I have a ‘28 model A and I am going to have enough power in to warrant a rear end with that is a little more stout. I realize that this may seem a real stupid question but I won’t know if I don’t ask. It doesn’t appear to me to be all that difficult to install a more modern rear axle in. Is there more to it than welding on attachment points for the stock transverse leaf spring and dealing with the E-brake? I know that the early explorer axles work well. Thanks
What’s gonna hold the axle in place? Wishbones? Ladder bars? Thought about the crossmember needed to mount those?
You will also need either ladder bars, 4 bars or some other way of locating the axle. I used pete and jakes ladder bar. https://www.peteandjakes.com/parts/part-3516-ladder-bar-with-clevises-bushings-and-bolts-pair/ Phil
What engine and transmission are you going to run? If I remember correctly guys like to use the rear end from a Ford Bronco to get the 5 on 5 1/2 bolt pattern. Charlie Stephens
B motor with cam, high comp head, twin carbs, headers T5 trans Yes I am aware that the closed driveline will have to go. Maybe I should start every post with “because I want to” I really shouldn’t have to justify what I want (or at least am thinking of) to do in order to get an answer. This is probably just a hypothetical question anyway. Nobody has actually answered my question, only thrown up roadblocks.
I have a Ford 8" out of a Maverick in my '29 Roadster behind a banger. Still has the buggy spring with a P&J 4 bar set up and an open driveline. It handles all 86 hp at the rear wheels just fine.... Just welding attachment points and the E brake is using the cables and the '29 hand brake
Remember bigger rears like 9 inch use up hp just to turn them.A 8 inch,or a lighter axle from a Ranger,or S10 might be a good choice.
Please accept my sincere apology, I was only looking for more information to give you a better response. I have trouble working with only part of the information. I will try not to bother you in the future. Charlie Stephens
Stock axle is fine with a tuned banger. It’s all I’ve ever used. I’ve always stuck with torque tube and a three speed too, but you can get an open drive kit for the A axle.
Agreed...the A axle is plenty for the few more horsepower and if you are really looking for cool.... can you say quick change
I think the go-to is an early v8 axle. Sturdy enough and might be less work. Have you never posted on a forum like this? Everyone approaches a question from their perspective, most are wary of throwing out a solution without knowing what you have to work with. Try not to get rattled.
Warrior, I’m just looking for the basics at this point (which I’m sure I did not make clear (I just don’t understand why you guys can’t read my mind)) is this; if I intended to keep the buggy spring can I weld spring perches on to the housing? Or maybe one of the gazillion suppliers has a bolt on or clamp on arrangement? I understand that I also have to deal with the driveline and some type of replacement for the radius rods.
That last post was supposed to go out yesterday so it might have some things in it that are out of sequence. I have learned that it is indeed possible to weld on spring perches (there is even a kit to do it on a V8 axle). I agree that maintaining the banjo look would be preffered. I guess my original post was not clear. All I was asking is: is it ok/possible to weld spring perches on the top of an axle (any axle, this is a hypothetical question) so that it can be used with the buggy spring? I am new to the world of fabrication and am in the middle of taking welding cl***es which opens up a whole new world of possibilities to me. My big problem is width and I can’t afford anything wider that an A axle so I most likely would have to narrow something. I think narrowing the housing itself would be no big problem but sourcing the actual axle shafts would be a challenge. This all started because I have an aluminum Buick motor that is also a possibility (even in stock configuration it’s over 150 HP, definitely too much for a Model A axle) Since posting my original question I have learned that you can weld spring perches on to most any axle as long as you address the radius roads, the open driveline, brakes, bolt pattern. I may not need this axle for a year but I have learned to start shopping parts as early as possible. Although this stuff can be a h***le I think it’s fun to do.
Since you’re running a banger, I’d want to keep a banjo style rear under it. There are some older threads where others have put the later V8 rears using cut down model A rear spring mounts bolted to the V8 rear using the A rear spring over.
The main concern with using the factory buggy spring on a modern rear end is going to be fitting the spring perches between the backing plates. Also, you may need a spring spreader or something else to allow you to do it. Otherwise, yes it is possible to weld the perches to any housing.
