Powerglide swap to 265

Hello, the reason I'm contacting you, is if you would know if an aluminum powerglide would work with a 1956 265 in a 210. I'm wondering about the starter and anything else that could be affected? Any help would greatly be appreciated, thanks, Rick

 

It will bolt to the block but a later starter won’t bolt to the block. But there is this option. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dck-10100
That said. Been a long time since seeing a 56 265. Maybe someone will clarify if a 56 block can be drilled for a more modern style starter.

 

@Kickitrick …..I agree with @johhny Gee , but would suggest you search on line for an adapter plate for the starter. I seem to recall seeing such an item ‘somewhere’ in the not so distant past.

Best wishes with your project.

Ray

 

Here’s a 56 265 block. No starter holes upper right

Now here’s. later block (327). Note the starter holes upper right.

 

Looks like 2 holes could be drilled, but the third not so much.

 

That’s the thing. Is casting made thicker in those area’s like in later years??? I think not.

 

They sell the adapter plate but you still have to contend with the front of the block mounts on the engine and rear miunt of the trans thing knocking out front seals in the trans unless you get the sidemount kit.
Danchuk 10100 Engine Starter Plate for 1955-1956 Chevy Tri-Five with Small Block Chevy 265 V8 with Late Model Transmission

Danchuck is no longer in business though.

one on ebay eBay item number:153226878328

 

I’ve got a 265 distributor if you don’t have one

 

YOU NEVER KNOW!

 

Obviously, the starter mounting is the greater challenge here. As for the front mounts….yes, there are only bolt ‘bosses’ on either side of the timing cover. However, IIRC, Chevy used a sort of ‘crossmember’ or ‘yoke’ one piece mount on early Corvette engines that spanned the front of the engine and was supported by frame mounts at or near the frame rails. Aftermarket mounts (mostly for ‘32/‘48 Fords) were available that were loose copies of the Vette piece. That style provides the resistance to engine torque that the later side mounts provided while using less space, but they worked.

As for the starter mount, I can imagine the possibility of fabricating a metal plate ….maybe a 1/2” thick…that adds some ‘meat’ to the block in the starter location. It’s just a concept…may or may not be viable. A consequence of that idea is that spacing the starter downward also takes the drive gear farther away from the flexplate teeth. Moving the stock starter inboard may cause starter to pan interference. An aftermarket geared hi-torque mini-starter may help with that.

“Oh, what a tangled web we weave when first we practice to modify” (apologies to the author)

Ray

 

were those thru the water pump bolts?

 

Perhaps on the Vette….but the aftermarket mounts dipped below the crank pulley and came up along side and utilized the same threaded bosses on the front of the block that the stock passenger car ‘pedestal’ mounts attached to, not the water pump attach points.

Ray

 

Someone makes bellhousing mounts for that setup but who eludes me right now. It's a pretty common Tri t Chevy thing where they want a later trans with the original front mounts.
I hate to even post anything from Speedway but this is pretty simple for a hot rod. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Spee...MI-ILfn6a-hAMVlM3CBB1aqwRqEAQYByABEgLf4PD_BwE

 

Danchuk is probably who you’re thinking of? But since Woody’s has taken over well, things just are not the same.

But here’s the side mount kit for later transmissions. POL is just west of where Dunchuk was. Good thing, because Woody’s is just too damn far to drive to get parts.