I agree with your measurements of the wheelbase and the positioning of the front crossbrace along the axle. This is why I adjusted mine from the 105 I was getting with the original chevy front end to the 114 based on the "new" temporary radiator crossmember mount I place in. That gave me the 114 and created the correct length for the hood to attach to the grill mount. Of course, right now everything is within an inch or two as I haven't got things perfect yet. I still think the rear wheel is too far forward and that is something I want to look at closer next before I weld in any cross member. Still looking for the length of the Radiator support rods for a 34 PE. I found some stainless rod I can thread on my own that is 48in. I can heat and hammer the one side flat and thread the other. Or I can just mount it more like a Ford and do threaded on both sides.
I mate of mine is into 33/34 Mopar stuff - he has had a few coupes, a roadster and a couple of pickups. There is lots of differences between all of the models that isn't obvious at first glance i.e. wheel base, cowls, body pressings, suspensions etc. That being said, they are a really well built vehicles with lots to like about them. Certainly in Australia there isn't as much available 'off the shelf' as a Ford. Here are some pics of his Coupe that is my favorite - inspiration perhaps Thank for posting your build Cheers Turns
Awsome coupe! Is that an A833 4 speed behind that Chrysler Hemi? A blown early Hemi with a 4 speed in there should be a handfull.
First....thanks for the PE rod measurements of 35. I'm going to remove my sides of the hood and brace the radiator better to allow me to test mount. My first go made it seem like 40 was the number. Turn Love the car. Inspiration for sure! I got my 34 Plymouth headlights yesterday, but I have a couple questions. 1. One headlight with the horn, there was an outer chrome bezel and in internal bezel that connected to the inner ring with springs that held the headlight. This internal bezel is toast. Rusted out and weak. 2. The second headlight didn't have the outer or inner bezels. It has the turn signal in the reflector and that attached to the inner ring with springs. (Glass is long gone on that one) My questions Am I missing an outer bezel on the light with turn signal? If I get halogen or led headlights with modern wiring, can I just use 7inch new mounting hardware (like from a Harley, it looked the same as my internal bezel).? Assuming yes, I can use a aftermarket inner bezel, and the 2nd light doesn't require the outer bezel ....do I need bezels at all if I do the same mounting system in both lights? I feel like I'm missing a bezel and that may be hard to acquire
They didn't have turn signals. That would be a park light. That rusted out piece is an aftermarket adapter for a sealed beam bulb. They didn't use a headlight ring. The glass lens kinda twists in and is spring loaded. I would switch to hot rod headlights like BLC or Guide. Dave
On my 33 I have some light buckets of unknown lineage but they came with an inner piece to hold a sealed beam. I bought some halogen lights from united pacific that also came with built in amber leds that function as turn signals. There are nice because they are not noticeable when off and they save me the effort of having to add some external turn signals. Plus nice and bright for night drives
Thanks guys. I now understand how the original worked(one left in pic) and how an aftermarket change was done (one on right). I have some lights and parts from my 50 Chrysler I can use to hopefully test fit how I want it. Not switching buckets if I don't have to.
Lights from 50 won't work without mods, but I think I have everything now....if lenses I ordered are right. I moved the body forward to get the rear tires centered. Didn't get to do this last week, but I needed inspiration! Based on mock up....my radiator is 28in high. Max mounting it on the 32 Ford cross member makes make height of 21.5in. the rods for the hood will be 35 as other states, so my previous attempt for mock up was the issue
The body really has great proportions stock. Lowered a few inches from where it sits now would give a better idea of potential ride height, I suspect. Those rear leaf springs appear to have quite a bit of arch, but you have to work with what you have at this point.
Front end is on jack stands with no suspension/axle. Rear is leaf springs and YES, it sits toooo high for me. I did this mainly to position the body and the Hood/Sides so I would know where to put my crossmember....in doing so, I noticed the angles of the sides on the hood force the current radiator to sit low. That won't work with the 32 crossmember. This boy will be low when done with a slight rake.
I used a '28-'29 Model A Champion aluminum hot rod radiator in my '33 with '34 shell and aftermarket '28-'32 front buggy spring crossmember. Dave
Do you have a part number for that radiator or at least the height. Maybe my measurement was slightly off of 21.5. I think I took that from the mounting bracket for rods and not the dead center.
I’ve found that a 65/66 Mustang radiator fits most of the grill shells. Fits right up to factory air dam sorry about bad pic. Only one I have
Yes, I see the GT one fits my dimensions. Probably have to mode brackets is all. Should easily cool a 331 as well
Next question....for the 331. Do I want Driver or passenger ports on the radiator My motor is really just a block with heads. I tried to do a little research on that topic. I saw thermostat is passenger/middle. So wondering about the lower
I figured out the 331 radiator question by talking with HotHead Mopar. I'm going to run the Chevy water pump for ease of replacement which means driver top passenger bottom. What I do need is a 331 Hemi crankshaft. I don't have one and there is no aftermarket. This weekend I'll put up a wanted ad when I get the numbers off my motor. In the meantime I thought I'd post here to start the process.
Well I ended up going in direction number 3 for the front end. A deal came up I couldn't pass on. Ended up mostly chrome....at less than the raw price I got a superbell 4inch drop axle with panhard. It came with 4 bar, I'm going to sell those and do the hairpins. I prefer that look. Brakes are 82 monte Carlo setup. So if my spare trailer tires don't fit....gonna buy the real deal instead for the roller
Update on my motor from HotHeads CE565076 is a 354 out of a 56 Chrysler Imperial. So now I can search for a crank with confidence
Try Gary at Quality Engineered Components. He specialises in early Hemi stuff and may have your crank. He is a member here and goes by 73RR.https://redirect.viglink.com/?forma....M.B.&txt=www.qualityengineeredcomponents.com
SO glad you're ditching the parallel front spring set up ! (the 'wavy' was different but yuk on the springs) Nice catch on the super bell. Either 8" rear should hold up if you don't side step the clutch nor have wide slicks on 'em. The clutch & pressure plate will act as your fuse (maybe!) 6sally6
I was never doing dual leaf ..yuck the springs need some help or I'll get new ones. They will work for mockup for now I'm most likely doing Ford 9 rear instead of the 8.
Today I made a simple body cart and used a Northern Tool Gantry to remove the body so I can do some frame stuff. This setup made moving the body on/off a one person job...better with 2 people to assist alignment. Got it on my trailer to move to a new location
That picture of the black angle chopped Dodge with the windshield laid back a bit sure looks good and mean. Opinions are like bellybuttons but I think an angle chop with a windshield lean is awesome.
Same. Lean the window, chop the back. We all got opinions, but until you help chop or foot a bill.....you don't get a say. Though I don't want it to look gawdy.
Proportions are tricky. If the only person you aim to make happy is yourself then theres your guide! If you want the crowd in the know to appreciate it then things get trickier. Something a guy like bad chad doesnt quite get. Something a Gene Winfield or a George Barris understands quite well... the general consensus is that these cars get over chopped QUICK. They have great profiles stock. I'm not saying its not possible to make it look good. Mines chopped 1" and looks great imo. You are correct about bellybuttons, just wasnt really what I was diggin in!
I left mine stock. Could have chopped it but why spend another Winter working on it. As Oliver said "if the only person you aim to make happy is yourself then there's your guide".
Agree with you all. I'm making myself happy, it's getting chopped. The end result? Who knows? Now more importantly, does anyone have a lead on a passenger 1/4 rear window moulding? That's the only interior piece I'm missing.
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