Projects My (new) 31 Model A Slant Window Fordor Sedan build

hmm, didn't expect that answer. I thought sure I'd catch hell from traditional guys for cutting up a good tank. Thanks for the info!

 

31 fenders won’t work with a 32 style frame. Not sure why you’d want to go through the trouble and fabrication of a 32 frame to just hide it under fenders. Note the 32 frame kicks upwards at the firewall and A’s don’t.

 

Also, if you intend to use the 32 gas tank in the rear, you’ll have to cut the lower rear panel of the body also to clear it. The body should be fit to the frame prior to doing any rear body repairs.

 

Thanks for the info guys. Yea I'm aware of the differences but I forgot about the kick up at the firewall. So for now my repair of the cowl feet is on hold until I decide on more details.

As far as a gas tank, not sure yet what I'm going to do but I do know it won't be the stock A tank. I might even make a custom tank depending on what I come up with.

I have a plan for the frame and fitting the A body, but not ready to share yet. Still need to work out a few details.

Also, in case anyone associated with the Ford Barn sees this, I've tried to register over there twice and still can't post or send messages. I'm looking for a 32 header panel above the windshield. Is that site broken or something?

 

Just an opinion/observation the Ford Barn has a lot of knowledgeable people, and an overabundance of "Experts" that make posting there uncomfortable. That type of hobbyist is the reason I've never joined any National Model A club in the past 60 years.

 

Regarding Ford Barn. There's a user over there with a 32 header panel I might be interested in, if it's not already sold. Since my registering needs to be approved (apparently) and isn't I can't message the guy. I'm getting pretty irritated frankly. Already tried twice, there won't be a third.
I've seen several comments here on HAMB that Ford Barn is a good place to search for parts, oh well, I guess I'll just put a wanted add here on HAMB and see what happens. Or if that fails I just make the damn thing myself. I can buy the inner as a repop., get a repop windshield frame and fit to that.

So, enough of this drama, I'll try and post actual build progress next post.

 

Not much progress on the Model A over the weekend, had to work on other projects. I did the get front "H" frame removed. I also started removing the fasteners for the rear panel (no pics yet). Once I get that panel removed I need to decide how much farther I'm going to tear the body apart.
I did finally rationalize how most model A bodies are tore down to individual pieces. It's because their framed with wood, especially the 4dr sedans and Vickies! (Thank you build threads!!)
My slant window is mostly all steel (as you experts pointed out to me early on and I had to digest all the new knowledge) so taking the body apart is definitely more difficult. I do still want to remove the quarter panels, but that will require drilling more spot welds and cutting a seam or two somewhere. So I still haven't completely decided yet.
Anyway a few pics.



That's all for now, thanks for looking in!

 

I guess your body has a bit more rust than mine, so the tear down is needed, I just think getting everything back and aligned is going to be a lot more work. Are your bottom hinges flat? I think mine are tweaked, and may need to be heated & bend to the correct shape.

 

Neat build and will follow if nothing else for the metal work! Call Bert's Model A for parts-he has a HUGE warehouse full of parts. As for the tank, you may want to get ahold of a local Model A club to see if someone has a trashed tank to cut up. I don't know where you are located but I guarantee some one will grab it. I would I know that.

Mike

 

never mind my previous dribble

A slant window is cool. I probably would not ditch the A chassis unless it is rusted out or I planned on a deuce chassis. I know a lot of guys build there own or buy a custom chassis but I still prefer to play with the original unless I am going to a later Ford unit like a deuce.

 

@D-Russ could help with info/link on 32 windshield header install.
@Steadfast mfg has Model A subrails to adapt body to 32 frame.
Finally, I have a 30/31 cowl that I cut the dash out of, many years ago. I'm near Chicago. Any idea how we can get it to you?

 

Thanks for the info guys.

Yea mine are flat, but wore out. Especially the driver side front which was booger welded and hacked up badly. I want to get new ones if I can find the correct ones. I'd like to get the ones from ModelAHinges.com, since they have new pins and bushings (the originals had no bushings). I may have to buy some and modify to fit my body style. Not sure yet....

