the fuel pump only (or pull the fuse for the pump) but leave the ignition on. Wait and see how long it takes for the fuel to run out and stall the engine. If it takes about the same amount of time to stall out as turning off the ignition switch, then there's a problem with how the ignition wiring is hooked up.

What distributor and ignition system are you running?

 

I know you breazzed past my question regarding an electric fan. Do you run one sir?

 

Big Ed, I see you're having family issues, but I had a similar issue and it came down to the coil overheating. If you're running a Ford starter relay, you should have a "ballast" resistor inline with the coil as the relay allows a full 12.5v while it's running, but the coil likes 9 to 10v while running.

So I got my ballast from NAPA and a new coil, now no hot coil.
Why? I didn't sit down to figure it out but it's possible by then the coil was beginning to fail and the points were closed enough to allow an arc.
idk.
it's one of Flathead's Life's lessons I was glad to get behind me.

 

I apologize gentlemen for not getting back sooner. In had a loss in the family and I simply checked out for a while. I shouldn't have used the term "diesel run on". It acted as you pointed out ClayMart that the key shuts the electric fuel pump off and the engine continues to run until the manifold is empty. I got under the dash with my multimeter and found the problem. Somehow, I literally got my wires crossed and the coil remained hot after the fuel pump shut off. It never drained the battery because I have a battery disconnect switch. It's always something and most of the time, it's something simple.
I appreciate all the help and guidance, but now I may have a bigger problem...
I'll post it soon.
Be Well.
Brother ED.

 

Yes sir. I run an electric fan but my problem was I had my coil tied into a buss that was constant hot because I had the buss powered from the battery and not the switch. I built the frame out of 1020 mild tubular steel and ran my wires through the tubing. When I wired the coil instead of going to the switch, I went to that buss. So, the fuel pump would shut off but the coil was still hot and the car would run until the manifold was dry.

 

That was my first thought also.