Ordering the radiator for my '62 Suburban. The truck is driven daily, including in the Atlanta summer. I plan on being stuck in traffic, I plan on towing, and I plan on running a stock 350. There are two different sizes of radiator for the '62: 1/2-ton and 3/4-1 ton. The core size on the 1/2-ton is 19 7/8 x 21 3/8 x 2 (849.65), while the 3/4-ton is 19 1/4 x 23 1/2 x 2 (904.75) I've ordered the larger of the two, as it will bolt in the same hole. I plan on running a fan shroud, probably running an electric fan/shroud assembly in place of an engine-mounted fixed or clutch fan. The core comes as a 3-row, and I can order the 4-core "Dessert Cooler." I've heard competing theories on the number of rows in a radiator, one being that by the time the air goes over the fourth row, it is already hot and won't cool the water any further. But the fourth row allows for more capacity in the fluid, allowing the fluid to stay in the other rows longer, since the water pump can only flow a set amount. Does anyone have experience going from a 3-row to a 4-row (with a well designed shroud and all else being good)? Did the temp drop noticably? Was it worth the extra $$? Brad
having a big block in a model A, I have tried everything and I finnaly ended up with a stock style, 3 row, 1932 copper brass radiator. I have no shroud (no room) and a dinky little flex fan (no room) I have an electric on the front of the radiator that is basically the only wind it gets stuck in traffic. I drained all the water and use this stuff called Evans waterless coolant. http://www.evanscooling.com Im not affiliated etc.. but I have to tell you this is the best stuff I have ever used. I have been in 110 degree heat in Utah doing 90 all day. I have been in 110 degree heat on the 405 in traffic jams for 2 hours and have never overheated. At idle I have 40lbs of oil pressure even when its that hot. Going to Viva it was hotter than hell and we got stuck in the work being done between Barstow and Vegas and my electric fan quit working. I had resigned myself to the fact my heads were going to blow off. They never did. It went up to about 220 but still had 35lbs of oil pressure at idle. I drove the rest of the trip with no problems. I cant recommend this stuff more. It doesn't eat aluminum manifolds and its reusable. My friend had it in his 57 for 10 years and took the manifold off to do some work and the aluminum looked brand new. He filtered the Evans with a coffee filter and put it back in. I use it in all my cars and my 4x4 that I use in Moab in even hotter weather.
One of the best explanations I've ever read on this subject... From JTR, innovators of V8 conversions in all kinds of cars. Pay particular attention to the radiator core photos and fan information. The principles apply to anything with a radiator. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/V8-chapters/V8-DatsunZ-Cooling-System.pdf
Whenever General Motors adds the towing package to a truck ... they always increase the number of radiator cores ... good enough for the *** General *** ... good enough for me ...
I hope those are some sort of flow characteristics you have on your post, my god those would be some high prices at least I think they are. I use a place called Radiator Express they ship FedEx and I ahave never had a problem Their phone number is 800-723-4286. If they ask who referred you tell them Chip from IBT in Jefferson City, Missouri.
i switched from a 3 to a 4 in my glass truck(ford 351) and it ran a full 15 degrees cooler .also never ever had a noticeable variation in temp regardless of how it was driven
It's not the number of rows. It's the core thickness. What's more efficient, a 2.5" core with 3 rows or four rows? The fin design and material the core is made from have a lot to do with it. A 2 row aluminum radiator with a 2" 2 row core will cool better than a copper/brass radiator of 2.5" with 4 rows. Air restriction through a core is increased with thickness. Aluminum transfers heat better than copper/brass. 2 large rows circulate better than 4 small ones. There is a lot more to consider.
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