As far as the rust, the body is not horrible as a whole, but yea there are problem areas. I always try to get rid of as much rust as I can on projects, then coat in Epoxy primer as I rebuild the body. I know I haven't talked much about that here, but there a lots of examples on my You Tube page. One day I hope the make some Model A content that guys here will be interested in.
Also I was a pro bodyman/collision repair tech for 10+ years so I understand about bracing and such when cutting bodies apart.

Yep, his thread was my inspiration for doing that mod.

I'm in Atlanta Ga. Maybe we can work out something?

I do have ideas for the frame and fitment to the body but not ready to share yet. They'll be a bit unconventional but should work. When I have more details I will share.

Thanks for now...

 

OK, more body teardown.
Got the rear panel out. The bottom is toast but won't be difficult to repair. The area of concern is the raised bead area on the panel edges It's metal (of course) and mostly rotted away on both sides. If I want to keep it (and I think I do) I'll need a way to fab new ones. Maybe start with round rod and sand/grind down. (sounds not fun...)


The rear floor area and the corners are pretty rough (as to be expected). I'm still making a game plan for rust repair on the rear half. I will be making a new floor for the rear as well as new fender wells but I do need a plan before I start cutting stuff up. Some amount of bracing will be required to keep things in shape. The box tube section below the floor pan is also shot, I think these might be available in repop unless I decide to make my own.


I'm still deciding what to cut out next and how to do it. I am probably taking body disassembly too far, certainly farther than most would - but hey that's just me.
That's all for now...

 

You need a chassis to determine how that rear floor section needs to be. I'm at the same stalled spot, selling off stuff to fund the '32 rail purchase. The T sections that fit on the sides of the rear panel are available in reproduction, no need to make them from scratch. Bob

This is a Steadfast subrail kit for A bodies on '32 frames. I plan to use one on my Steelback project.

 

Here's a nice Model A with the A frame and fenders, but 32 grill shell and bumpers, etc. Much like a 32 but still has good proportions.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...tally-buys-a-model-a-now-what.1111340/page-23

This would be a much easier build than 32 frame and some kind of fenders, elongated hood, etc.

Just my thoughts.

 

Time for a quick update. The body is now disassembled into subsections. I was trying to decide how to handle the quarter panels and decided to leave them together (not cut the skin from the inner structure, etc) I think this will accomplish my goals of separating the body and doing rust removal/treatment etc without being any more difficult than it was (not too bad actually...) I have already constructed a 4'x8'x1' electrolysis tank and have the floor soaking now. I don't have pics of that yet but I will try to post some soon. I've had to modify my electrode array twice to gain better performance so I'm still in the testing phase - sort of.

Also, I have posted a video of some of the body teardown to my You Tube channel if you'd like to check it out. I do plan to post more videos as the build progresses (if there is enough interest).


Now, pics...







That's all for now, thanks for looking in!

 

Time for a small update...
Not much work done on the model A lately, been busy with other projects and IRL stuff. BUT I have been running quarter panels in a large electrolysis tank I built. Electrolysis works great!
I usually let the part soak 30 - 40 hours which might be a tad longer than needed, but it doesn't hurt. Once the soak is over I do a quick sandblast to knock off the black coating the rust converts into. Sandblasting is so much quicker after electrolysis, the rust is gone and the black coating just blasts right off.

Below is a pic of the floor pan after soaking, I blasted the side areas as those are the only area of the floor pan I will be keeping. (The center section is in great shape if anybody needs it some day after I'm done with it) I still hate sandblasting but this method is so much easier..... The black and brown areas are not rust - they blast right off, the rust is gone!


Here's a few pics of the large tank in operation. I am working on a video showing how I put this setup together and what power supply I'm using (it's not a battery charger). As soon as it's finished I'll post the specs here, some result pics and the video link.
That's all for now, thanks for looking in!

 

When you get around to the video, be sure to explain how that thing is wired. I don't think the molasses soaking has any electricity involved.

 

Of course. But quickly for now, the positive side goes to the sacrificial electrode grid (fancy name for rebar or steel pieces wired together) and the ground goes to the piece being cleaned.
If you wire this backwards the piece you want to clean becomes the sacrificial piece and will dissolve if left in the tank long enough. So don't do that...

 

Sounds complicated already. What is wrong to just having an experienced sandblaster do the blasting?

