Hot Rods Runs but no fuel pressure

Wrapped up working on it tonight. disconnected the fuel line at the carb and it is pumping out a ton of fuel. Also hooked up an inline fuel booster pump and tested the fuel line at every stage along the way to the carb. Also ensured the accelerator pump is working. Was still running lean. Then changed the metering rods in the carb to run richer and adjusted the pump drive link up one. I have to drive it tomorrow and see how it responded to the crab changes, but from how it was sounding when revving in park i'm thinking it's still too lean. I'm borrowing a vacuum gauge tomorrow to see what the vacuum is at.

 

Since it's a new build; Make sure the acceleration pump squirter is squirting evenly out of both nozzles. And check the plug wires by the firing order to be sure there isn't a switched pair (might also check to see that you have referenced the correct firing order for the engine) And the Hunt is getting the correct voltage to work properly.
The last time I encountered that problem, I did everything suggested above and it turned out to be the spark plugs! They looked OK but I replaced the ACs with new Autolites and the backfire on acceleration was gone. Still is.

 

Had friend recently install the JH look alike and couldn't get the car to run correctly. Took it out and put the MSD back in. All well. Sent the JH back to the source and is waiting on autopsy.

 

Ah, So we do have the right firing order for the 331 but one thing we did do when wiring up the JH look alike was instead of going off the sheet where you match your firing order to the numbers on the cap,( in the 331 case it would be 1=1, 2=8, 3=4, 4=3, 5=6, 6=5, 7=7, 8=2) we instal the dizzy brought cyl 1 to TDC and started the firing order from there, then slightly turned to fine tune it. Would anyone know of issues doing it that way? Again it started up great and in idle it runs great.

 

I'll say it again . . . could be electrical

 

So I think I have this issue fixed. Thanks to all that gave ideas they all helped either directly or indirectly. Took it out this morning and it ran great no popping through the carb even when flooring it. With some feedback here and more research, the problem I believe was with the 1406 edelbrock with electric choke, they are tuned out of the box to be lean. I upped the metering rods, springs, and jets. Also adjusted the choke and idle screws properly. It's also running cooler as well (I did change the radiator fluid to water ratio.)

 

Atta boy! Persistence and patience. Nice to have it running right, huh?

 

Having a similar issue except I installed a fuel.pump safety switch that changed everything. Before the install and the Edelbrock mini pump (4-7 PSI) connected directly to the ignition switch the fuel pressure at the carb was 6.5 PSI set at the FPR. With the pump connected to the relay the engine starts and runs fine (feels a little weak if that makes sense) but the gauge reads 0 PSI. Switch it back and have pressure again. Any thoughts? Oil pressure is 50PSI at idle. Motor is a 1995 Ford 5.0 out of a Mustang GT.

 

Fuel pump safety switch? Is this an inertia switch that controls a relay? If so how is the switch wired? When I did mine I figured it better to use the switch to ground the relay, thereby not running the pump through the inertia switch, as I imagined the switch to not be good for the pump amperage requirement.

Chris

 

My FPSS is connected by a "T" block to the oil pressure sending unit. and the block Zero oil purssure and the fuel pump shuts off.

 

OK, kinda similar. It's got to be the wiring somewhere that's not providing enough power to the pump. The switch must needs to operate the switching side of the relay, not the pump supply.

Chris

 

Edelbrock is so easy to richen up the mixture by different springs or metering rods. Have you checked your main jet and rod combo?

 

Yes the switch provides the "trigger" to the relay and the relay should be sending battery voltage to the fuel pump. I will have to check and see what the voltage actually is. Thanks!