Hot Rods Traction Master traction bars - Nuts/Bolts

Hi All,

I am looking for a source for the bolts/nuts used on the original Traction Master traction bars from the mid to late 60s. Would anyone know of a source?

The Traction Master website is up and running and I've tried calling and emailing the company but no response so far. I do understand it is a small, family run company. Would just like to get some replacements for a project where the nuts and bolts were mangled by prior owners.

Thanks,
SF

 

Even if you source the hardware from Traction Master, it's doubtful that it will be identical to the original hardware. A few years ago, I ordered replacement bushings from them; one of the bushings didn't fit, so I reused the best of the originals.

 

I'd be shopping at Ace Hardware, they have lots of sexy quality hardware to sift through.

 

Welcome to the HAMB
Not that it really matters but curious what these are going on and is your main objective here to retain 100% original appearance, could you post a photo of your Traction Masters?
Many years ago I built ten sets of TM's, these were the style that had the steel angle clamped to the front of the leaf spring, on the rear I used the steel bushing/bolt/urethane bushing combination common to most hot rods, pretty sure it was a 9/16 bolt (grade eight). This leads me to recall the original set of TM's I had used a 5/8 bolt directly through a rubber bushing, is that how yours is set up.
As far as getting hardware from the TM company, I'm guessing they just use the current cad plated grade eight bolts that are common today, thinking a person could hide the goldish color with a little bit of black paint (semi flat).

 

Thought you might like reading this, also has some photos.
One thing I noticed in one photo is the crimp/locknut.


https://www.yenko.net/forum/showthread.php?t=127073

 

Why not reach it to them..

http://www.tractionmaster.com/

 

Check with McMaster/Carr. If they don't have it, it isn't made. Good people that take care of busines.

 

Here are some current pics of my bars and it is a '66 Mustang that was originally out in Colorado, so they took a beating. I have already painted the Bars/Brackets in black. Staying 100% original would be nice but I'm already changing some things on the car and it will never be concours. I plan to drive the car like it was meant to be enjoyed.

I love the look of these original nut/bolts and can get the ones I have looking "decent" = no rust or paint. Car is being partly restored/repainted but when and where I can I'm reusing the original parts and pieces because the patina makes me happy.

There is wear and tear on the nuts (one with pretty severely rounded corners) and bolts (wear in the shank and threads). I do not think the bolts are unsafe in the current condition and for what they need to do.

Appreciate all the replies and info from the members here.

 

I've tried to call multiple times and sent email. Will keep on trying to call for a while longer.

 

Yes - 5/8 - 18 bolts. Mine show clear signs of wear from moving around.

I have new poly bushing for the bars.

 

Yup the Carr is the bomb

 

I'm very particular when it comes to details; I know what I like, even if it's not 100% original. However, it seems that the OP is going to extraordinary lengths to obtain original hardware for parts that aren't original to his car. Only the Shelbys came equipped with the bars, not regular Mustangs. He might be the only one who even notices, and it's not likely anyone will be impressed when he points them out.

 

Traction Master had an "original" inherent flaw with the front pivot bolt in single shear.
I experienced breakage on three different cars in the 60's before bracketing as double shear.
"Original" might look cool, but if actual function matters a bar dragging on the ground isn't.

 

McMaster Carr is the ticket. I wouldn't be so worried if they were not a perfect match. Likely something in at least a grade-5 and some interesting lock nuts would do it for me.

Ace Hardware has a line of A286 stainless steel hardware, tensile strength around 135-150 ksi, some with a flange under the bolt head.

At least the Ace by me has it. I'm not sure in a 5/8, is that 24 TPI? The fine stuff, not as great a selection, but I'd only go with fine thread,

 

I’m guessing that the correct fasteners are wanted. Since none of these had stock vehicle manufacturers #’s they are not going on a Pebble Beach restoration. I believe in shoulder bolts going thru bracket/mounts and bushings. This usually means finding a bolt that’s way longer than needed and cutting off threads. ACE for some if local and McMaster-Carr for the rest. They also have many types of locking nuts and wave or Belleville washers to keep pressure when needed…

 

Yes, 55blacktie, and there you have it.... Shelbys originally equipped with the bars and hence my desire to keep the look. These are original to the car I'm working on. Appreciate your insights on this!

I know it's a bit weird to want to keep some pieces original but they take liberties and change other parts/pieces/looks.

 

Yes, I'm 100% aligned with your insights and thinking, even though I've not had a failure (yet). No question you are giving good advice and on other cars where I have installed TM bars, I did it so the fount mounting was braced and reinforced. (Had an engineer/friend provide same insights on the first set I added to a car so I didn't have to learn the hard way.)

Using that same approach on this car is a little outside where I want to go in terms of modifications. I'll make changes that are well hidden and relatively easy to reverse.

You have me trying to think about other approaches to improve things and keep the looks inline with the approach.

 

Have browsed the site and have some pieces in my cart - in the event I can't reach a better solution. Still working on it, but very secure that Carr has a functional solution. Just not quite ready to abandon "the look" yet.

 

I'm not aware of any Mustang coming off a Ford assembly line with TM bars installed. If you have a Shelby Mustang, you'll probably have better luck posting on a Shelby forum.

 

Update: I ended up getting nuts (grade 8 nylock) from Ace for now - to get the car back together. Will continue looking for an "original" look.

 

. The bolts you have were made by the National Bolt company which is long out of business. They are grade three bolts.

The nuts are Stover type lock nuts which are available from several sources.

 

Thank you!

 

Looks like Traction Masters is no longer...? Says "temporarily closed" online. No one answers emails or the phone anymore.

 

The L.A. fires might have something to do with their (temporary) closure.

 

I've seen these crimped or interference nuts at my local ACE, if you dive a little deeper, they should be there
Or you could reuse the original nuts with Loctite if they feel loose on the new grade 8 bolt

 

That "original bolt" image doesn't look like an original bolt to me. There's no telling when or where the bolts came from on that older setup. You know the old joke about, "You damn right it's original, except it's had 3 new bolts and 5 new nuts since then".
You want the shank to be solid all the way through the bushing and the outside of the bracket before the threads start. You may have to make a custom-thickness washer to get it just right.