Hi. I'll start a proper thread on this, but I need some advice from other sport coupe owners. I've had a bunch of British machines, but only fell into this about a year ago. I feel like I've been missing out. I bought a banger motor at a yard sale for $100, just to have it in my garage. Met some locals, started collecting parts. Initially, I don't intend a chop. I also have no interest in putting a roof on it. What do I do with the b-pillars? I have the triangular braces that attach to the belt line. Is that enough to keep everything from rattling against the door? Should I put a center bow across to connect them? A quick search shows mostly closed cars. The ones that are open are mostly chopped. Maybe I'm worried about nothing.. Thanks
Ah. The tub I found is from a '29 business coupe. I started with a nice '29 cowl. The best doors I could find were coupe/Tudor. I would have been happy with anything, this shell was the first solid option. Plan is 4cyl, no fenders. I'm still figuring out the photo thing here. Pictures to follow. Thanks
Stock rodded https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...pe-traditional-hot-rod-on-1932-rails.1151245/ If you are going to run it without a roof, the B pillars are going to look a bit off, but the framed door windows will too. Are you trying to make it more like a Cabriolet or roadster?
I don't really know where it's going. It's a pretty solid body, I hesitate to cut it up. I did a little research. Putting the right top on it will cost more than the rest of the build, so that's out. For now, I'm going to leave it open. I'm just not sure if I need to sturdy up the b-pillars. A business coupe has arced braces that support those oval windows. I have them, but they look clumsy in place.
Well, make progress on the stuff that fits your plan, and cross the top bridge when you get there. You may run across another body or decide to cut later.
I'm undecided about chopping my Sports Coupe. But if I had what you have now and was keeping it open, I would loose the b pillars, replace the wooden lower b pillar with steel, chop the screen and doors a couple of inches and definitely fit a visor. I also would round off the rear corner of the door top, just to improve the look a bit. A x braced steel tube frame behind the seat and around it to join the b pillar would stiffen it up well. To my mind they are not well proportioned as stock, even a small chop cures that.
I've seen roadster guys build a tubular frame/skeleton that starts and ends at the latch area of the B pillar on each side and runs around below the sail panel. This helps stiffen the B pillars in the door latch area.
When I built my coupe I considered a chop, but it was already channeled about 5" so I was concerned about being too low on headroom. So I went to shows and found similar cars. One guy had my same setup, channeled but no chop. He was sitting in his car and appeared to have plenty of headroom. I asked him if I could sit in it to check for fit. He hopped out of the car. He was about 5'4" tall. I didn't chop mine. Suggestion: find cars like yours and sit in them. That will help you decide. .bjb
This brings back good memories. Yes, it did get fabric added to it. It belonged to a close running buddy and I was up to my neck in it with him through the total build. Good memories are all I have left of them both, well maybe a few more photos if I really dig hard.
P.S. With the wood bow at the B post we never had any issues with the doors latching, rattling or staying closed and it had stock latch hardware. Don't remember how much we chopped it but it is channeled also. It fit sorta Okay for a couple of 200lb 5' 10" guys. When we stopped at a crosswalk at a Red light the p***enger had to watch for the light to change. It ran a T-5 behind the Flat Motor and first gear was useless!
Personally I’d replicate the top of the jamb between the A and B pillars, and maybe add a bow between the B pillars. Should be very stiff then. Especially with the rest of the wood in the lower body replaced like it should be. Could leave the top open and have the wind blow but also roll up the windows.
There's some great inspiration here... https://www.jalopyjournal.com/?p=38735 Sport Coupes are awesome...exploit the beast for what it is...
Just a little advice: sometimes hot rodders can be snobbish. A real roadster is cool. But a cutoff wannabe roadster is not. Maybe you can live with it. Maybe you couldn’t. And you might think you could make the conversion convincing, but there will still be giveaways that the hoi polloi will spot. (I must admit that I am a snob)
Thanks for all the input. That thread is full of good stuff, the car with the yellow wheels is fantastic. As shown in the photos, the rear part of the subrail needs replaced. I have the rear panel and deck lid, both are fairly good. I was thinking of putting a cross brace in, hadn't considered a hoop around the beltline.. All good ideas. I just did some work on the spring packs and front spindles. Once the subrails are repaired, I can throw the body back on the frame and look at it. Aprons may help with the proportions. I don't want to pretend it's a roadster. Here in PA, good sheet metal is unheard of. I've had ridiculous luck shopping for this car. I think I need to show some respect.
I always thought some custom treatment would look good on the roofline to soften it out at the rear along with reshaping the rear of the door frame.
That one pist-n-broke posted with just the bows looks nice! I'd prefer it to one with a fixed roof. It could even have a snap on cover.
I wouldn't change anything on that beige car. I actually dig the top bows on the other s/c, but think it'll look too tall on an uncut body. I may try it, just to see. I have all those stamped brackets, it shouldn't be too difficult to mock up. I appreciate all the interest. I started from zero about a year back. Lots of reading and shopping. I have a friend in Somerset PA, though, who's built a bunch of great machines. I've always envied his model A. (He's on here, sorry I can't remember his i.d.) Also a great source.
I agree with you about the cost of the top, the wood kit and top kit came to about $1200 and then the cost of having the top put on but I think it was worth the cost. I never liked the coupster where they cut the tops off the doors and left the A pillars. Mine is a full fendered unchopped 30 but gives you an idea of the wood involved.
The thing that makes a sport coupe is the top....so it's worth spending some money on it. Even if you have to save up for a while.
Some 1" tube for an inner structure along with some bent sheet metal to form the top edge will support the body as an open car and also make a base for a top in the future.
Thanks Jack, it's in the Poormans Roadster Thread I shared the link too...there are many cool Sport Coupes...and yes they look pretty awesome in an Aluminum riveted removable top...
@Martinbuilt Hello, Your stage of the game is perfect for a new version of the “California Top.” Not as large as a phaeton, but at this stage of the build, everything is in place to create a new vision and a top no one has. So far… Jnaki The 1934 Phaeton was bright yellow, had custom Buick Skylark wire wheels and the stance that said “hot rod.” But, the real feature was the one of a kind top added to the custom build. From far away, it looks like a normal lowered black top that provided shade on those “out for a cruise” days. The custom one of a kind “California Top.” https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...-craft-dream-rod.1227269/page-2#post-14922313 Note: Not a convertible top, not a hardtop but secure for leaving it alone to go have a nice dinner, sight unseen. But, on those sunny days for a drive out in the country or coastal cruises, the top pops off as a one piece unit and you have an open top.. “Try it, you might like it…” or since it is a little like a top hat overall, perhaps a chopped top of varying heights is more appropriate for style... YRMV
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