It uses the venturi effect from exhaust flow. As long as exhaust gas is under positive pressure and is passing over the venturi it draws gas through the sensor. It works at any condition above idle speed. This device is used by rolling road tuners when there is no lambda plug
I bought an AutoMeter that reads in actual numbers plus has the dancing wrap around LEDs to show lean/ok/rich graphically. It doesn’t fit the overall look I want for the car, so I didn’t want it permanently mounted. I got a single pod gauge mount from Amazon and a medium sized magnet from Harbor Freight and stuck it to the bottom of the dash. It’s useful for tuning and information, but also easily removed.
I use that adapter, as well. After a while, you can kind of sense what the AF numbers are going to be based on the car's driveability, and the numbers on my meter seem to align with that (even when using the tailpipe adapter). Even if it's within a half a point, you're close enough for most of the driving a non-racer will do. Additionally, I know from experience that the adapter will hold up to being dragged down the freeway because the user didn't clamp it down tightly enough.
You do not want a bung near header flange. I have an Inovate and and it specifies bung must be a minimum distance away. I think it is 36" but I do not remember the exact distance. John
Yep... been there. I have developed the process of lashing the cables to the fender to limit the amount of travel of a lose clamp.
I have the exact same gauge and mounted it the same way. A rubber coated magnet with a 1/4 20 threaded insert. When not needed it just goes under the the dash.
You want the O2 sensor bung to be about 36 inches or so back from the header flange at the block. I prefer to have it in the merge collector. Also, you want the sensor bung at about the 10 o'clock or 2 o'clock angle. Lastly, if you are going anywhere past the header-collector flange, make dang sure you have no exhaust leaks! I've seen a lot of cars with leaks at their header/collector gaskets - and that screws the readings all up. This is particularly important if you are using the tailpipe mounting shown earlier. If you have any leaky "slip connectors" or joints - fix them before messing with an AFR meter.
Here is the instructions from SpeedHut, it shows mounting the O2s. Standalone AFWB LED.pdf " Recommended 40" from closest exhaust valve "
Modern fuels will show a clean plug, even with a radically incorrect mixture. Light almond colored porcelain with a cruise AF ratio of 12.9:1 is possible. I saw it. The previous shop said the tune was "perfect". +45 wheel HP, and 11MPG later, it was perfect, but that took a wideband O2 sensor.