So I'm going to attempt to restore the steering wheel on my 57 Chevy. It's the first time I've tried anything like this.... I understand what to do and how to do it, but I have seen different recommendations for which product to use to fill the cracks? So... what's everyone's favorite crack filler? Epoxy? Bondo? Something else?
I like the PC-7 two part epoxy, it can be shaped molded and sanded once cured to perfect match with less sanding unlike others that take so long to set. https://www.jmpwood.com/products/pc-7-paste-epoxy-adhesive
Second the PC7 epoxy. JB Weld works great for thin cracks, it will settle down in a thinner crack or break better
To the original poster- I agree with the pc7. I used jb weld once it worked okay. But Pc7 worked really well. This is for painted wheels. This. I watched one being done. They used the pc7 to fix all cracks, Smoothed the wheel, made a mold with silicone (I think). Then busted the wheel apart down to metal. Cleaned it up and chromed it, then recast with acrylic (I think under vacuum) … that’s the oversimplified version. Each step look easy to screw up. Pricey!
There’s a guy on Fakebook by the name “ The steering wheel guy”. It’s worth a look. He usees carbon fiber and resin and does amazing work. I’m going to use his technique on my 40 Ford wheel. Every time I have used the other products mentioned above, the cracks have reappeared.
I’m doing a wheel right now and like to use West Systems. It’s a wicked strong waterproof epoxy that we use to building wood mahogany boats with. It will stick to anything and hard but flexible. It also can be thickened by adding silica and comes in some different colors for color matching .
I went PC7 on mine and it worked for a while. It was in BAD shape and with manual steering, some of the cracks are back.
I plan to use pc-7 when I do my wheel ... mainly because I'm a cheap B@stard. I like that it comes in a quart can at a reasonable price, and easy to work with. Question to those that have tried it and said it started to get cracks again. Is it the PC7 that cracked, or is it more cracks appearing from the original 70+ year old wheel? Either way I feel my wheel will never be restored. It has too many tiny little ribs in it that would take a lifetime to recreate .... I will get it as close as I can, then want to add some sort of leather cover on it.
The cracks happen because of expansion and contraction of the metal. When the plastic is fresh it has some flexibility and is one piece. Once it cracks it will continue to crack at the same place because it is in pieces.
JB WELD. Actually drill a bunch of small holes into the sides of the V’d out cracks, to provide extra tooth for the JB WELD to grab on to. Sometimes use masking tape to keep the JBW in place ‘till it sets up.
Without recasting the entire wheel there is always the chance (and a pretty good one at that)that it will continue to crack. The old material is brittle, hence the original cracks, and fixing existing cracks does nothing to change that fact.
I have used PC7 and we use it at work on all the wheels we restore. Never had one re-crack. I think it's all in the prep, and maybe the condition of the wheel being restored.
The old "cracks" will be contaminated with natural skin oils and sweat from the driver's hands laid in there over many years. Flossing those cracks with solvent and files/abrasives, etc. down to a fresh, uncontaminated surface is typically required for a good bond. Shortcuts make for short fixes.
We grind out all the cracks no matter how small. After the grinding the wheel looks worse that before we started on it. But we have clean plastic to stick the PC7 to.
I kinda get the feeling that many have used PC7 and are satisfied with it .... as long as surface is prepped properly and applied as directed ..... However, if the wheel you are starting with is a total pig, PC7 wont do miracles .... the old worn & tired wheel will continue to crack. I just feel like it is a very doable project for someone to take on. I will use my dremel tool and grind the shape back into my wheel until satisfied and then sand & prep for paint .... see how long it last.
Be careful with the epoxy if you haven't used it before. Some people are allergic to it. My wife found out the hard way. I would use it in a well ventilated area and try not to get any on your skin.
I used PC7 on the '40 Mercury wheel for my T roadster and by the time I had all of the cracks ground down to steel and V'd out, I think I lost like 1/4 of the original plastic. But it turned out well and has held up nicely so far. I find I like to over-fill the gaps I've made, let it set up for a day, and then carve it down closer to shape with a razor blade while it's still just slightly soft. After another day of cure time, I can usually sand it with sandpaper without the paper plugging up, and having cut it down closer the day before saves a lot of sanding. If I have little divots or small spots that need to be filled once the PC7 is cured and sanded, I've used JB weld over the top, it flows out real nice and is easier to work with for very small amounts, but I wouldn't do the whole wheel with it. It may eventually develop new cracks, but even a freshly recast wheel will crack eventually. Nothing lasts forever, and all roads lead to the junkyard in the end.
I am currently repairing two 1949-50 Ford Crestliner steering wheels. I bought one in 2014-15 and repaired it with some two-part epoxy putty I bought from Amazon. It held up good and was easy to work with but developed some hairline cracks after hanging in my garage for almost ten years (not to mention the squirrels in my garage took a bite or two out of it.) J.B. weld did not work very well because it would sink into the crack and would require me to fill it in again. Either way it takes a lot of time to hand sand the contours. I do it a little at a time in my living room while watching T.V. The end result is well worth the effort.
To glue ,bond,fill large cracks or voids I used the 105-205 as we have 55 gallon drums of it at work and just used a ounce or two when we had left overs when building the boat. I used the west system G/flex epoxy for small cracks and voids at home. I haven’t had it crack yet on a repair and only use that on my projects. The 105 system we use at work and we use a few gallons a week or better have zero issues cracking or shrinking when application is under .200. This is a boat so it’s in the heat cold and in the elements plus sitting in the water.
The steering wheels I have repaired have always cracked during our Minnesota winters. A milder climate or a heated garage would probably help keep them looking good longer.
The MoPar wheel I did was a hard rubber type of material. I am not sure what other manufacturers used, but I would imagine that PC7 would work better on a plastic type of wheel. I did v out the cracks, the PC7 was great to work with and it turned out very well after painting it. The next time I might consider using the additive used in paint for flexible bumpers.
The original "plastic" cracks over time, as it shrinks and breaks down. Repairing the cracks, doesn't stop the degradation of the original material. PC7 is good, but in my experience, takes 2 or 3 days to reach full hardness.
The Jalopy Journal
