Also Id suggest using high temp clear on underhood cast parts like intakes ect... makes cleaning off grease & oil much easier.
I used a high temp engine paint in gloss black. Like a vht or duplicolor Seems to be working great and durable.
I received an email from Clive the other day at Stromberg, he said they have had good luck using automotive base coat but not clear on their bases. Just p***ing it along.
I use Cerakote - the version that you bake on. It is impervious to gasoline - which every paint I ever used was not. I've had it on the bases of my Stromberg 48's for 6 years - if it gets dirty, I take a toothbrush with lacquer thinner to clean it off. Surface prep is mandatory - you must blast the bases before you apply the coating and you can't touch the parts with your human hands once you blast, pre-bake, apply the coating and final bake.
I powdercoated the bases of some Strombergs for a local flattie powered deuce about 25 years ago. Still looks great.
A lot of rattle cans like are not fuel resistant, including a lot of rustoleum products. always check a sample. I use domestic enamel based paint (direct to metal) or powder coat. Enamel rattle cans have a much longer drying time so you can often tell by the product description.
If there's gas all over the carb the paint on the base is the least of your worries. Packard carbs are completely painted. I used to use black Deltron, then I switched to lacquer in restoration work? Why? Packard said so. Most of em are still shiney black today from decades ago. Some modern gas eats at everything but so far so good. Granted many of them haven't accrued 100k miles but...
Don't bake cerakote in your wife's oven . . . unless you're looking for a new wife! I use a big BBQ and depending on the coating, sometimes I have to go up to 500+ degrees (ceramic coating flathead headers!).
I've used VHT caliper paint with good results so far. After baking it's supposed to be chemical resistant, most specifically I suppose to brake fluid, but so far alcohol laden gas as well. It's been less than 2 years though so I guess time will tell.
^^^ Usually referred to as "Hot-Fuel Proof" Dope, specifically for the U-Control or Radio Control flying models.. Resistant to methanol, nitro, castor oil, benzene & other neat-n-cool additives... . I've used a generic spray-bomb epoxy paint(keep it outta your lungs & off your skin, it's nasty stuff) years ago that worked well, but like other said, prep is key. Don't know how it'd work w/todays' pantherpiss-for-fuel, or the alky-laced stuff. Marcus...