I was able to get some additional measurements from the V8 axle that is for sale The width of the Banjo is 3 7/8” Axle tip to axle tip is 68” Will that help to identify it? 05 you are right, I can see that the width of the spring can be a problem. I suppose a custom main leaf would possibly be required. I own a spring spreader so I’m ok in that department
The original A rearend has spring eyelets at 48.5 inches apart IIRC. Make sure whatever rear you use will allow brackets welded that far apart. Or you will need that custom spring.
My car has a 40-42 rear axle and a 350 Chevrolet with a glide. It has an open drive shaft. The rear spring was from the same car as the diff.
Under my '31 Coupe I used an 8" Ford rearend that I narrowed on one side to achieve about the same wheel mounting surface width as a Model A axle. Instead of the 31" and 27" axles I replaced the 31" with a cut-to-fit axle from Yukon and cut it to ~29" to replace the 31" axle. To lower the car a bit I used a Model T spring but had the eyes straightened, cut off about 1" per side and rolled to be reversed eyes for a bit more drop. St. Louis Spring did the spring modifications for me at a cost of about $100-$150, but I don't recall the exact cost. It was also about 4 or 5 years ago so I'm sure it would cost more now. Then located the rearend with home-made ladder bars mounted real close together at the front on a mount tube arrangement that I built, so the front urethane rod ends would be even with the front driveshaft U-joint. That allowed some articulation of the rearend and also kept the slip joint movement to a minimum. I hope this helps but YMMV. Lynn
I've got a stock 31 coupe which I'm getting ready to upgrade. My first step is to upgrade the transmission to a t-5 which I've bought a t-5 from a S10 4x4 and a kit to install it. While I have the rear end out to shorten the Torq tube, I'm going to install a Posie reversed eye spring to lower the rear. In the front I've got a 4" dropped axle and spindles from Okie Joe along with a Posie reversed eye spring and a wishbone setup ready to go in. While up in the air, I'm going to stall Vega cross steering. All the parts are in a pile waiting for my hydraulic brake kit. There's a backup at the foundry for one part. I'm limited on the hydraulic brakes in order to use the 16" wire wheels. As for your rear end, I think that non synchro ****** will go before your rearend. You might be able to use a 32-38 banjo rearend and adapt the mechanical brakes.
Just a couple of thoughts. I think would use the early Ford pickup steering (contact Randy Gross, melmodela@aol.com, 714-292-8660) over on fordbarn. Do you have any details you could share on your hydraulic brake conversion? If you are planning on running 1940-48 drums and wire wheels be sure and use the necessary spacers (for the reason see: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1286293&posted=1#post1286293). Charlie Stephens
Already got square back spindles installed on axle and I like cross steering. Brakes. https://bolingbrothers.com/brake-kits-model-a/ I've also got 46 front and 40 rear brakes setting in the corner but I decided on the self energizing ones. Lots of money but a bolt in.
In other news, I got the diff, Lincoln brakes, wire wheel spacer, 16” wire wheels, full fenders mocked up today. Bottom line, going back to my first post is that everything is about 2” wide on each side. That’s pretty much what the Lincoln brakes add. That makes sense to me because although it was 2 years ago this same set up but with stock brakes all fit together pretty well and with sufficient tire/fender clearance. So now begins to search for a suitable replacement axle. A Chev S-10 10 bolt drum brake axle would work with spring perches welded on and a custom main spring (perches closer together, too close for a stock spring). What would be ideal is a V8 axle that had been narrowed but I am unaware of anybody doing this. I am not in a life a death rush on this because other projects remain to be done. It would be driveable as is if I did not fully lower the back and just let the tires stick out a bit.
The wire wheel spacer you mention is just the thin thing with a ridge for supporting the center of the wheel? Only adds maybe 1/8”?
That is corrrect. If my explanations are not clear the basic problem is that the Lincoln brakes add 3+ inches to the axle over stock and will hit the fender beads. I need a narrower axle.
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