I was trying to pick my color for my 1963 Volvo 544 1 owner restoration and looking at Images on Google at other 544's when I stumbled on this Image. I thought at my age (70 at the time) I really would enjoy not having to bend over the fenders to work on it. After studying the image I realized it was a Photoshop Car only. In the meantime I did find a color for my 1963 Volvo - here it is - much livelier than it's original taupe color. The fenderless build had piqued my interest - While on Facebook I saw in the middle of the computer screen 4 cars from marketplace, one of which was a 1958 Volvo 444 (444's have split flat glass windshields and the 544 has one piece curved windshield). It's generally decrepit condition made it a bargain and no worries about the poor condition of the fenders etc. A nice guy from Ohio sold me the car and delivered it to me in Alabama. In short order I was in to it - 3 days later I am down to a bare body.
I studied the small size of the car and wanted to retain the seating position so a 90 deg V8 or V6 was ruled out. I found a dowdy 1993 S10 on Craigslist 95 miles away. Upon driving it I found the 2.8 l V6 TBI and 5 spd to run perfectly - so a mechanical donor was found. I wanted the complete drivetrain but not the good but ugly frame. In a week we have an engine. Being a retired Electrical Engineer I was very familiar with AutoCad (2D only not 3 D)- (note I said Electrical not Mechanical for the ME's that would shame my work). I proceeded to create dimension drawings overlaying the Volvo body over a home design/ built frame. Note I still use AutoCad 2000 - my really old version that still does all I need in 2D.
Early frame work with 2x3x1/8" wall tubing. I use inexpensive 1/2" EMT conduit as temporary bracing triangulated for rigidity. Each side has identical length rectangular tubing sections by tacking 2 pieces together and cutting with abrasive chop saw. All the lengths and miter cut angles were calculated in the AutoCad drawing.
Meanwhile this is the crust that needs peeled away. The rear inner fender will be replaced with 20 ga with a few internal angle stiffeners for a smooth look. There is a radius bead around the rear fenders and the rocker panel bottoms. Several sticks of 1/2" EMT conduit with my conduit bender and it will look OEM. Before cutting the rusty rockers away I made a plywood template of the rocker contour so that I could make both sides the same.
Rear 4 bar almost level at expected ride height. E-brake cable was checked for clearance throughout suspension travel. The rack and pinion mounts on a universal MII have to be optimized between available space and not creating bump steer. A little trickery to get the front sway bar to clear the rack and pinion mounts. Sway bar locking collars to keep the sway bar from walking left to right.
Trial fit the GM 2.8 L V6. I am transplanting the firewall portion (blue) of the S10 that has the hydraulic clutch master cylinder mount and a few other labor intensive items around the steering column. Power steering pump deleted but retaining the R4 A/C compressor mount. From the radiator fan to the rear axle straight from the S10. Only had to shorten driveshaft. Footroom measurement (the 444/ 544 cars get narrow at the A pillar. For some odd reason the S10 clutch pedal is ~ 2" further from floor than brake pedal.
Pedal assembly and E-brake mechanism in place. Building E-brake cable bracketry Studying multiple upper coilover mounting positions to keep coilovers in mid travel at ride height More rear suspension study Rear suspension at top with min driveshaft clearance showing E-brake cable clearance To the right you can see the rocker panels roughed in with 1/2" EMT conduit for the lower radius with 18 ga filling up the old rusty areas. The old crusty inner fenders yet to be cutout.
Used my manual conduit bender on 1/2" EMT conduit to repair fender lip reveal (EMT conduit radius is almost exactly same as OEM). Out with the original oddly contoured inner fenders and in with flat 18 ga since they will be visible. Repair rust below trunk with 20 ga. 4 link rear suspension is peeking out but has clearance for full travel by mocking up through full travel of coilover using 3 different lengths of 1" wide scrap unistrut channel. Also tested with expected max height tire that I would use (235/75R15 on Corvette style rally wheels) with one side fully compressed and opposite side fully extended to simulate extreme cornering situation. Working on floors, a bit of bead rolling for added stiffness. Note how high the floor is relative to the door threshold - this gave me about a 2" channel to lower the car without messing with the suspension. I use #8 self tapping screws to keep everything in place because they are a lot cheaper than Cleco's and fit in really tight places (a couple of boxes of 100 last years).
E-brake linkage from OEM handle to S10 rear brakes. There are several round scorched places visible on the floor where I put a weld and then wet rag quenched to cause shrinkage to stop "oil canning" that was due to all the welds. Just a few and the "oil canning" springiness tightens up and stops. I used to do this with an acetylene torch but a MIG is much quicker and the only down side is a spot of weld from the top side. Fuel and brake lines using copper/ nickel tubing (it is much easier to bend and flare). S10 Blazer new fuel tank and pump/ sender. Some 11 ga fish plates with plug welds to add strength to the butt welded tubing and oversized to provide a little gusseting.
Working on tilt front end (it will only be hood and grill). Underlying grill structure. Made some adjustable hinges. Raised front suspension full up to measure for c-notches Burned a rack and pinion rubber boot from welding (hint- cardboard is not a good weld shield) With a skin
Progress. Rear tires for rolling around shop are 225/70R15 on Chevy rally wheels while front has old 205/75R14 from S10. Some of the pics show front right with 15x5 GM rally with 185/80R15 from my stock 63 Volvo 544. The aluminum wheel that I may use is Vision 148, maybe a little too glitzy for this car. The grill and hood are welded together and tilt forward using stock rear hood latch.
Okay, now that’s looking really good! At car shows and cruise ins, I’m always attracted to something different…
We have paint. A little more assembly. Speedway 39 Chevy chrome tailights (similar to the early 50's 444 tailights).
Sewing my upholstery. For space and design reasons I decided to leave seat frames visible. Rear seat cushion is thin with the car sitting so low. Dash.
Decided on Torque thrust wheels, 205/75R15 front and 235/75R15 rear in same tread Hercules 455 series.
Many future items to finish 1. Grill 2. Steering wheel 3. Improved exhaust routing at rear and some glass pack resonators to lessen drone. Handles like a go cart but ride is a bit stiff. I would like to make the ride a bit less "jouncy".
Your inside AC evap looks like many inexpensive ones I’ve spotted on the net over the years and often wondered how they would work. In a tight spot they looked like a good option. Looks like it could freeze you out in a small interior. I’m a hide the tailpipe kinda guy. I hope can reroute and use hidden turndowns cut flat…. Car looks great..
I have used 4 of those under dash systems. The seller on ebay is Mastercool . They work just fine. Less than $600 including the Evaporator (heat and cool) Hoses Condenser drier and compressor. I also prefer the exhaust under the car. However the enormous S10 Blazer 20 gallon fuel tank didn't leave any room under the car with it sitting so low to the ground.
The Jalopy Journal
