Technical NEED ADVICE!

Hello, I hope someone can give me the answers I so desperately need. Heres what I got. 1940 Ford with a worn-out 350. It has the adapter to the original trans. I want to buy a crate motor, but most have the one-piece seal which would require me to get a new flywheel. I also have the Merc pressure plate and '40 disc and throwout bearing. Is there anyone who makes a new flywheel that's balanced {required because of the new crank} and I can bolt the Merc pressure plate to? A guy told me to look at the Ram PP #401, it's a diaphram type, but supposedly works. 2nd question, The heads on these new engines have those odd shaped exhaust ports where the bolt holes are below center. I want to use my 1956 cast manifolds if possible, but not sure there's enough material in them to elongate the holes. The other option is fender well headers

 

The simple way to would be to buy a crate motor with the right crank and exhaust ports. Which can be had from a number of places.

 

The ‘49-‘50 Merc pressure plate has the Borg & Beck bolt pattern and will bolt up to the Chevy one piece seal, external balance flywheel. But I’m not sure which heads you are describing with the bolt holes below the center line of the ports. Can you post a picture of the heads?

 

It is which crate motor you choose as far as buying one from a GM performance dealer .
You can buy a SP 350/357 at several levels of completion From long block to drop in. Those have exhaust ports that work with the older manifolds or headers.
You should be able to walk into a close by GM performance dealer and order on if that version is still available. https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/category/SB.html

 

Thank you, I’ll check those out

 

Thanks for your reply, the place I’m getting the flywheel from isn’t sure my pressure plate will bolt up, but I can always have it drilled, tapped and balanced. The heads I wanted to stay away from are the ones with the “D” shaped ports. Supposedly they are hard to find headers for

 

I’m trying to finish up the same swap in my 40. 350 with one piece seal, external balance, B&B pressure plate.
The flywheel I ended up using was this billet one, as I couldn’t find a stocker that worked.
Ordered a LUK cast replacement for the engine but it wasn’t drilled for B&B. Had to return it as there wasn’t enough meat on it to redrill and tap.
I got the billet one from Summit., I think. I can confirm that, if you want.

 

Okay, you have a setup that works, but the engine is tired. Why not have the engine rebuilt? Then you don't have to go searching for parts that might work.

 

X2

 

And if you want to upgrade some of the parts . . . no problem with that either.

 

Recently got a car with a crate that has the ports you are talking about. I used regular gaskets and headers.
Pis is of the old gaskets that leaked. I took normal precautions (cleaned surfaces, filed flanges, good gaskets with sealer) and have not had leaks in the short time it's run. If anything, it probably helps with reversion.

 

That set of heads has raised d-port style exhaust ports - which should flow a lot better than the older SBC designs. Obviously, one needs the correct gaskets and headers to match.

 

Thanks for the pic, yes, please send me the part number, thanks!

 

HOTRODA did you have to drill and tap?

 

Gaskets were standard SBC exhaust gaskets and headers were old school roadster headers. Bolted right up and sealed. Try to ignore the non-HAMB intake (and crate engine).

 

No, the billet flywheel came drilled and tapped with dual pattern. Pressure plate bolted right on.
The stock replacement flywheel (LUK brand) I got did not have enough thickness in the places needed to drill and tap it for B&B.

 

Part # by chance?

 

Sorry, Had a little trouble but had saved the box.
Out of stock now.
Try Jegs for a Centerforce brand. They have $20 off plus free ship. They also show a stock cast iron one plus a Chevy Performance part.

 

Thank you very much!