I have posted on here before about my plans to put an Aluminum V-8 in my ‘28 Model A Roadster Pickup. Unfortuntely that plan is going to have to be shelved (probably forever) although this question would still apply. I am now building a “B” motor Banger that will be putting out close to 100HP. Should I install a K member? It would have to be a bolt in because my welding skills are not up to the task (also I am not removing the body). I’m not taking this to the track or the salt flats it’s just a cruiser. It will have a 5 speed and an open driveline.
For what you want to do, no don't need a '32 style K member. You'd have to cut the majority of the center out due to the trans and open drive. That said, you are going to need to fab up or figure out some type of trans mount to mount the tail shaft. I don't see any of the Model A stuff working correctly with the 5 speed hanging off the banger. If you banger is putting out 100 hp, that is approx. 60-70 more horse power than stock. They claim 40 hp, but that seems optimistic to me. You'd be surprised that increase in horsepower and torque will stress the frame without an adequate center crossmember.
Others will know better than me, but I think it depends on the transmission. If using your stock '28, keep as is. I'm using a '32 style K because it mates so nicely with my '39 trans. (and 52 flathead)
What are you doing for a new center crossmember? I assume if you are swapping out the transmission you'll need something to support the new one. Also, are you switching to hydraulic brakes? If so, you'll need to figure out how to do that with whatever crossmember you are using (Ecklers has a kit to use the stock setup for a master cylinder).
You will need to fabricate a support for the much longer 5 speed transmission anyway. What form that takes depends what you are doing with the rest of the motor mounts, if anything.
Old Yankee Speed / Millworks sells exactly what you need to make all that stuff a bolt in. Check them out. good dudes that make really nice high quality parts. Old Yankee Speed Co. – Millworks Hot Rod
I had a kit for the T-5 swap that included all the required parts from transmission exchange. I sold it when I decided to go with the V8 215, now I need to buy another. I will also check out Yankee. Model B is 50 HP stock and has a balanced crankshaft. What are we doing to get a 100? Cam, Dual Downdrafts, Tube Headers, High Compression Head, Electronic Ignition. I’m not dreaming either, one of the Guru’s of banger hop up Jim Brierley has a dyno sheet with 200+ from a Model A motor (I’m using his cylinder head) says we can get 100 easy. And yes, juice brakes (I have that all worked out)
My avatar has new bore and babbitt, , counterweighted crank, lightened flywheel, new, not reground, B cam, dual SU carbs, SS tube header, 7:1 Lion Speed head, 12v electronic ignition, its timed with a timing light it runs good, I drove it on a 1158 mile trip, but I dont think its 100 horse. What else did you do?
A Model A motor is rated 40HP @ 2,200 that’s about as high as you can go with the stock crank. Model B makes 50HP but it’s @ 2,500-2,800. I have a hotter cam than than you but everything else is close to yours. It may or may not that’s just @What I was told by a guy I believe in. He actually uses a dyno. Truth is, I don’t really care, I only care about enough to pull an overdrive @ highway speeds (50-55). Any more than that is just a side benefit of what I want to do and that is to have the fun of building a hot but streetable banger. what I wanted the most is the balanced crank. I can’t stand the vibration of an A motor. I would say that anything above 75HP will never get used. BTW I also use a timing light. What total advance are you using and what fuel? I would like to see a pictures of the SU’s, I’ve never heard of that set up. I’m using Stromberg 48’s but with progressive linkage. I doubt that the second carb will never see any use and I may end up blocking off the rear one. I also have 16” wire wheels the same color as yours
I had a 30 pickup with a warmed over B engine and it would run 50-55 all day with a stock B trans and 3:78 rear gears. I would question using a dual carb intake and blocking off the rear carb, you might be starving the rear cylinders even with the progressive linkage. I ran a single 94 on an Ansen manifold and worked great, working on a 29 roadster pickup Gow Job with a warmed over banger and thinking about running dual 81's. Dual 48's will be around 350 cfm and over kill on a banger, even the dual 81's are too much carb.
