Lifting from the intake manifold??

Is this ok? I have a vortec style manifold which has 8 bolts on it and I want to lift from 4 of these on an SBC with a powerglide ****** attached.

 

I've picked many a V8 by the carb base bolts, but without the trans attached.

with the trans attached it hangs too heavy in the rear.

I made a version of one of these out of s**** for free;

 

If your talking about the bolts that attach it to the heads, As long as your bolts are strong enough you should be good.

 

i've never trusted that method. what if you have an aluminum intake will the intake bolt threads be able to support that much weight? you don't want that motor in the air and it start to slip. you can really ruin the motor or worse hurt yourself. just my $.02.

 

I've lifted a bunch of motors with those motor plates and aluminum intakes, and although I was a little leary at first, I've never had a problem.

 

I think one many mistakes folks make while lifting a engine, is they just unbolt a few bolts and slide the chain through and bolt it back up. Remember to use a spacer/s under the chain so the chain sits flat (can be a stack of washers), use different grade 8 bolts that make up the length difference with the new chain and spacers. Then torque the bolts back down to specs. (to keep the threads intact)

 

If yu have an aluminum intake, DON'T!!!

I know mine has all four holes helicoiled....

carb studs are usually grade 3... you know, made out of ****ER!

Like sporty said, grade 8 buffered by washers into the intake-to-head holes....

I'd go a step further in paranoia, take the intake off, that way you can make sure you're not shoving the end o your bolt against a pushrod... I know that the 3rd holes back on an SBC will interfere like this, I know most intelligent people wouldn't attach a chain there, but its something to think about... (2nd hole in from either end is best, first bottoms out early in the head, like only 1/2" or so...

I hear that lifter is best for removing stock iron Y-block manifolds!

-J

 

FastSporty's got a good point about getting the chain up and off the mounting surface.

Do not - not - mount the chain so the chain links are holding the load at right angles to the link.

Been there, done that, dropped a built Olds about 2" onto the front crossmember of a 50 Ford when the link broke.
No one got hurt, a little paint scratched, but it coulda been a disaster.

Far as doing it with the trans on, add a third - or additional piece - of chain from hoist hook to a bellhousing bolt or other and that will balance the weight.

The gadgets with the long hand cranked screw that bolt to the engine with four pieces of chain and adjust so the engine is level or pointed down work well.

Important too that you don't pull on any mounting bolts at an angle unless they are down flush.

A 1/4" plate welded to 3/8" chain with the plate drilled for the heads accessory holes works well too.

 

I'm a walking deathtrap.

Yesterday, I put a 454 and TH400 into my truck using one of the carb plate lift things like pictured above. I have an aluminum intake too. I can only guess what a fully dressed big block chevy and turbo 400 weighs combined. Ignorance was bliss in this case.

 

you could also fab up a couple flat plates with hook eye holes similar to the stock pick points and bolt them to the ends of the heads, so the bolts are in shear as opposed to tensile stress.

your fears are not without merit. if it fails it will not come down slowly, it will fall in a blink of an eye, sending six hundred pounds of iron crashing down mercilessly onto whatever is below.

Paul

 

I am using one of those leveler things. It has 4 points that attach to the engine. I've now pulled the thing. It will go back with a th350 on the back of it. So far so good.

 

I do it with lifting lugs like 60's style suggests. Better to be safer than sorry. If something falls it happens real quick. I also like to postion myself in the least vulnerable postion incase something unexpetected was to happen. Just think smart and take care out there

 

Well as long as everyone is pitchin' in their opinions....

I always use two grade 8 eyebolts. I install them in place of the front left intake bolt and the back right one.

Then I just hook up my handy dandy engine leveler and go to town. If you are pulling the ****** with the engine, you will never spend better money than on an engine leveler.
They are great!
I also use two threaded "master links" to attach my chain to the eye bolts. Just check the weight ratings on your equipment. It isn't rocket science.

Justice

 

You saw how we had it on Mark's car. Make sure the bolts
are long enough and go into the head at least 3/8". Use
the four outboard corner bolts.

Give me a call on Sun. if you are still having problems or need some longer bolts.

TZ

 

just to beat the dead horse,

if attached correctly the lift plate is fine.

example: Mopar trusts them with their $14,000.00 Hemis..

 

An even straight pull on one decent carb bolt is strong enough to lift a whole car off the ground. It's people who use duff old bolts in worn out threaded holes, and tighten 'em hand tight, who start dropping motors.
Just think, they wouldn't sell carb face mounted engine lifting brackets if they didn't think they were strong enough to SAFELY lift any engine.
USA. The land of litigation, liability and compensation. LOL