Hot Rods 29 RPU- "Street/Strip" B/SR Build - Marty Strode

I haven't forgotten about this project, and after the Dragster goes out for the body, I will be back mopping up the loose ends, on this one. Today however, I did finally and painstakingly, drill the valve stem holes, and pressed in the bearing races in these Australian made Georgett wheels. I would guess they were cast and machined in the 70's and never used. They were a gift from my Aussie buddy Graham Harris, and belong on this truck !

 

Man those will look so kool on the truck

 

I dislike the way the the tire MFG paints the letters white, I know it's their way of advertising, but they don't belong on a vintage race car. I am using wax and grease remover, and a Scotchbrite pad. Anyone have a better way without hurting the rubber ?

 

Boy those wheels,definitely sure look killer on your rig!!!

 

When I took the paint off of my Hoosier's I used wax and grease remover and a rag, no Scotchbrite needed. Came right off... they were brand new, though.

 

Lacquer thinner?+rag

 

I think I tried that, and it was hard on the rubber.

 

Tire black?

 

I use this for the 75 series narrow white walls I use on my 56 Ford when mounting them black side out… it doesn’t wear off.

 

I use it to black out the inside letters when I mount them blackwall out.

 

Thanks boys, I will give that a try.

 

Wow. I haven’t seen that brush on “tire black” for 40 years. Might be a can in the garage I kept for nostalgia.

 

We took the '29 and the Dragster to an outing on Sat, good to see it outside. I have a few things to mop up on the Dragster, then I am back on the '29 till the finish.

 

Was great to actually see both cars Marty! Pictures here are great, but looking them over up close shows how nice your welds, and fabrication are! Thanks for inviting me to join you guys!

 

Thanks Vall, your little car fit in fine with the group. I appreciate the Bradshaw family for giving me that lot, to showcase vintage race oriented vehicles and provide a gathering spot for likeminded people. And it saves a lot of walking for many. It was great to have legends like Marlo Treit and Jack Slawick, some real history there, and friends of mine for over 50 years. Jack is giving me his frame table, that he built 35 Funny Car chassis on.

 

I don't remember if I mentioned that the 355" engine I had planned for this project, is going into the Dragster. A friend gave me a 327 block with stock bore, so I decided to build a .030 over 327 for 331 cu.in. engine for this one.
The block has been decked, line bored, and the rods are re-sized. My engine guy also bored it .025, while waiting for pistons, before honing for final fit, The KB pistons came yesterday, so he can now balance the assembly, as well. Since this is going to be street/strip, we will be selecting a hydraulic roller cam, and perhaps some aluminum heads.

 

Been curious about and chatting back and forth with the NHRA announcer about those Total Seal piston rings with gas ports. Might be good for this application.

 

I am leaving that up to the engine builder, he knows what works.

 

What a rig, SPECTACLAR!

 

Man I’m way behind I gotta catch up!

 

I’ll glance from a distance

 

A little update, I am back on this project, as the Top Banana Dragster is out getting the aluminum body built. The current plan is to run the 355" engine as my original intent, only it will be on gasoline, instead of alcohol. I dropped it off with Spud Miller (FIE) to have it gone through. I picked it up yesterday, and it looks great. When the Dragster is ready to run, the engine will be installed in it. I will switch it to alcohol, and by then the 331" will have the smaller 1-3/4" unit go in this car. For now, with the 2-1/16 injector on the engine, I can complete the throttle linkage, and go down the list of items, to get this one on the track.

 

Found the Spud Miller website and a couple of YouTube videos. Pretty quality stuff. Didn’t realize that he bought out Mallory Mag

 

I had a couple jobs promised this summer, and one of them was to make some hidden tiedowns for the hood top on this Model A. It's quite a combination of parts, 30-31 body, 29 fenders, and 32 grille. Back on the '29 soon !

 

Tick Tock Mr Strode. Tick Tock…

 

Yes I know, I try to be a man of my word, and do what I promised. I built him a complete race car 32 years ago, and his name is Marty, how could I turn him down.

 

It was time to handle the throttle pedal and linkage. So, today I pulled out some original spoon pedals, thinking I might be able to at least utilize the pedal portion. The problem was, I needed almost 2" of travel for the injector, and with the firewall and floor, I thought I had better start from scratch. 2 inches of travel at the pedal sounded good to me, so after machining up the pieces, and using some 5/16 female rod ends, I sawed out a boomerang out of steel, with 4 inches above and below the pivot point. I just happened to have a piece of 5/16 steel fuel line with a 10/32 nut tack welded on each end. It was exactly the right length, and worked well for setup. I will tap a piece of aluminum rod for the finished product. I could run the throttle with my foot, and found the ratio to be correct. So, then I duplicated the parts out of 1/4" aluminum, and am now looking for a small square, or rectangle pedal pad that can fit to the arm. Sorry bout the multiple pictures.
[ [ATTA [

 

beautiful work as usual marty.

I enjoy the little fabrication tips, like making rough cut templates out of cheap steel before wasting aluminum on the part.

thanks for sharing.

 

Getting ready to send the doors and Hood to Mitch Kim for some lettering, and decided to tackle the door panels. Down the road, I want to have Sam @bskustoms do the rest of the interior to match the seats he did, but for now it will have grained ABS plastic. This is far from perfect, but it will do for the time being.

 

Thanks, another thing I didn't show was, I drilled the hole in the pedal blade with a step drill, from both sides, leaving a narrow bit of extra metal in the middle. That way, I could lightly press the sleeve in, to the required depth, check it in the truck before welding.