I have two A's with 5 speeds behind warmed up B motors with no K member, just a modified stock crossmember on the one (T-5 from a Jeep application, closed driveline). The modified stock crossmember takes some cutting to remove material and reinforcing it around where it was removed. The TK-5 with open driveline has a fabricated transmission support. The TK-5 was used in the '84-'87 Bronco II, Aerostar and Ranger. There are lots of steps to getting everything to play together but the outcome is worth it. Good luck
I just finished a T5 install behind a banger 4. Did involve fabricating a crossmember and new torque arms. Can discuss, contact me offline. Ken
I thought twice about answering the question of where 100HP was coming from because I wasn’t quite ready to get into THAT debate just yet. Every little bitty statement generates 5 comments and 5 questions, all which must be addressed a then the cycle starts again. Yes, (2) 48’s is too much. With progressive linkage it is doubtful that the rear carb will see much action and if it does not I will block it off to keep it simple. The motor is at an angle to the rear (of course) and fuel runs down hill. In addition to that, when accelerating the motor is pushed forward while the fuel stays slower. Both of these factors create a lean front/rich rear mixture if a single downdraft carb is used on a center inlet manifold. If only one carb is used, a location forward of center produces the most uniform mixture across all 4 cylinders. How much forward of center is ideal? I don’t know and I doubt many others do either. I thought seriously about using 81’s and 97’s but in the end decided on 48’s and progressive linkage. The beauty of it all is none of those components are all that expensive (if bought used/rebuild it yourself) so I can experiment to my hearts content (I also have a 32/36 Weber that might get a tryout as well). I won’t lie, the twin carbs is totally for the look (don’t tell anybody), a single 48 would be sufficient I’m sure (maybe even a single 97). If I didn’t care about the look of the motor I would like to install a Holley Sniper EFI. Before I die, I may be able to answer one or two of those questions, we’ll see. I may have too much cam installed in it now but will have to wait until I finish the project and get it on the road. The subject of the camshaft profile is a whole ‘nother subject for ‘nother day. I’m not going to say that this is the case with any of you fine fellows here but the average guy does not consider that a banger motor is 200 Cubic Inches. In it’s original configuration it is strangled by a 1” bore carb, less than 5:1 compression, and an unbalanced crank that keeps the rpm way down below where most engines are just getting going. Getting 1/2 HP Per Cubic inch is not hard, not even with a flathead. I also have a ‘48 Willys Jeep which has a stock 134 CI Flathead 4. For giggles, I ran it on a chassis dyno when I had a chance. Per Willy’s spec’s that motor reaches peak HP around 4,400 rpm but per the dyno it had peaked below 3,800. Without a dyno and an AF meter it’s little more than guessing (I don’t have an af meter but look forward to getting one if prices continue to go down for them).
My car has an Antique Engine Rebuilding A touring engine. 6.0 head, insert bearings, CW crank, touring cam, 1.73 intake valves, light flywheel and V8 clutch - FS electronic ignition, stock carb & exhaust. with the Mitchell OD (and 39 trans) it cruises nicely between 60-62. It peaks out right at 68 I have a B carb that should get 70. https://www.antiqueenginerebuilding.com/highwaycar.html I just picked up a B block and CW crank to build for it a Brierly head and his cam along with a Reds header and twin Stromberg 97s. I kicking around using the Burtz block just so I feel comfortable driving it long distances since that task also requires AC for the wife.
I would absolutely love a Burtz block but by the time I factor in all the machine work I would need to pay for (I don’t have the needed machinery to do it myself and the Burtz block does not come “ready to go”), at least for now a Burtz block is not on the table. I’m quite surprised that with all you have done to the motor, you are still running a single Zenith. If you want to stay old, old, skool you could at least go to twin Zeniths since the needed manifolds are available. Do you have a tach? I would be curious what rpm you are doing at 68 mph. A CW crank makes a whole different motor than a stocker. I love playing with all this stuff but it starts to get expensive…… In addition to that, I think a guy need two of them, one to be driving and one to have in pieces.
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