This sort of feels a bit OT, but I think there's quite a few here that run the Carter Weber setup. I have a 235 with dual Carter/Weber on an Offenhauser intake. My issue is the cold running choke setup doesn't seem to be working properly. I have to hold the throttle open for several minutes when cold, or the idle drops too much. Once warm, engine runs very well. Is there actually any choke adjustment on these? I'm familiar with the kind that you loosen a few screws, and you rotate the choke, but these don't seem to have that option? The chokes do have a wire going to them, and the chokes do get very warm/hot after a few moments.
I have those too. Mine do have a conventenial choke housing that is adjustable. Maybe a picture of what you have.
Different that mine. Have you tried to adjust them? Is the choke plate closed when the engine is cold?
Looks like that to me too. An emission thing for sure. You could cut off one set of tits or the other and it would turn. Most of the Autolite/Ford/Motorcraft/Holleys that I work on have a cap that is 2" in diameter with ~ 2 3/16" OD lip. If that is a match, you can get replacement plain or electric caps for them all over. No tits. Plain are cheap, electric, not so much. New bi-metal coils are available separately too. First one I found https://quadrajetparts.com/plastic-choke-ford-holley-carter-deep-p-1374.html . Looks close from here. Mike
I tried to adjust, but they don't rotate. Plates are closed when engine is off and cold. As soon as I start, they are open a bit. Not quite 45 degrees, but close. Pulling the wires (they have voltage when running), makes no difference.
If they’re a standard cap, you might be able to buy the manual choke conversions. I’ve done that before on electric and heat activated chokes. I’m old, I learned how to run manual chokes.
Well, see, that's what I'm wondering about. Not having a manual, or even a model number to find one, I can not answer whether the fast idle screw is active. I don't know where it is.
I’m assuming it’s like a Weber 32/36 that are pretty common over here. If it is, look between the circular cast choke body that the electric module fits in and the main body of the carb. There is a shaft that comes out of the bi metallic spring that moves the choke flap and from it a screw that operates a cam on the throttle plates.
Guys, thank you so much! The screws were missing. Found a couple screws and lock nuts. 10-32 worked, in case someone stumbles on this later. So far it's working great. Nice high idle when starting. I'll have to let it cool down and give it another try dead cold.
Now I'm curious why it even has voltage going to them? Assuming it makes them heat quicker for emissions?