 

Nothing. If that's what you prefer, then by all means do it. This is just the way I like to do it. It's simple, easy and not too expensive. I wanted to show how it's done to the people who'd like to try it.
I'm a science nerd at heart and an electronics tech by trade, so I'm not scared of or intimidated by electricity. The fact that this works amazes me. Every time I see rust particles, crud and even paint blow right off in tiny bits with just air from a blow gun makes me smile - knowing how difficult, hot (this time of year) and time consuming the same result would be from only sand blasting if I did it myself. So I use it.
I choose not to pay a blast pro to do this. If you have one you trust, that's great. One the flip side, a careless blaster can ruin sheet metal in an instant.
Hope that answers your concerns, I'm not trying to be arrogant or difficult. We all have our ways and this is mine, maybe someone else would like to give it a try and can learn from my example.

 

About 15 years ago I built my Sedan Delivery from a '31 Slantwindow. I too had looked for an affordale '32...and settled on a '31 Slantwindow...and then '32-ized it.
Although mine is fenderless, chopped and delivery-ized and is different from your build but I'm pretty well versed on these bodies and can probably be of some help.

You'll notice I sorta 32-ized it with rolled roof over the windshield and welded 1-1/4 inch strips of metal around the beltline to make it more like a '32.

I too had access to a '32 header and windshield frame to "roll the roof" but found too many problems. The '31 w/s frame was wider than the '32 and the bottom curve is different than the '31 which meant I would have to cobble together some kind of '31/'32 w/s frame. It made more sense to use the stock w/s frame and just roll some sheet metal to meet the '88 Ford van roof insert. I cut up a BLC headlight bucket to make the corners.

Also, I built it on a Model A frame and then bought some ASC '32 rails, cut and contoured them to exactly follow the '31 body curves, and mounted them out-rigger style to the Model A frame...so it actually had 2 frames under it.

 

Ok, We are Polar opposite, I draw the line at changing light bulbs, never had any electrical education in school.

 

Too funny Bob. I DO have some electrical background...and the first thing they teach you is: a positive lead plus a ground in liquid equals INSTANT DEATH

 

Great project, keep up the progress. Enjoying following along.

Here's the link to D-Russ' excellent transformation. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...header-in-a-31-model-a-w-lots-of-pics.321771/ Can't imagine a better upgrade for an A body. Awesome improvement.

 

Hello all, I've been away for too long so time for an update. I have been very busy with life stuff, but also with shop projects - just not much on the Model A but that is about to change. Since last fall I have reorganized my shop and bought some new tools to prepare for some serious work on the A this year. Lots of metal shaping projects coming up. I've spent some serious $$ on tools but these are tools I've wanted for years. More on those in a future post.
I was able to do my first small rust repair on the A to the door jamb section above the driver door. There was an area only about a foot long that was full of pinholes, so I tig welded the smaller ones up and made plans on how to fix the larger damaged areas. (That's where the new tools will be used).
I took a few pics of the work, shown below. I also posted a video on my you tube page if you're interested. I tried to do some arc shots of the tig welding and they did come out OK, but not great. I may or may not try again in the future.



You can see the pinholes and areas that were rusted through.
Here some of the pinholes are welded up, then ground down. Getting all the holes welded up took several passes of welding, grinding and repeating. I also mig welded the back side of these areas to thicken up the metal and give me some room to grind the face side without over thinning the metal.


The area to the right of the repair (right of the large hole shown below) will need a patch panel. I will be fabricating this in the future using one (or more) of my new tools. I can't wait.... I just shot some video footage of using it the for the first time yesterday and oh man... I know I'm teasing, sorry gang....not!

 

I also have to repair/make a patch panel for the inner structure at the top door jamb/window header area. Remember, this is a 31 Slant Window so it has the steel inner structure. The area at the front is completely gone. Also remember I am putting a 32 front header on this body so this area will change drastically in the future, but I don't yet know how much or exactly where, so it just makes sense to go ahead and repair this now and if it gets cut out later, so be it... But I am pretty sure most, if not all the inner area will stay as is even with the 32 header modification.



That's all for now, I will try and post more regularly now that I'm about to start some actual work for progress!

 

Elegant Arcs on those side doors...and rust......chasing the pins...yay or nay...its a challenge... you can also see why the Fordors were more bucks back then...more metalworking.