Has anyone else had clearance issues when building a 101. I am trying to install one in my 28 model A and am finding a clearance issue between the main shaft and the spider gear assembly. I have turned down the shaft but it is getting awfully thin. ???
Worked great. Took my time and trimmed down the carrier. and shaft. Now here is another question. The Model A rear end requires 600wt gear oil. The 101 QC uses standard gear oil. Now what? What should I use?
I'm just putting together m first Pacific Model A unit. They call out the need to cut the carrier for clearance in their destructions. I don't like it but that's their solution. I believe that turning the lower shaft would be a better fix. Looks to me like about .060" less on the diameter would be enough. Unless you're making a bunch of torque and have tires to hook it up you should never break a lower shaft. I 40+ years of building QC's I have knowledge of only one breaking. My Quickchange mentor (Joy Fair) told me of a test session that he ran all day at a new to him track. Broke the shaft and had to load up and missed the race. Carried a spare for the rest of his racing career and never used it. This was in a 500 hp short track asphalt car with slicks.
600W oil is steam cylinder oil. It is 600W on the ISO scale. Gear oil is on the SAE scale. Not the same thing. 600W ISO is fairly close to 85W-140 SAE. You will do just fine with 80W-90 or 85W-140. In modern gear oils, both of those far exceed the lubrication requirements.
I am a little late on this, but here is a Model A carrier, machined to clear the lower shaft. As I remember the lower shaft was turned down in the same area.
That's a better fix IMHO! I would probably have tapered the turned down portion a bit. I think that is probably more than enough clearance.
I’m new to quick changes. just wondering how you get a pinion out of a Halibrand 101, knowing the V8’s must be pushed out rearwards. 101’s could (in theory) be removed from either side. Am I wrong, as the cases I’ve seen have nothing to retain the pinion in position, unlike a 201, which has an internal pinion support
Once you remove the nut you should be able to remove the pinion shaft. (The sort tapered shaft.) Then remove the two large nuts holding the pinion in place. It will then come out toward the inside of the housing.