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Technical Shortening’36 rods

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by fivefour, Feb 19, 2024.

  1. fivefour
    Joined: Feb 26, 2013
    Posts: 20

    fivefour
    Member

    What’s the best way to shorten’36 rear radius rods? Can you grind the weld off by the axle mount, remove some length and then re weld it?
    Using them on an aftermarket 32 frame
     

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  2. 325w
    Joined: Feb 18, 2008
    Posts: 6,478

    325w
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I’d cut at the metal joint and metal forging. Reweld there.
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2024
  3. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 10,743

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska

    Getting old, there's been a couple threads on here showing how to shorten and strengthen 36 bones. One was by a HAMBer 117harv that does a lot of high end polishing.
     
  4. X38
    Joined: Feb 27, 2005
    Posts: 17,498

    X38
    Member

    Forging.;)

    Why not shorten at the front? Still using a torque tube?
     
    1oldtimer likes this.
  5. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,605

    alchemy
    Member

    Yeah, I’d shorten them at the front if necessary. Less leverage up there in case your weld isn’t as good as Henry’s.
     
    Dirty Dingus Magee likes this.
  6. I'm with Alchemy . . . shorten the fronts.
     
  7. 31 Coupe
    Joined: Feb 25, 2008
    Posts: 528

    31 Coupe
    Member

    ^^^^
    And if you can chop off ~4" at the front you can then use those offcut stubs as lower rear shock mountings.
     
    Outback likes this.
  8. 65standard
    Joined: Jun 14, 2011
    Posts: 1,096

    65standard
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Why shorten. Can’t you just move the mounting tab on the torque tube. I’m using stock length ‘41 rods on my ‘32
     
    ydopen likes this.
  9. doctorZ
    Joined: Apr 10, 2006
    Posts: 1,271

    doctorZ
    Member

    Def shorten the front as there is less mechanical advantage from the diff at that end.

    If you are using bungs for tie rod ends then you should be able to just shorten them way up, cut and taper the tube so it matches the bung OD and call it a day.

    If you are keeping the stock ends here is what I have done:
    • cut the end off ~4" from the stock welded seam
    • use a mill or bandsaw to cut a vertical 1/4" wide slot ~3" down the cut off piece and ~3" down the wishbone (make sure these slots line up)
    • use a 6" piece of 1/4" plate steel and put it into the the slot, weld it on the top and bottom, and then grind it down so you won't see it later
    I don't have any pics of the wishbones but here is one I did on a Model A brake cross-shaft which is the same principle. It works great and is super strong.

    upload_2024-2-20_10-32-34.jpeg
     
    BigJoeArt likes this.

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