Hot Rods Quick change rear cover - leak

Hey guys-

Took my 1934 Ford Vicky on its first extended ride yesterday: not far or long but further than the couple of 3 minute rides around the block as I debugged. When I returned and parked for a bit I realized the quick change was leaking at the rear cover. A few bolts were loose and some only finger tight. Others required a wrench to loosen. Gasket is in good shape. No black permetex just the gasket.

Question for the quick change experts: from what I read the cover bolts should be tightened to 30 ft-lbs, no lock washers and no loc***e, just anti-seize. Is this what ya’ll do or do you add lock washers or blue loc***e?

It’s possible I forgot to torque these bolts way back when….rear end rebuilt since about 2019 waiting for me to finish the car and get it on the road. Final torque may have been overlooked, can’t remember. It did always drip here since fluid has been in it but a drop or two a week nothing like what it was doing following the ride.

By the way, yellow color of the 80-90 in the photo is just lighting.

Appreciate if the quick change experts could chime in.

thanks

Bantam

 

I would do like Ford did with the 9 inch, copper sealing washers. the oil could be working its way up the threads and out from under the bolt head. Unless the threaded holes are blind then that would not be the issue. If you don't plan on taking the cover off frequently you could throw a set of Nord Lock locking washers, they will not let the bolts back out ever. They work almost too well, takes a bit of grunt to loosen the bolts after they are torqued down.

 

My new Winters Champ QC leaked at the cover. It was the bolts, they were too long and seating before the cover was tight. I removed them all and shortened them, no more leaks.

 

I notice your rear cover is held on by bolts. I always use studs then with a washer under the nut I don't get any leakage. Also between the rear cover and the housing surfaces I use a good quality silicone sealer Gray ,blue or black if you do the studs and sealer you should be fine. You might experience a slight drip on occasion but usually nothing more.
Ronnieroadster

 

Decades ago with my daily driver, I ran 140 wt. to slow down the trail my Cyclone left.

Caution when borrowing a gear set to go drag racing -- Don't use a narrower Model A set as they will break the end plate.

 

On the race car we had studs holding the cover on. I brazed and AN washer to the bottom of each nut to spread the load and not dig into the cover. Never had a problem and it came on and off at least once during each race night, some times twice.

 

Great idea, If I did it over I would use studs and acorns.

 

Sometimes there's not enough room to get the cover back off.
The studs

 

Another vote for studs.

 

If you plan to put it together and forget about it, clean it all with brake cleaner, a little RTV around the gasket and blue loc***e on the bolts.
Planning on taking it off and on a lot, use extra long setscrews for studs, red loc***e into the case. Standard old hex nuts, just normal tightening. Extra thick gasket glued to the cover. I'd try to find the bluish green stuff they use for industrial pipe flanges. You can buy it by the sheet and make your own gasket. No glue between the gasket and rear end. Gasket should last a long time before needing replacement.
Good Luck.

 

Remove one bolt at a time and replace with stud and nut/washer=no mess to deal with....

 

I had exactly the same problem! My car has about 500 miles on it. Tightened the bolts and it stopped but I was left wondering if it was something I'd not done, ie torqued them up, or whether they back off some in use, eg through heat cycles. Anyone know? Also, mine still leaks ever so slightly. Is this normal? I'm not at a stage where I'd be happy to seal it up completely and don't know whether that will ever come as it seems to defeat the purpose of a QC, but continuously checking the level seems like a chore, but running dry even worse! I guess that's the folly of utilising race parts, that would see continual maintenance, on a road car that won't receive as much attention. I'm planning g on a lot of miles this year so I guess I'll just have to keep a close eye on it until I establish the rate of loss!

Chris

 

Thanks guys, appreciate the feedback. I think I am going to blue loc***e them. Like @Happydaze says the risk of running dry is too high and a lot of gear oil can leak out in a hurry if those bolts back out. I don’t see myself changing the gears often, or ever.