'57 Hardtop Survivor Build Thread

Giving this a try over here in the O/T section, given some of the parts selection on the car.....

I've had trifive fever for a little while now, and found a nice candidate a couple months ago. The backstory is a two family owned, 70k mile survivor that's unrestored. It was a little ways from the house, but I fortunately had a buddy that was going to be in the area to lay eyes on it before I invested the time to go get it.

It's a Bel Air hardtop - a bit cliche if you will, but the Sierra Gold and white interior make it stand out a bit to me. While unrestored no doubt, it has had a couple touch ups but being lacquer, it's been a while ago. Other than the EZ eye glass and powerglide, it's a no frills car.

 

When I started off searching for a '57, my intentions were going to be a LS/LT powertrain, in a Fast Track chassis. The course changed with this car though - it was too nice in my opinion to cut up. So with that, I took a step back to use exercise restraint on how much to change with the car.

I put together a plan for some chassis improvements in the suspension and brake departments, along with a transmission change. I couldn't bring myself to cut a whole in the floor, so I decided on a 200-4r to replace the powerglide.

I got the car in the air, stripped the chassis down to the frame, and was still surprised by how nice this car was underneath. The floors were perfect, with the red oxide still looking fairly vibrant. The car had a seamless frame (from the Norwood plant), in great condition. The chassis bushings were definitely tired, but those were getting serviced anyway.

 

I'm in for the build, whatever you choose to do with it!

 

The pending 200-4r swap wasn't going to pair well with the 3.36 axle ratio from the factory rear end. I sourced another donor third member off FB marketplace and then with the help of a friend, rebuilt it with a new Yukon 4.11 gear, posi, and Timken bearing kit. The gear set up nicely, and has been quiet!

 

While I was still waiting on new parts to arrive, I began degreasing the engine and frame. The engine had a generous coating of oil and grease on the sides of the block, due to some ancient valve cover gaskets. By the time I got it cleaned, there wasn't much paint left on it, and the same went for the frame.

With the intentions to drive this car, in whatever weather you get exposed to, I didn't want things getting surface rusty. I made the decision to brush and roll the engine and frame with some enamel, which laid out very well - you wouldn't guess it!

 

While the frame was fairly bare, I went through the engine bay, replacing the rubber engine mounts (the old ones that came out still had GM part numbers on them), as well as general tune up with new plugs, wires, coil, etc. I disassembled the carb for a good cleaning, before reassembling it with new gaskets and accelerator pump. Before it went back on, I tossed in a 1/4" phenolic spacer for good measure, and changed the vacuum advance over from ported to manifold vacuum.

 

Now for the suspension upgrades....

The front changed the most, with new stamped upper control arms for increased caster, along with rebuilt lower arms. I went with Wilwood's 2" drop spindle due to the minimal track width change when paired with their 11.5" 4-piston disc brake kit.

To continue the downward momentum, I used a pair of Ridetech coil overs for their adjustability (both dampening, but for ease of changing springs), and that they fit without clearancing the factory spring pockets. Finishing it off, I used a 1" CPP front stabilizer bar.

I rebuilt the steering with new tie rod ends, a new idler with bearings rather than the stock bushing, and kept the stock manual box, only needing a lash adjustment.

 

In the rear, I went to Eaton Detroit Springs for a new pair of their 3" lowered 4 leaf packs, and installed a pair of Ridetech adjustable shocks. I again went to CPP for a 7/8" rear bar, and adapted urethane bump stops in place of the stock rubber versions.

The newly built 4.11 third member went in the axle housing, and Wilwood's trifive 11" 4-piston brake kit went on.

 

When the transmission builder wrapped up the 200-4r, I began the tough exercise of extracting the cast iron powerglide from under the car....on my back! I borrowed a motor cycle jack from a friend, which worked extremely well for carefully getting it out from underneath.

I swapped in a new flex plate, along with a late '90s Chevy pickup staggered starter, before marrying the 200-4r to the engine and supporting it with a CPP trans crossmember and a side engine mount kit. The beauty of the 200-4r is that it's the same length of the aforementioned trans, so it went right back in the car after I replaced the u-joints and swapped the slip yoke.

