I know I promised a video of my extremely scientific analysis of the wishbone/engine clearance. Here it is:
Got the radius rod mount nearly complete. Just need to trim the ends to fit. Then I can drill a hole for the Johnny Joint sleeve and weld that in.
Got it welded up and tacked in place. Need to move the back of the trans over 1/8” to line up proper like.
Just a thought- If you let the rear two tubes go downwards to where the joint is, you would triangulate the construction more? A bit harder to make ends fit though…
Yes, it would, and Yes, it would....I may still do that, but this should be plenty stiff. (unless somebody tells me differently)
So I had a thought while driving to work this morning...I'm thinking I can use the '29 wishbones that I cut off the yoke earlier as torque arms for the banjo. I could buy a split bone kit and weld the tabs to the tops of the radius rods, and make/weld a plate to the back end to bolt to the banjo. Any reason this won't work, or that I shouldn't do it this way
Kinda turning them into a yoked ladder bar? the only issue I can see is that with a single torque arm bolted to the side of the banjo center and run forward to its own mount - which is how this is typically done with a rear suspension that’s yoked together- the torque control in the bar is more isolated from the yoked links than it would be with a ladder bar/wishbone set up. A separate forward mount lets all the torque land there and lets your “wishbone” mount function closer to stock and just control the rear axle position. Sorry if that reads a little jumbled, let me know if it makes since or not
Don’t use tie rod ends on the triangulating torque rods. They won’t need to rotate, they should be fairly solid to the lower link. A regular clevis should be simpler.
Maybe I'm not understanding you right...If I mount the torque arms to their own mount, wont it bind when the diff moves up and down? I had thought the torque arms should mount to the radius rods below to move in concert with them like this pictures. I'm doing close to what is shown the the second picture, but using the Johnny Joint at the front of the radius rods. Thanks @alchemy . Hadn't thought about that, but it makes sense. In the top picture, they used a simple clevis. This is why I come here. We stand on the shoulders of giants. Without all of you, I would be completely lost...
Oh I was picturing something totally different. Something like the second photo should work, I don’t think you need two but it couldn’t hurt. Nathan did something similar with his y block coupe You can see the tab where his mounts https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1931-model-a-coupe-y-block-build-father-son.1004188/
All you're trying to do is add some strength to prevent/control the torque/rotation of the banjo rear under load. You can skin this cat many ways. One way (shown up above) is to essentially augment the rear radius rods to turn them into a control mechanism like a ladder bar (the one with the upper bars that integrate with the radius rods). The radius rod is attached to a lower mount point and the upper control rod is mounted above the rear - this mimics the classic ladder bar. The other method is what I'd call a "torque arm" - where it goes back to the center of the rear end and comes forward and mounts in with the radius rods stuff in the front. If the torque arm has a bracket that picks up the banjo bolts in the rear (wide spacing between two bolts) and is mounted to the front radius-rod area (like the example above), it will not articulate on its own - so a solid clevis mount will work. The front radius rod "johnny joint" handles the articulation for the whole triangulated assembly. Just consider where the driveshaft is in the mess. Either method works well - just pick your poison.
Thanks @Bored&Stroked That’s now the plan. Ordered clevises (clevi)? From speedway. While waiting for those parts to arrive I made a steering box plate for the ‘40 Ford box. Plan to notch the frame to make it flush and to get it a bit more outboard to clear the block. I had planned to put the body back on today but the weather had other plans. Next time.
Yeah, the pitman needs to be modified. I know. Just want to get everything welded in place before I do that
Since you're going with cross-steering, make sure you include a Panhard bar in front to control sideways movement of the front axle.
Later on Monday, a package was delivered to the house. Car parts. Left on the front porch as usual. Not more than 15 minutes later, it was stolen. I’ve got video and pictures of the thief, and filed a police report. Damn porch pirates
What an asshole, I’d go for a walk down the block. I’m sure as soon as he opened it and found a random car part he pitched it.
Thats cal for ya....I heard that you can steal up to 1000 bucks with no crime??? and that people just fill up their cart at the store and walk out???? is that true???
I think up to 1k is a misdemeanor. More is a felony. Might be more than 1k. I don’t really know. I don’t want this kid to be scarred forever on this, just to learn a lesson. Kids do stupid shit. I know I did.
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