Projects 1961 Chrysler basket case, mild custom

I guess I always assumed the quarter panel stampings were the same between 60 and 61 but I'm not exactly sure. I definitely do like the '60 tail lights better though, or '60 DeSoto if you could find a pair of those somehow.

 

The 60 Desoto tail lights are gorgeous, but the housing is definitely different.

 

I, uh, almost forgot that channel isn't stock, and the whole rear foot of the car had been grafted on.
It's welded in place-any reason I can't fill the seam with lead? I'm aware I need to clean the snot out of it, first.

 

I think they originally were filled with lead, so that'd be the traditional way to fill it in again, as long as you can get it clean enough first.

 

....you know, it never occured to me that's likely a factory seam. I have to do the other side, too.

 

I would like to see your whole process for leading. What and where you get your materials would be helpful too.

 

I bought the Eastwood lead free kit. My wife has a doctorate in biochemistry and has objections to real lead.
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-standard-lead-free-body-solder-kit.html

So anyway, clean the snot out of the area, no dirt, rust, grease. Wipe it down with thinner. I use an acid brush and spread tinning butter in the area (and well beyond the area) I want to put solder on. Heat that crud up until it's brown, wipe it down with a clean rag until it's shiny, neutralize the area with baking soda, clean with thinner, heat up the panel and slowly build some lead up onto it, shaping it with paddles that have beeswax on 'em.

Gene Winfield taught me at one of his classes.

Just need to find the right temp between too hard to work and running off the panel. I'm told practicing in sandals will make you learn in a hurry.

 

"Just need to find the right temp between too hard to work and running off the panel. I'm told practicing in sandals will make you learn in a hurry." Bwaahahhahha...

So, how did you find the temp-differential to be for the eastwood kit, between solid, mushy, liquid? Easy to find n work with, or quite touchy(very little difference)(like trying to gas-weld thin aluminum sheet w/o the blue lens. That was fun...)?

Not being funny or snarky here: I get the lead-in-the-body/brain-thing(& no, I don't want lead in my water-pipes), but I assume no black powder rifles/pistols for you - much less casting your own bullets? & same for regular soldering? I've had to use the no-lead solder stuff, & I really don't like to work w/it at all. Although I also don't know how well it holds up over time compared to normal old-time solder as far as "lead-rotting" goes. If the lead free stuff is so much better, maybe that'll work well on new-but-old-style-brass-n-copper-radiators(esp the honeycomb ones), but I haven't heard that anyone uses it. Also wondering just how flexible the no-lead body-solder is compared to the old stuff? Or doesn't it make any difference?

Seriously, are you doing everything no-lead? & how are the substitutes working out? Always willing to learn new "tricks" of change for good reason(s). We all make choices, 1st-hand knowledge/recos are welcomed. I'm seriously wondering just where the line gets drawn(or where to draw it. W/o getting political...)???

"My wife has a doctorate in biochemistry" = This could be very interesting. .
I'm seriously thinking: Lucky you. .
TIA.
Marcus...