i have searched this topic, and havent found my question. i am moving my battery to the trunk, purely to clean up the engine compartment, weight distribution is secondary. for those of you who have done this, did you route your cables thru the p***enger compartment or along the frame rail? pros/cons either way? thanks -josh
ive routed the cables both ways. i prefer to have them in the p***enger compartment on a lowered car just so i know for sure they wont get mangled up if the frame bottoms out. and the only cars ive ever owned that werent lowered are the ones i have not had for very long. -j
My circle track car has them routed through the ****pit. I did't want them getting pinched if a jack slipped or something. Besides, my fuel line ran along the inside of the right framerail so I didn't want those two things next to each other.
I ran mine in the frame with convoluted tubing on it for abrasion protection. You only have to route the positive since you ground the negative to the frame. It is inside the frame and clipped so there should not be any issue.
Well on my 55 Chevy Street car I ran my gas line on the out side of the frame, to keep it away from the the mufflers and heat. I ran the pos. cable on the side[inside] of the frame with no problems.
Make sure you have plenty of ground straps on the engine to the frame or route a ground cable from the batt to the engine with the positive cable.
thanks guys, my fuel line also shares the same rail i would be using for the cable. crosley- i have heard that there could be charging issues if i dont ground the engine. i was planning on running a section of unused cable. block to frame, (i have 20ft!) i think i'll end up routing it thru the p***enger compartment, thanks again!
I ran mine on my 53 chevy on the inside of the frame. Fuel line is on one side, and the battery cable is on the other side. Just pick up some of those clamps from Speedway or something, the ones with the rubber on them, drill or tack them to the frame to keep the cable from falling down. They're cheap as hell, so use a bunch of them. Just be wary of where you ran the cable when it comes time to jack the car up. I agree also with the grounding straps from the engine to the frame. Its a personal choice I guess on where to run the cable. I don't really think there's an advantage either way on running it on the frame or inside the car.
I find too many disadvantages to running the battery in the trunk, so I put them under the hood where they traditionally belong. sure makes it easy to get thru tech at the dragstrip too
I do automotive electrical ---both at my job and as a side business. I always run my positive cables thru the floor (with GOOD gromets--no cheap junk) then down the inside of the frame rail---mount the battery on the starter side of the car---I know this may sound stupid but you should see some of the **** I've seen done with wiring.I also use Optima-type batteries as much as possible---they mount at any angle and no vapors--so you can seal up the battery in a box instead of just a tray.And----LOTS OF GOOD GROUND STRAPS---most of the cranking/power problems I get turn out to be ground problems.
I've had mine in the trunk for about 5 years now. I used heavy gauge cable, and routed it along the inside of the frame. I've got a ground strap in the rear, one in the front, and one at the engine. I drilled a couple holes in the trunk floor and used good grommets. The battery box is one of those in-expensive plastic, boat type jobs with the straps to hold the lid on. Works great.
I'm also wanting to do this, my battery is just setting on the frame (not safe at all) where can I get the cable and what size is best? My car is still 6 volt positive ground will it make any differance at all when I convert to 12 volt negative ground in the near future? I have screwed up to 8 volt batterys from the answers to this post I'm guessing that I am not getting a good ground. 36RRC
use at least #1 cable on the 6 volts..then you will also be really ready for the 12 volt conversion. Napa or Carquest has the cable by the foot , and the ends you need napa also has #1 cable premade in different lengths with ends on them. stay away from those cheap #4 gauge premade cables. i like to run the ground cable right to the block by the starter . then a ground cable to the frame from that spot on the block . then also run a ground strap to the body (***uming it's steel) from that same spot on the block
i forgot to mention , the copper ends will have to be crimped or soldered on. a lot of the rod parts suppliers have been selling these screw together cable ends...i have used them and have had good luck
for total overkill, I run 1/0 welding cable with crimped and soldered lugs. It's very pliable, so it's easy to route, despite its bulk. I use red and black heat shrink tube to identify the pos/neg. Both cables run on the frame rail up to the starter, the ground cable either to one of the starter bolts or to a bolt on the block. Also use the 1/0 for the engine to frame ground. I use lighter cable or wire for the body to frame and body to engine grounds. Plastic marine box, Optima battery, and side mount bolts or marine terminals finish it out. The only drawback to this setup is the cost of copper has gone through the roof.
ok, well heres the finished product. i used #2 cables, and a 6volt optima red top battery, got a killer deal from www.1st-optima-batteries.com $129 and free shipping!!!! check 'em out, i couldnt be happier. anyway, i mounted it in an ammo can. had to trim the lid for the battery top, but this also makes the battery itsself secure in the box. i bolted the box to the trunk floor, and ended up running the cable on the inside of my drivers side frame rail, opposite of the fuel line. i secured the cable with 1/2 inch adel clamps. all in all i think it came out looking clean. oh, btw my car is still 6volt positive ground. thanks for all your input, i really appreciate it. -josh
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