Technical F100 steering box n 34 ford pickup help?

The details; 34 pickup, 59a engine, reds header (for 34 w/ f100 box), f100 steering box, 34 steering tube and column drop, 34 dash panel. Cab is bolted in place but not shimmed as door and hood is not fitted yet.

So far I have followed Vern Tardels modifications to install f100 box and all is well except this step “ insert the sleeve of the steering box through the flange and the frame with 1/2” protruding to the outside. “

With the box in place as described above the steering tube hits the steering tube notch in the bottom of firewall. It appears as though I need to cut away one side of this factory notch? Does this sound right?

It also appears that the steering tube will be roughly 1/2” too long to allow the column drop holes to alight with dash mounting holes? This can be easily trimmed at the bottom of tube with tin snips.

 

I would start by getting the steering wheel exactly where you want it then build the box mount/angled wedge to suit.

 

I went with the Tardel method of cutting off the original flange because I didn’t want to modify the frame. I understood if I used original flange I would need to use a wedge spacer.

So do I need to use a wedge if welding on a new flange? And can the sleeve of the steering box protrude less than 1/2” outside the frame or if less than 1/2” will I have an issue with adding outside plate and Pittman arm?

 

Isn't the Tardel method written for installing the box in an AV8?

Line the box up so the steering shaft is in line with both your column drop and the notch in the firewall. Re-flange sector housing as necessary to allow that fitment. Install the pitman arm to check frame clearance.

You don't need to use a wedge if you're putting the new flange at an angle that matches the frame rail.

 

As stated, I believe the Tardel book is referring to a 48-52 F1 box in a Mobel A frame, which is a different animal than a 53-56 F100 box in a 34 frame. The F100 box has a relatively short sector shaft, so it is important to mock it up with the pitman arm on to make sure it protrudes through the frame far enough that the pitman arm will clear the flange mounting bolts, but not too far so that your column tube is still centered between the pedals. Sometimes the clutch pedal will need to be heated and bent to clear.

Here is my fixture for welding that flange in place, but the same can be done in the frame with the column attached to the dash.



And a finished (re-flanged) 53-56 F100 box set up for a 33-34 Ford. The seal bore was recut after the flange was welded in place. Also note, the sector shaft has been splined to take an orginal pitman arm. That part is not necessary, just what was requested on this build.

 

Very nice job!

 

Tardel book does cover f1 or f100 boxes and how to fit them in 32, 33-34, 35-36. Thanks for the advice.

Neal, I will reassemble box with Pittman arm to fit it right.

 

Ahh, I forgot about the "let me help you" series of books, I was thinking about the AV8 books. I just grabbed a copy of that book off of the interwebs for future reference.

 

Hey Neal - great work as always!

 

So am I correct to assume that it really doesn’t matter how much of the steering box sector sleeve protrudes on the outside of the frame as long as:

1) sector shaft sticks out far enough for Pittman arm to slide on
2) Pittman arm has clearance from steering box to frame bolts, Pittman arm doesn’t hit the frame in range of motion.
3) Pittman arms “hangs” at 90 degrees (meaning box is square with top of frame)
4) column drop bolt holes align with dash mounting holes
5) steering column and wheel are not off center in the cab ( too far left or right) as seen from drivers seat
6) steering wheel has clearance from windshield, dash, door, etc so that my knuckles don’t drag.

obviously this is my first time doing this so let me know if I missed anything or over thinking this.

 

Your last post pretty much covers it all. I hate to say don't over think it but steering geometry is critical for a comfortable ride. As stated above, put the wheel where you are comfortable then make it fit. I made a wedge between frame and box to get column into column drop on my 29 AV8. Had to plate the firewall where column used to be. Good luck

 

Update: finally got the f100 steering box fitted by a little more grinding of the sector sleeve on the box as well as holes in the mounting plate/frame/outside plate so that the Pittman arm hangs at 90 degrees. I picked up a complete 40 ford pickup column/box to rob the steering tube from to match up with the 40 pickup wheel. The top of the tube has the proper bell that matches the wheel. I’ve trimmed 1-1/2” from the bottom of the ‘40 tube so that the factory holes in the tube for the column drop line up with my original 34 pickup drop. NOW it appears as though the steering wheel is too far from the dash and doesn’t look right and tube now needs to be shortened between the column drop and wheel by roughly 3”.

should I cut a section of the tube out between column drop and wheel and weld back together? Or trim off more at the bottom of the tube to get the length right and then recut holes at column drop?

 

Yes

 

Just FYI the F 100 box has 2 different column lengths the 53/5 has a longer shaft and a flat steering wheel and the 56 has a dished steering wheel and a shorter column, don’t know about the later ones
You’re on the right track shortening shaft and column. You have to splice the shaft for key vs spline anyway
Pick your poison on shortening above the column lock holes or below and re cut the holes fill the old ones
Sure makes a nice looking setup when finished though

 

I shorten the column tube in the middle, so the weld ends up hidden by the column drop. Doing this allows you to get rid of the old column lock holes, rather than having to weld them up.

 

Thanks everyone. Good idea Neal.

 

Ok gents more questions on my steering. I have my steering box rebuilt and bolted into the frame so I can get measurements to build my drag link. I am using an original f100 Pittman arm that has a slight bent near the bottom end (End where the tapered hole is for tie rod).

if I mount the Pittman arm with bent end pointing outbound (tie rod end of drag link is outbound side of Pittman arm) the driver’s side tire hits the drag link before spindles hits stop nut on full left turn.

If I mount Pittman arm with bent end pointing inboard (tie rod end of drag link inboard of Pittman arm) I have tire clearance on driver’s side but Pittman arm stops against bottom of frame rail before spindle hits stop nut on full right hand turn. I assume this is more desirable mounting of Pittman arm?

I also noticed the spindle connecting rod bumps the back edge of the front crossmember at full left or right turn.

 

Bump. Any ideas? Anybody.

 

You can bend or straighten the pitman arm to find a happy medium. Your truck had the original arm bent slightly inward at the bottom, and the tie rod end was on the inside. But your F-100 box and arm are probably offset a bit differently, and maybe even a different length.

 

You may need to use a longer spindle stop nut, or add an extra lock washer behind your existing one.
I have always run original 32 pitman arms with the draglink on the inside. My last pickup did want to stop against the bottom of the frame when turning tight to the right.

 

I’ll take a look at adding some washers once I have my drag link made. Thanks for the ideas.