Technical Hydraulic roller lifter choices for Chevy 327

Anyone have experience with retro-fit hydraulic roller lifters that can handle going to 6500-6800 in an everyday driver. Building the motor now and already have a new set of 25 year old Crower lifters but I assume the latest offerings may have improved some. Also any advisement about springs alone or lighter springs and rev kit? Again, think everyday driver, not all out drag car. I want to be able to take day trips and not worry if I decide to hang on in first or second gear until the tach is in the red.

 

I'd say you're a bit optimistic on the RPM levels for a hydraulic roller. If you want to spin it that high, you should think about a mechanical roller. Also, you should post the cam specs, head specs, etc.. I recently built a 383 stroker with a custom hydraulic roller and only mid-size AFR heads - made 520 HP at 6400 RPM (that was my redline).

 

Cam is the old Crower Beast hyd. roller, 224 @ .050 on the intake with .531" 114 degree separation.
Heads are the Trick Flow DHC 175 worked by Gerry Killian in South Georgia, plenty of flow for a 333".
Solids run on the hyd. cam with nil lash is an option but not my first choice. Limited travel lifters? Rev kit? I have titanium spring retainers and usually run modest springs so the plungers don't get overwhelmed and pushrods can be kept lighter. Not looking for max horsepower, just looking for fun and reasonable rev capability. Not going drag racing, just an occasional blast to the mid 6k.
What lifters has everyone had that worked for them, if at all?

 

Rev kits are 60’s technology. I don’t think anyone really uses them anymore. I say that, but maybe some of the more knowledgeable folks can chime in. @Ericnova72

 

I wonder if the hydraulic roller lifters that Comp has are the same lifter for small and big blocks? Probably so?

I have a set in the 427 Plan II, and it's been towards 7k way too often...and it only bent the intake valves once, and only a little bit. But it is probably on the edge. And it gets a lot of street miles.

 

I thought that as well but the cam guru in North Carolina I've conversed with told me use just enough spring to keep things under control and let the rev kit help that last bit in keeping the lifter in contact with the cam. By keeping everything lighter it's easier on the parts.

 

Same lifter, different link bar.

 

I would suggest that you talk to the people at Crower.
They know the product line, and have dealt with people that want 6500 RPM everyday street cars.
I'd ask them about everything to keep the combo alive, from springs, retainers and guide plates to oils.
The hydraulic part is where this is modern advancement. I'd ask about limited pump up and pressures, to make sure float is avoided, and expected longevity of components.

 

This is something that was quite common with mechanical lifters (especially with older full-on race grinds) - as they have lash. With hydraulic rollers, they are not as common - though some folks still use them to take some spring load off of the hydraulic plunger (meaning they can get away with a little less spring pressure). The reason this works is that rev-kits control the lifter body - not the plunger.

For more information on hydraulic roller capabilities you might want to contact Morrel (or Chris Straub) - and speak with them about their 4602 SBC lifter. It is supposed to go to 7000+ or so RPM (obviously depending on the rest of your valvetrain). Morrel makes the hydraulic roller lifters that MOST of the cam manufacturers use.

You might also want to speak with Chris Straub - he has some really good cam/lifter packages for SBC. Speak with him about your complete combination.

SBC Hydraulic Roller Lifters 4602 (straubtech-morellifters.com)

 

When adjusting valve lash on the hydraulic lifters can' you run the rockers down until the push rod JUST touches the lifter and then give it 1/4 turn (or 1/8) and call it good ?
They can't pump up but just that little bit...being almost like a solid lifter.
(When I squeeze my SBF....my butthole slams shut wayyy before I get above 5500 RPM ...Jus say'in ! YRMV)
6sally6

 

Once it slams shut, then really get on the loud pedal and spin that sucker up! Heck, I've taken my street flathead to 6200 - it wanted more! LOL

 

Well uh.......YEAH !! It's extremely hard to damage a flathead when the valves float.....not-so-much with OHV stuff !!
When it slams shut it a lot like a waste gate on a turbo !!!
6sally6

 

That also creates better engine vacuum....
Just make sure you re adjust the idle mixture screws on your Holley(s) for max vacuum readings....