 

With the brake upgrades, I decided to add a booster to the car, again turning to CPP for their master and booter combo, and a brake line kit. I was very pleased with the fitment of the CPP parts (and the other brands too) - which is something I'm not used to with aftermarket early Ford stuff.

While in the engine bay, I 3D printed an adapter bushing in aluminum allowing a more modern PCV valve to replace the road draft tube, and also 3D printed a stainless TV cable bracket to ensure the proper geometry worked on the WCFB.

Oh - and I had to swap in a pair of staggered Corvette valve covers (after a wash in the dishwasher!).

 

The interior got a few tweaks as well - most notably the C1 wheel and a restored SW tach from Chris Schlaff. He had a flange mount tach bracket that perfectly matched the heater control screw spacing! I 3D printed a plastic cup to conceal the wiring on the backside.

 

The rolling stock was the final piece for the car. I didn't think a flashy Bel Air could work with minimalistic steel wheels, so I went toward the other end with a set of early '60s American Racing magnesium 5-spoke. The wheels themself have a cool story - when I phoned the guy selling the set, one of the first inquiries I had were how he got them. The answer was they came on a '65 Corvette that he bought in 1967!

I wanted to run bias tires initially, but a big and little combo was going to force me with mismatched tires. I jumped in the radial camp, and sourced a set of tires from Diamond Back. It's been a while since I had radial tires, and couldn't believe how little weight was needed to achieve a balance!

I laser cut some steel center cap adapter plates, allowing me to use a circle track style camber/caster gauge that I borrowed from a friend. Over this past week, I dialed in the front alignment with some more modern specs, and proceeded to put 100 miles down yesterday.

 

I'm still blown away by the driving dynamic shift with this car. I knew the upgrades were directionally better, but wouldn't have guessed it would land as well as it did.

I have a few little projects on the car to pick away at, but my main focus is going to be adding some more miles to it this summer!

 

This is an amazing build. I can't even imagine how well this car drives with the changes that have been made. The conundrum for me would be the guilt of driving this every day knowing I'd wear it out in a few years.

I like the way you used the PCV in the road draft location. Smooth valve covers look so much better

Awesome stuff man

 

Very nice, practical, dependable street build.
Happy driving.

 

I’ve been meaning to ask, but how’s about a closeup of the rear wheel center caps?

 

You just made a real good car better…

 

Nice job! Besides replacing worn out front suspension parts, putting upper control arms that give you positive caster is the single best thing you can do to get an old car to drive well. On my 57, I also put the CPP quick ratio steering box on it was great. You've made some great improvements to that car! Enjoy!

 

Awesome car!

 

Wow! That looks great Cory and makes me want to go through my 56 Ford similarly. My car is also a pretty nice survivor but is in need of some of the same sort of attention you gave that 57. Thanks for the motivation.

 

Cool looking 57. I know you are going to enjoy it.

 

Original floor mats! Unreal condition, it looks awesome with those wheels.

 

The car has the same 15x6" wheel all around, but I wanted the rear to appear wider at first glance. I thought a flat cap could pull that off, so I designed a simple one in CAD. Instead of the common flat cap, this one has a slight convex center to add some depth to it.

I 3D printed them in aluminum, and attempted to darken them in the dishwasher like I did with the valve covers. For whatever reason, it wouldn't consistently darken, so I used some aluminum darkening acid to turn it dark gray.

 

Also, I wouldn't call it a no frills car, V8, auto, duals, deluxe heater, radio, clock, EZeye glass, floor mats, spinner hub caps, dual mirrors and rocker trim. Not bad! Plus the color is a favorite of mine for a '57. I'm glad you refrained from an LS swap.

 

Very cool!

 

Nice work on all of the upgrades. Sure turned out nice!

 

Looks fun as hell

 

Near perfect Cory, just missing a T-10 and a Hurst "C" shifter!