sounds like this is your answer ! I had a similar problem so we made new centres for the wire wheels and drilled the stud pattern to suit the axle. Perhaps a possible solution ? Just seemed the logical fix to me, possibly the simplest from reading the first half of this thread. Sorry, - but it was just too overwhelming to read every post………… .
Yes Clem, this thread has got long. Probably could have covered it all in a 5 minute conversation but I written out requires much more. Amongst the various responses I believe I have worked out a course of action and I appreciate everybody’s help. I would like Dug to explain how the fenders could be widened because I like that idea best of all. I certainly do not have the skills to cut the fender, form a filler piece, and weld it back together. Possibly somebody makes a fiberglass fender to do the job but I think that that could get very expensive in a hurry. Perhaps I could just add the rubber flares like they use for 4 x 4’s LoL.
So this is what we did, widened 2 rear wheels two inches inwards, so hubcaps look the same . I doubt that you need the strengthening plates that were added, from the inner rim to outer rim, but at the time, ( early 1990), I was making noises about possibly running a big block. Wheel on the right best shows what I was trying to explain in my above post. I assume that it will fit over your brake drum ?
Depending on what the new axles cost and whether or not you will still need to shorten the rearend slightly............Why not just buy a 9" and shorten it? Then you already have the drums that fit and don't need to drill or change anything. You have axles that possibly could be shortened slightly without resplining or worst case you do have to get them shortened and resplined. You can buy 9" complete units for $150-$200 and sell your 8" for $100-$150. Should be cheaper in the long run. You do have to get one that has enough room on the axles to respline though, as some of them are tapered right where you need the splines. What I'm getting at is that if you get several things done to the 8" to make it work and something still doesn't jive with something else......then more $ to fix it. Start with a 9" and you only have to shorten the housing and axles. You can moch your wheels and whatever adapters up the right distance apart and simply make the 9" fill that space.......little chance of getting it wrong. When they respline the axles, get longer splines if possible incase you do have to narrow a little more. I like to make the rears about a 1/2" too narrow and then a thin spacer to get tires exactly where you want them.
If this is true, you and I need to form a partnership. Around here, 9" are apparently made from platinum and gold they way they are priced. With our newly formed partnership with you buying 9" dirt cheap there and me selling at the current rate here, we sould be raking in piles of cash in no time!
Sure, send me some money up front and I'll start lining them up for you. Here are 3 I bought in one day off the local Facebook and paid about $150 each. One had no drums but has a 3:70 ratio. Here is my personal rear end stock and I have several hog heads in the shed. Looked on Facebook yesterday before I posted and saw lots of them within driving distance of me for $250 to $150, and that was the complete or almost complete rear. Here are a few I found today and there were more. Fayetteville Tn $175 Greenburg In $300 Lima Ohio $200 Radcliff Ky $200 Whitehouse Ohio 2 for $175
Sorry to hear that. One thing I have seen is that people who advertise high often don't sell or take a long time to sell. It never hurts to make an offer for what you are willing to pay. I was just considering the costs to make all the mods to get the OPs 8 inch to work, and it seemed that a better solution was to just use a 9 to begin with.
I know this is probably not the answer that you are looking for, but I've got lots of maverick 8" rearends and I gave up trying to run 35 Ford wires on them so I just use a S10 rearend with Speedway adapters on it. 54.5" rearend with a pair of 1 1/4" adapters. I'll just save the maverick rearend for builds that I run steelies or magnesium Halibrands. I can usually find one for $75 or so if it has 3:42 gears or more for a 4:11
I hate ask about something not in this post , but I need some help . Anyone know what late model rim hoop will fit an early Ford 16in center . Thanks and sorry again
If you mean what around here is called a “beauty ring” just go to Speedway or other similar vendor and buy rings to fit a 16” wheel (you can choose between a couple styles). There is nothing more complicated than that.
Regarding a 9”, (1) I read over and over that they were too heavy for a Model A frame and a Banger motor. (2) I am trying to get the back end down as low as possible and the size of the housing under the stock crossmember could be a problem (3) you make some good points however (4) deffinately not available in the $200 range but I have not tried very hard to dicker because I wasn’t really looking for one.
RE 10 bolt, even starting with the S10 54” unit by the time all the adapters/spacers are installed it’s too wide. Also, and this might not be a huge deal but the 8” or 9” under a model A looks a lot better that a 10 bolt
I have a different solution then everyone else I think. Why not just run 16" mopar type wire wheel made by Kelsey Hayes, they are 4" wide (I believe) and They look killer just like Kelseys for a ford but they are cheap generally speaking and they are 5 on a 4.5 bolt pattern Here was a 5 second search on that one famous auction site to come up with this one.
And that’s a total mistake because the message was actually for Mr. Sharp. Mr Sharp, just to make you happy I have been poking around for 9” stuff. You are correct that there is a lot of stuff out there. I’m looking at a housing at 44” and 28 spline axles (obviously narrowed I figure it would be about 49” hub to hub which I could deal with I think) He’s asking 500, down from 700, I just offered him 200 and he has countered at 300. It’s a ferry ride ($50 round trip) and a long drive to get it. Whadda you think?
OP , where do you live ? I have a few dj jeep rears , centered differential. I’m in West Palm bch area
By the time I add all the adapters and spacers needed to make this work it would be near what I need. An extra spacer maybe required.
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