Rebuilt 241 RED RAM "puffs smoke" on start up ?

So I completely rebuilt my 53' 241 Red Ram

I dumped an *** load of CASH into this thing and it runs like a ****d ape, however when i start it up after sitting for 30 min or so I get a NASTY puff of white smoke. Pretty embarrasing to boot ( especially knowing I put sooooo much money into it )

Although I am completely PLEASED with the performance of the engine, I am really bummed out about this "PUFF" that happens EVERY time I start the car after starting it cold.

- I used and am still using Rotella T
- It's not overfilled
- Doesnt smoke when running or on load ( only after sitting cold )

I'm thinking stem seal ( or lack there of ) ???


Any thoughts out there ?

 

ya i would agree with your stem seal guess, Kip.

 

PIC of the car / engine ( not smoking )

 

Did you put valve guides and seals in it? Could be oil just a thought hope you find out with out haveing to brake back into the motor....

 

Chop, if the stem seals are there and in good shape....
Check your float levels. If they are a tad high it will dribble over after shut off and the fuel will wash off / dilute the residual oil on the cyl. wall= puff of smoke..
Also, how much fuel pressure are you running? Too much psi can do the same thing, causing post shut off dribble..

White smoke is high temp oil, Only a couple of places for that to come from.

Dave

 

White smoke can also be antifreeze in a combustion chamber. Does the smoke come from both sides?

 

yup

 

no seals at all...none from the factory in 53', so i didnt add any

EDIT: I'll check PSI and dribbles

 

Im guessing its your valve seals.

 

Sorry no help here just subscribing!
If it smells sweet it's antifreeze..................sure hope that's not the case as I have been following your build and you paid your dues!
Next time you shut her down take the radiator cap off or relieve the pressure and see if that stops the smoke or diminishes it............

 

I'd go with the basics first, but just wonder what the bore and bore tollerance is for that block. It could have been cherry when the block got cooked and magged, but after the bore it may have hit an incomplete hairline crack into a water jacket. When it gets hot enough to errupt, it does and then seats for a bit until it gets enough pressure again. Not a fun or cheap fix, but another starting point as a last resort. Pull it down, and get it re-magged for cracks. That can be fixed, and may last your life w/the car. Try everything else first.

 

Chop, try installing valve positive seals on the intake and exhaust guides. This may require that the heads be removed so the guide can be machined to accept them. I'll check what the seal number I used on the last 241 I built and repost. That 241 doesn't smoke at all, just hard to cold start with the Hilborn injection.

 

Chop,Before you go taking it all apart. Start doing a consumption test. Oil,Coolant And check for Fuel dribbles also.

Keep checking all fluids till you find out which one is being lost.

Then go for the kill.

 

Hemis don't use ex seals, oil can't run up the stems.

 

Sometimes the smoke from oil getting past the guides on start up looks more white than blue.Fresh engine,good ring seal,no valve guide seals,might smoke on start up.If there's room between the spring retainer and top of the guide at full lift you might try simple rubber umbrella seals on the intakes.No Hemi expert,but I suppose you can do it without pulling the head,compressed air trick.

 

Chopperman..All the bolts and studs that go into the water jackets, where they sealed. I can't remember how many, some in the valve cover studs, I believe the exhaust studs??????
Try, turning it over for a short time without starting it, that will push out what ever is in the cylinders. Then start it, if no smoke, you have a leak somewhere..
What do your plugs look like. Check the oil for water, fuel, whatever..
Duane..
If the floats were set to high or to much fuel pressure, fuel would be coming out the accelerator pump hole..
How does that intake perform???

 

Leaking bolts or studs would be external leaks. Only head gasket or oil getting around the stems would cause an internal problem.

 

check the seal between the spark plug tubes and the cylinder heads. Are you runnin spark plugs washers/gaskets? if you are-dont. Crank the plugs straight down into the tube and run em down HARD..



T.H.

 

SOLVED -

Threw a new set of plugs in

I spent about 10 minutes pulling the crush washers from the new plugs, gapped em, and threw em in.

Problem GONE BABY..

 

Old post but I'm looking for info on valve stem seals.....I see they are not used on the exhaust side. Any adverse problems if you do use them?

 

The adverse problem would be the exhaust valve seizing because it needs the oil on the valve stem for lubrication.
Fairly common in a lot of older engines.

 

Ex valves hang upside down, oil can't run through when engine is off so no need for seals. Maybe an oversimplification...

 

Sometimes the best solution is the easiest solution. I too made the same mistake.

 

...if we don't learn from the past then we will repeat it.....p*** it on.

 

Interesting find on my 1953 331 Chrysler upon dis***embly. Exhaust valve guides had holes in them from the factory. Exhaust emissions were not an issue in 53. Anyone wants to check out the machine work being done on this motor, here is a link to the machine shops photo album for it.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.835768418350416&type=3

This is a pic of the exhaust valve before being R/R'd for rebuild.
Joe

 

My 354 (331+) has been smoking lately at start-up as I take it for its "monthly" drive. Then it goes away. I figure it's lubricating something that needs lubrication after sitting for a while. You can drive it for a day or two and it's just fine. Taking it apart is a lot more expensive than chasing the "problem".