 

Now that you mention it . . . you are definitely "slamming shut the waste gate" . LOL

 

Yes, you can do that, but the thin round wire retainers may get beat up and come out if anything happens to create lash (floating a valve or temp increase causing less lifter preload). The lifters with real snap rings were designed to prevent that problem. If you aren't running enough spring to be safe, better have a rev limiter.

 

So, called StraubTech, got someone that sounded like he reads the description from a computer screen and wanted to sell me the lower cost Morels. He told me there was no difference between them and the 4602 other than the roller size. Not real confidence inspiring. Maybe it's because I've actually been diagnosed with Asperger's which means I autistic, but I seem to have a really hard time communicating anything technical.
Did some more research and the 4602 seems to be what I want, supposed to be good to 7k and I should never need that. I just want a touch of safety if I wanted to run the motor up to 6500, even if it was just once and only for an instant. I have used solid rollers in the past and they were fun but this build is going in my stripped down '65 'vette for day trips of a couple hundred miles. I need to reduce the time I spend working on vehicles and more time enjoying them. 2 cars, 2 trucks, 2 motorcycles and 3 airplanes.

 

I have a stash of the "C" clips and that's the first step in detailing a lifter before installation.

 

Excellent.

 

Best of luck - let us know how things go! Make sure you accurately determine your pushrod length requirement with whatever heads, springs, rockers you'll be using - this is super important. Also, you may want to consider a rocker-arm stud girdle if you don't already have one. The more solid you make the top-end, the better. In my 383 I have the #5372 lifters and ran them on the dyno to 6400 . . . had no problem at that RPM range.

 

It's not just the lifters involved in the question. The shape of the cam lobe and it's design limit is part as is spring pressure. The Morel lifter is very good but if the lobe's ramps aren't designed for that rpm range, it will toss the lifter instead of it following it. I think if you go to Richard Holdener's youtube channel and scroll through it, he has done some dyno work on something similar. Copying his work could be very simple and effective. What you ask for is very doable with the compatible parts.

 

Did a little more looking around last night. Anyone have opinions of Isky lifters made by Johnson? I'll call them later today and ask for a recommendation. I find the 2075HYRT intriguing.

 

If the cam guru is Mike Jones from Jones cams follow his recommendations you will be happy with the results.

 

One more thought......
Maybe don't go too crazy on lift on the cam.
A little less lift (and maybe a little more duration) will stress the valvetrain a little less.After all...it IS a street machine and not a full blown drag car !
6sally6

 

Isky is the only one I use, yes made by Johnson.

 

Actually a pretty modest cam. Trying to replicate the old L-79 327 feel, just more of it. Needs to handle putting miles on it for the occasional run to Murrels Inlet for seafood and a blast to upper rpm to get around the morons cruising in the left lane.

 

Just talked with Isky, guy told me the 2077HYRT will be all I need.

 

That's right!

 

Lots of ways to skin the cat - sounds like you found a good lifter. Make sure your spring pressure is correct for the lifter and cam, you'll probably need new pushrods and a stud-girdle is a good idea for over 6000 rpm.

 

My machinist is a one man shop about 15 minutes on back roads hidden in the midlands of South Carolina. Flow bench, dyno and everything one stop. Has a side room with about 2 thousand cams to choose from and he's been getting it done for the better part of half a century. I'm an airframe and engine repairman/fabricator by trade. I just haven't had need to go shopping for hydraulic rollers for so long I wanted to catch up on the technology so I figured this was a good place to ask opinions.
I promise the valvetrain will be spot on before firing whatever I piece together on the dyno. Not looking for max hp, just a fun driving 2500lb. '65 'vette roadster built from scrap and aftermarket parts. Maybe a few events and meet some of the people from here at some point. Doing it for the joy.

 

I'd listen to your guy before a bunch of traditional key board fiends.
Old school practice was to break-in with less RPM and less spring pressure, but that should be his call too. Since you are going hyd, I'd assume you are hoping to curb routine maintenance, so make sure to beef up the typical wear points and dial in the geometry with pushrod length and installed height.
I'm curious how you get a 65 down to 2500 pounds, but it's probably not going to look traditional.
https://corvettestory.com/specs/1965-Corvette-specs-options.php

Weight 250 Horsepower Engine, Three Speed Transmission
Model 19467 Convertible
Total: 3,145; Design: 3,445; Shipping*: 2,985 lb.

Sounds like a complete blast and I hope it meets and exceeds your expectations.