Can I set up an overdrive R11 where it’s inly off or on? It would be nice to byp*** all of the extra stuff like kick down ****on etc
Not really.... What needs to be understood is the OD can't be shifted in and out of OD without most of the 'extra' stuff, as well as opening the door to trans/OD damage if not operated properly manually. If installed and used as-designed it's a fabulous cruising transmission that will deliver excellent fuel economy, although they can be a bit fragile if abused.
You can, I have seen me do it. You just need to install a switch that provides 12V to the shift solenoid. Operation goes something like this: Accelerate up through the gears - 1,2,3. Get to cruising speed. Flip the switch. OD will engage once the load is removed from the trans (i.e. take your foot off the throttle). Get back on the throttle, and Turn the switch off. OD will remain engaged as long as there is a load on the trans. If you pedal it again, OD will disengage and you will be back in 3rd gear. You can leave the switch "On" with power to the solenoid constantly. I never did that on mine, I was always afraid of it burning out. Though those fears were most likely unfounded. I did install the lock-out cable as well, but never used it. But, like Steve said, this is not ideal and takes away a lot of the automatic functionality of the transmission. The wiring isn't that hard. I got my hands on a complete harness out of a Galaxie and converted mine over to full automatic, and it was much more fun to drive, until I stripped teeth off of 1st gear anyways...
Thank you both for your input! I suppose I have some things to weigh on. I found a trans recently but does have any of the old electronics with it.
here are some alternatives. save some bucks on the relay and use a starter relay from a mid-'60s mopar. the local napa let me go through their catalog, and i paid maybe $30 for one.
I have two in use with a push/pull switch on the dash. You can use any switch and any relay to activate it, but you will still need a good functioning 12v solenoid on the transmission. You can byp*** the governor and you don't need a kickdown switch, just flip the dash switch off to kick down.
You have to have the solenoid to operate the OD; that's what does the actual shifting. If it has the governor also, the rest of the bits are fairly easy to acquire although you'll need to get the kickdown switch from a specialty supplier. Do install the OD cable, that enables/disables the OD and if you don't disable the OD when parked the car will roll away in gear unless it's put into reverse, plus when enabled you have no engine braking. Not a big deal if you live on the flatlands, but not good going down long steep hills; you can run out of brakes. AMHIK. If you're using electronic ignition, there's a bit of monkey-motion involved for kickdown. If you do full manual operation, make SURE the trans is fully unloaded when shifting in/out of OD or you'll damage the shift pawl.
Here’s a link to the manual http://www.oldwillysforum.com/forum/TechData/BWOverdriveManual.pdf there’s also a discussion right now on the Ford barn for the main control relay and subs***utes. Van Pelt sales probably has a much in the way or parts, mechanical and electrical, as anyone.
I've done it like stated above by FrozenMerc. I used the solenoid, a toggle switch, a o/d cable and aftermarket relay (so no governor or kick down switch). This was in my '64 Panel which was my daily driver for about 10 yrs before I sold it......the new '56 panel has o/d but it's all fancy with all factory parts. I do kinda miss shifting into o/d on the fly though. Drive 1,2,3 gears Push the cable in Flip the toggle switch and at the same time let off the gas You'll feel a slight clunk and you're in o/d Back on the gas -This way you can let off the gas or downshift in traffic and still be in o/d- To turn off o/d: Push the clutch in Flip the toggle switch and wait for the clunk Then push the cable in Let the clutch out and you should be out of o/d Or Wait until you've stopped and then Clutch in Toggle off Cable in and go. With the cable pushed in you won't have engine braking. Here's my ****py wiring diagram from the early 2000's
I know this thread is a year old but I would like to know from the guys that have done this. If you pull the cable out it prevents the solenoid from going full stroke and if the solenoid does not go full stroke the "PULL" coil will stay energised right? As I understand it, the plunger must travel so far to activate the switch inside the solenoid that turns off the "PULL" coil leaving just the "HOLD" coil energised. It that right? And if so, will the higher draw of the heavier "PULL" coil burn it out? I guess this can also happen with the stock wiring when you pull the cable out, so I guess it would be ok, just not sure. I have noticed that some of these units have a "lock out switch" at the end of the rail, the function of this is to turn off the circuit when the cable is pulled, either as a safety or to protect the coil. Neither of my R-11 units have this "lock out switch" the threaded hole where it would be is factory plugged. Any thoughts on this?
I’v heard nothing but good stuff about Herm the overdrive guy he should be able to answer all your questions https://hermtheoverdriveguy.com/contact-information
Gents, I have an OT vehicle with an automatic transmission feeding a transfer case. I have an adapter piece to bolt the OD to the transfer case on the rear drive side. Do any of you know if you can use the OD with an automatic trans? Herb was trying to sell me a similar unit years ago, but never answered my question about having an automatic in front of the OD.
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