In a major bind here... Looking for any helpful technique tips/tricks on changing out inner tubes on the skinny Akront wire spoke front wheels on our Nostalgia dragster. We've got a flat needing repair ASAP for a quickly approaching season opener. These are the 2 or 2-1/4 inch aluminum front wheels combined with Hoosier slick tires. I'm completely fluent with all of this in the motorcycle and general automotive world but these things are a completely different animal. The tire side walls and beads are very thick and seem impossible to get on/off the skinny aluminum rim using any of the normal tactics. This is without even considering the need to finagle the tube either way during the process. I feel like there must be some "old school" tricks for doing these? Hoping that someone here can enlighten us, or possibly steer us to someone with the "know how" info of how to accomplish this without damaging anything. Needing to expedite this situation, if you have anything good to offer please call me ASAP at 507-402-4050. Thank you, Wayne Willey "Past Gas" blown alcohol dragster Albert Lea, MN
Crimp tire to make thin as you can , Side wall /bead to center of Wheel /Rim , good Quality motorcycle spoons that are thin
Also make sure you have the valve stem at 6:00 position and push it up inside the tire so you can get the beeds together and into the drop of the rim. Then work from the 12:00 spot both directions. They can be a real Bugger.
First, yeah I know you are no stranger to the process. But must ask. You have a fixture to hold the rim tightly, yes? Good. Extra hands are always better. Time to get close. Cheap smaller Irons can be found at Harbor freight. 2 irons can do most jobs but three irons work to your favor. Many types of lube work. The real stuff, RUGLYDE, or baby powder even WD40 ( which by now, we all hate ) AND of course a fearless HAMMER Fight the fight. A CINCH by the inch
If you lube it only use proper rubber lube. Anything containing petroleum will degrade rubber. WD is fine for help removing old tires that will be discarded, but not for installation.
You need heat and lube. Warm the wheel almost too hot to touch. Then break the bond between tire and rim and push the flank down (only one side of wheel). Secure the flank in the rims drop with wooden blocks . Once the whole circumference of tire is in the drop, lube it thoroughly. Now you could start with short tire levers to lever it over the rims edge.
I spent 15 plus years working in motorcycle shops and have done 100's and 100's of tires. Because of the extra thick sidewall and bead, and how narrow the rim is, the tolerances here are way to tight to allow using a machine. I wish it was that easy but it's not an option in this case.
The Hoosier tire doesn’t fit the Akront spoked wheel. I went through the same fitment issue a couple years ago on our C/Dragster. Try calling Hayden wheels 800.624.3803, they helped me out. I think we put Avon tires on, not sure, I sold the car this past winter. good luck! Chris
Sorry, it was actually a Kenda tire that Hayden set me up with. The car was originally built in '99 and the chassis builder, Mike Bos, put Goodyears on the wheels. I tried mounting up the Hoosiers after the Goodyears dry rotted after several years. I did get one of the Hoosiers on but it was not round. Couldn't get the second one on. Took the set to the D3 race at Columbus and the Hoosier guys couldn't even mount them. Eventually I got hooked up with Hayden and they straightened me out.
Thanks Chris. The Akront/Hoosier combo is what was on the car when we purchased it two years ago. Yeah, the probable correct answer here is what we're learning and finding out now. They were already on the car, but must have been mounted by a magician using pixie dust. When it comes to any servicing it's a nightmare combo as is. Through another local referral I actually just got off the phone with John at Hayden Enterprises about an hour ago. He was very courteous, helpful, informative and knew just what I was talking about with the Akront/Hoosier struggle. The root of whole problem here is the extra thick sidewall and bead of the Hoosier tire, it takes away all the physical room for any typical mounting/maneuvering and tube fitment. It's an ugly miracle they were ever able to be mounted in the first place. Thanks to John I've got some great info now and am very likely going to end up switching to ribbed Kenda rubber.
I’ve heard that all my life with no proof ever shown. I’ve used grease , WD40, oil, vasoline, soap, whatever I had slick to get the rubber to slide on the wheel. Never seen any degradation over years of owning said tires and wheels, nor did I ever have any problems out of them. Some of this shit just keeps getting repeated with no supporting facts until folks take it as true.
glad to hear you are getting it figured out. good luck with the racing! what exactly is the nostalgia dragster?
Chris, Since my phone recently decided to lose most all of my pictures all I have right now are a few crap ones. "Past Gas" is a 145" wheelbase 1035hp 374 cubic inch blown alcohol SBC Chevy/Powerglide Nostalgia Dragster. Here's a few photos, hopefully enough for a taste.
...but, scrolling down a ways through the link shown here you'll find some great "Past Gas" action shots from the 2023 Fallout Drags. Lot's of other cool stuff too. https://www.motorraceimages.com/Motor-Race-Images-Galleries/Fallout-Drags-8-Sep1623
I had the same problem with my home made Mysterion wheels. Finally took them to a tire shop after ruining 3 tubes. They got 'er done!
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