Technical CE bolt in motor mount SBC in a 40 tips? Updated 12-09

I’m using a Ch***is Engineering CP-2101 bolt in motor mount kit to install my SBC in my 40 Ford.
(Yes, the one with the blown (up)flathead.). Mated to early Ford trans.
Of course, as long as I’ve had them and moved them I’ve lost the instruction sheet!
Anybody have it as a PDF?
Check with Heidi’s?


Anything that I need to know in advance to ease the pain?
Anybody else used this kit? Tim @olscrounger ?
Is “once and done” and “bolt in” just a myth?

Frame adapters sit on top of the frame rails….. Check.
Offset engine mount goes on the left side…..Check
Bolt and clamp it all together, set engine in, centered in the frame, and drill holes to match those in the frame adapters….. Check.
Looks pretty straight forward. (Don’t they all?)

Am I missing anything? Any tips?
Do any of the stock 40 frame holes match up to start with?
Holes are drilled in the bottom flange of the adapter up from the bottom?

Thanks!

 

If you are using the stock trans and mount, that will dictate the fore and aft location. You should be able to bolt a block to your trans, bolt the mount brackets to the block, add the biscuits and brackets and drill in place.

 

My CP-2126 kit for SBC in a '46 Mercury has a diagram with dimensions. Your CP-2101 kit only has this information. Since you're using the stock ******, @Marty Strode is giving you the only viable option.

 

Thanks, guys. Ya’ll are absolutely correct.
I think that I will try and borrow a bare SBC block, and do the mock up, with the trans adapter bolted up. Seems easier than wrestling with a complete engine.

 

While you are locating position with that bare block, stick a head on the right side and a distributor in it's hole; just to make sure. Wouldn't hurt to stick a short pump and fan on the front either.

 

I mocked mine up and made up a jig, since we knew all the geometry of the SBC. The jig went between the mounts to give the center-to-center spacing, 16.5" IIRC. So we had a place to start and started on the ch***is motor mount adapters. Once those were fabbed up, we dropped a bare block and oil pan in place and fine tuned the mounts and welded them up.

I did drop the distributor in. It was close to the firewall and I had to go with a small-body HEI. I made an adapter for the transmission mount.

Yours will be easier, since the transmission is set in stone. I like the idea of putting the motor mounts in place and working it backwards to the frame rails.

 

Kinda like hanging the engine off the tree limb, rolling the car up under it, eye-balling center and level and welding the mounts in? Kinda like that, huh?

 

Thanks for all the tips and suggestions.

 

The only thing not mentioned is that top bolt on the older SBC bellhousings will sometimes hit the firewall using the stock trans & torque tube. The block I used didn't have that top bolt hole drilled/tapped so it wasn't an issue but because the PO did use an older block he provided a nicely placed dent that I had to fix. I used the CE mounts and as mentioned I mocked it up and let the drivetrain determine where the mounts were placed. It turned out to be where CE said they belonged however.

 

Thanks for the tip, mine is missing that top bolt also, so one less thing to fiddle with.
I picked up a bare block today from the local machine shop, so we’re moving forward.

 

Do those not offset to the front to allow exhaust clearance around the steering box.

 

The left mount is offset to the front to get it ahead of the steering. The engine itself is still centered in the frame.

 

I've got them in my 40 standard coupe, Small Chevy points dist, Short pump, Z line Walker, 525 steering, 69/70 Chevrolet pickup right side exhaust manifold that shoots the exhaust forward, down and around the front and under the steering box. Stock firewall. Looks like it came that way from the factory.

 

Thanks!
Gary, that’s exactly what I’m doing. Same parts.

 

@RAK That’s what I’ve run into.

The Cragar adapter has the top tab, as does the engine, even though it’s not drilled and tapped.
Sure ‘nuff, hits the firewall with the CE frame adapters as far forward in the rails as possible.

So, do I take a little off the inner lower edge of the CE adapters to let everything slid forward a little,
The 41 open drive trans has a homemade flat trans support between the X-member, so it can be slotted or remade to compensate for the move forward.
OR….
Trim off the top tabs on the adapter and engine, giving enough clearance, and call it done.

Plenty of driveshaft front yoke length to take care of the move if needed.
What about clutch shaft from trans to frame pivot ball. Is that what the ball is for?

Thanks in advance!

 

My car is a torque tube (actually a Mitchell overdrive) so I didn't have a choice but it sounds like your clutch linkage alignment is going to dictate the motor mount location. If I had to decide whether to trim the mounts or adapter, I would trim the adapter. You don't need the tab at the top anyway so no harm done. I'm using a Wilcap adapter and the block deleted the top bolt and that was all I needed for clearance, no t******* required.

 

Thank you, sir!

 

The instructions that you want were in an earlier post about 2 weeks ago. CE products # 2101. I saw the post, but didn't pay attention to the date and time. .

 

Cut off the tab and gained a lot of clearance.
Too little, too late as there is a dent and skinned paint. A little touch up and it won’t show back there.

 

Bolted the bare block back in, with the CE mounts all tightened up.

I had saved a couple of 1/4” thick x 1-1/2” Diam. flat washers from who knows what. Fortunately with 1/2” i.d. holes.
Put them between the CE block mounts and the top rubber cushion.

Just need to buy two longer bolts.

I also got the 50-60’s Corvette (?) mechanical pump that is indexable, with fittings in the body rather than underneath. Carter M2468 or equivalent.


With the spacers and this pump, I now have 1/4” clearance between the pump and the front crossmember. Saving cutting , welding and painting the normally added step down in the crossmember!!
Looks like it will work!

 

Well that didn’t work! ******!!
Weight of the complete engine compressed the biscuits and took up the clearance I THOUGHT I had.
Thought about raising the engine a little more, but that lets the distributor cap hit the firewall!
Shimmed up the trans mount until the trans hit the floor, but couldn’t get enough clearance at the firewall to use the front spacers.

Shoulda, woulda, coulda. If I had only planned a little better, I could have slid the open drive 41 trans a little forward before I located the frame adapters.

Guess I could slot the frame holes for the adapters and slide engine and trans forward a little, but I’m not sure about the pivot arm alignment for the throw out shaft. But getting those mounts out without pulling the engine is a *****, and I don’t want to face that.

Guess I modify the front crossmember like everybody else does. ****** again!

 

I feel your pain! Sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

 

Why not just use an electric pump???

 

My 36 has the crossmember notched for the stock mech fuel pump. That was done 60 years ago....

I have the CE engine mounts and use a electric pump. Otherwise you need to clear up the crossmember

 

Electric pump is still a possibility. Might be less work than cutting crossmember.