Received my steering set up today. For some reason it’s like not wanting to drop in or clear ? Is there something I’m missing. It’s a 48 flatty old Edmund heads. Wonder how to fit between frame and clear motor to set in stock slot on a 1930 coupe? Any ideas. Might had gone the wrong direction at $1100 + shipping both ways..
Someone makes a supposedly drop in F100 steering box for all Model A’s? How do they guarantee that fit? Every single engine swap would be different. I’d think the builder would need to custom make his flange for distance left and right. Then might need to change the position front to back to clear the engine and the pedals. Hot rods aren’t a one size fits all.
I have an F-1 box in my '31, with a flathead. I had to machine the mounting flange off and make one for the model a mounting holes and weld it to the box. It's quite a bit closer to the box than the original flange for the pick up. I also don't think you will have much luck with the exhaust with an F-100 box.
Post up some photos of what you're working with so we can see the issues. I have heard that more than one Guy has had to remove the motor to get a steering gear in the chassis.
As I have the unit just laying in it’s about location, it’s lacking about an inch from mount plate to frame at front section. Just thinking the nose shaft is to long. Could lift or tilt motor to see if it would help. But my gut says it’s to far out towards motor all said and done…
Yes Sir, you are a long way from being correct. The sector shaft isn't even far enough to get the Pitman arm on in the correct place. Hitting the Block is keeping the shaft from getting into the correct position and that is holding the Steering Wheel outboard and probably interfering with being able to close the Door. Not Good! Back to the drawing board.
Those F100 steering box conversions are meant to be a drop in replacement of a stock Model A box, in a stock Model A. Not an A-V8 conversion. You need a 48-52 F1 box that is underslung. Millworks offers an AV8 F1 conversion: https://www.millworkshotrod.com/col...odel-a-to-v8-1928-1931?variant=44340080345326
Boy thinking I’m just going to doel out some more cash and have a F1 column built. Can’t figure why C.W. Would build this for me on this particular car build. Chips were laid out on build Conversations, where AV8 got lost on the board. Looks like I got a new F100 to sell. Thank you all for pointing me in the right direction.
Maybe a phone call to C.W. would be in line? If there's a miss understanding an exchange and some freight could get things moving in a better direction.
I dropped them a line and missed the returned call. I’m going that direction in the am. I’ve got a real good idea now as to my fitment of needs. It’s all good . They built a great product. Thinking by time I’m done I’ll be able to help others on the same path. Fun stuff.
Not sure at this time if there was a fault? If I was not asked or I did not mention av8 I like to talk about what I’m doing so it had to come out somewhere in our discussions just don’t know if it was a clear statement. S..happens !
I have a '53-'55 F100 box in my '32 sedan with 8ba flathead. I cut the flange completely off and made a new one from 1/2" plate that matched the factory '32 bolt holes. Had to enlarge the center hole in the frame. Poked it thru the frame with the flange slipped over the box and bolted the flange to the frame. Positioned the box where needed and tack welded the flange to the box. Removed complete unit and welded it all up. Clears very well. Yes, '32 frame is a little wider there but I think it would work in an A. Dave
In the first picture you can see how far the sector shaft will sick out when the flange is moved toward the box. In the second one you can see how the exhaust can be worked around an f-1 box.
I didn't find a 7 tooth steering box in the Cw Moss online catalog. Juat the 2 tooth for 1100 bucks that clearly states will not work with an A-V8. I did find a 7 tooth sector shaft for a Model A box.
Not sure if this is any help, my dad put together this A with an F100 box 20 years ago. It can certainly be done. Note he cut the mast off the column at the bottom to clear the engine. It has off the shelf Red's headers for a '32 and they fit with a little massaging on the rear tube. If I paid that kind of money I'd definitely be on the phone looking for a refund before going and cutting it to fit.
I’m seeing clearly far more option's. On getting a roll on this steering set up. Just to let you all know, I had a person give me the number for CW Moss I never got to look at there site. I just talked about what I wanted to achieve to the person on the other end of the phone. And gave card number to get it made and shipped. It’s a real set back at this point. Clearly a lot my fault. But with all this info I’m receiving it’s like I just paid for a class plus I got a wall hanger & trust me I’ve collected a few on the build…
Education is something we all go through. C.W. is a stand-up Co. to deal with. I'd still call and talk with them and just maybe something better than expected will come out of it.
Mark, we’re all human. Some Hambers are very experienced with these things. Several have walked in your shoes at one time or another. Next time, take the class first. It’s cheaper, and you can buy a Hamb calendar for a wall hanger. That’s cheaper too!
Here is how I did an F1 box ModelA flange welded to box. Headers may be available from Reds Headers. John
My Googler turned up a lot of info on this particular subject... https://www.google.com/search?sca_e...QIHTvDAOUQ0pQJegQIDRAB&biw=1920&bih=953&dpr=1
I did talk with the owner of CW Moss on my situation at hand, he and I came to the conclusion the AV8 part was never mentioned. All on me. So I shipped the system back. Hoping the still have my core.At this time I’m seeing know way to keep my original steering wheel and lite & horn stock set up. If I go to a F1 box set up. Sad. Still digging for direction. Thanks
An F1 box can be set up for use with the original light switch/horn rod assembly by using a 37-39 Ford lower plate and light switch bracket. The shaft can be swapped out or machined to accept a taper and key steering wheel as well.
NealinCA I’m going to contact Millworks and see if they can build this set up! This would be tit’s. Thanks for the heads up, no one’s brought this up. Thanks
Here are a couple of F1 boxes set up for 32's with the 37-39 Ford lower plate and light switch bracket
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