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Hot Rods The "Whatever" project

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Dave G in Gansevoort, Sep 28, 2020.

  1. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 6,227

    RodStRace
    Member

    I want to take the local course
    Stinks that the fall semester Starts toward the end of August, when it's still nice driving. Thinking I might get the bed, headlights and grill shell done first. That means doing the floor and the bracing before bodywork, which means it's dead in the garage then. One day a week in the school, the rest done at home. I could shoot primer at home, but don't want to do it in the garage and it's windy here.

    and use TPC Global stuff.
    A gallon of primer which is good stuff (used the 2k stuff before) is 131
    https://tcpglobal.com/collections/urethane-primers/products/upo-2253v-kit-std
    paint is 210 for the kit
    https://tcpglobal.com/collections/acrylic-urethane-paint-boulevard-black/products/rsp-au1905-kit-m
    The body stuff should take half that, but it leaves extra for the frame and chassis.

    I guess a case of aerosol would be cheaper, but I'd rather get the layout a gun gives you. @Tim_with_a_T is probably going to do a full-on pro-style job in his lean-to on the driveway. I just hope he's happy with the first attempt! :D

    P.S. took it out with the new tie rods and no wobble at least to 40 or so!!!

    EDIT: just had a fierce dust devil roll though to remind me a pop up garage for shooting is not smart here!
     
    Last edited: Jul 4, 2024
  2. Dave G in Gansevoort
    Joined: Mar 28, 2019
    Posts: 3,144

    Dave G in Gansevoort
    Member
    from Upstate NY

    Well, you and Tim will get done so much sooner than I will. I'll keep watching to see what you do. Hopefully some of the technique will transfer thru the internet and I'll be able to make an attempt at the finish. Otherwise you both might have to take a road trip...
     
  3. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 6,227

    RodStRace
    Member

    With that start time, I may postpone it until the spring. Dec. is the end of the fall so the spring should start in Jan. Much better timing.
    BTW, Black is a great base for metalflake, you just keep shooting until you can't see the Black! It might as well scream fiberglass, right?
    https://tcpglobal.com/pages/custom-shop-flakes

    Of course, the clear is another layer and you need a bunch, plus another round of blocking, followed by cut 'n buff.
    https://tcpglobal.com/collections/clear-coats-cus/products/cus-kit-kc2010-gl
     
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  4. Dave G in Gansevoort
    Joined: Mar 28, 2019
    Posts: 3,144

    Dave G in Gansevoort
    Member
    from Upstate NY

    How about using a roller? That's more my style... but is there ever an end to the block sanding?
     
  5. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 6,227

    RodStRace
    Member

    The end of block sanding is going to be the hairpin mounts on the frame. Everything behind that is covered by the body! :D:D
     
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  6. ratrodrodder
    Joined: Feb 19, 2008
    Posts: 414

    ratrodrodder
    Member
    from Boston

    I think block sanding ends around 3000 grit or so, unless you're trying for that Lost in Space depth...
     
  7. GearheadsQCE
    Joined: Mar 23, 2011
    Posts: 3,571

    GearheadsQCE
    Alliance Vendor

    My block sanding ends around 600 grit!
     
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  8. ratrodrodder
    Joined: Feb 19, 2008
    Posts: 414

    ratrodrodder
    Member
    from Boston

    Well sure, if you have a life outside of sanding and aren't getting paid for it, and/or don't care how your finish looks under a microscope, you can stop at 600. Makes those who stop at 800 grit look even better! :p
     
  9. Dave G in Gansevoort
    Joined: Mar 28, 2019
    Posts: 3,144

    Dave G in Gansevoort
    Member
    from Upstate NY

    Block sanding? We don' do no steenkin' blocksanding!

    If I had used a real body instead of the plastic one, I'd just use the jitterbug on it, and leave it in bare metal. I'd use that oil everyone talks about...

    On another note, soon onto the carburetors.
     
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  10. Dave G in Gansevoort
    Joined: Mar 28, 2019
    Posts: 3,144

    Dave G in Gansevoort
    Member
    from Upstate NY

    Been collecting parts lately and got some pictures of the stuff that has collected. I'll start with today's acquisition, an aluminum case Powerglide. Thanks Walt! Rest that back, and get back to the garage soon.
    DSCN1963.JPG It's not greasy and grimy, just has that fuzz that old aluminium parts all seem to grow. No cracks, everything seems to turn. Haven't looked at the fluid condition yet, to see , as the First Edition song sort of went, what condition my transmission is in...

    Oh that was bad! I'll try not to do that again. While I was checking it out, I took a few minutes with a small wire brush and gave the case a bit of a dusting to see how difficult it was going to be to buff up the case.
    DSCN1964.JPG Here's the results. Between a brush and some Scotch pads, I think it's going to clean up good when I freshen it up. It's been since the late 70s that I took an automatic transmission apart. Think I better get a manual...

    Next, a pair of Buick aluminum brake drums. They were painted, and they are in great condition. I miked the id and they are 12.022 to 12.025, with smooth surfaces. A light scuff with a Scotch pad and a soda blast and they're ready to use. Here's pictures of one. DSCN1967.JPG DSCN1968.JPG DSCN1969.JPG I know, that 2nd drum picture sucks! No talent, that's me!

    And finally the 3 deuce setup. I think I have enough carburetors to build up a set, I've got 4-1/4 2G Rochesters.
    DSCN1965.JPG But wait, you're saying, there's not 4 there! WTF? Well, the 4th one is still on the 283. I'm going to leave it on there, so it's still a runner. And the new manifold:
    DSCN1966.JPG Isn't that manifold purdy? And those ports are certainly small! So now all I have to do is get back out there and turn some wrenches!
     
  11. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 6,227

    RodStRace
    Member

    They do have etching chemicals for aluminum, but tread carefully.
    There have been a few threads here about getting cast back to original looking, but there wasn't a general consensus on that mystical cheap, easy, safe solution, IIRC.
    Good to see you still plugging along.
     
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  12. Dave G in Gansevoort
    Joined: Mar 28, 2019
    Posts: 3,144

    Dave G in Gansevoort
    Member
    from Upstate NY

    BTW, what do the cooling holes in the case indicate wrt the application and low gear ratio? I'm being lazy here, and not wanting to get out in the garage and look for numbers. I just know that everyone here has already started to figure that out...

    So do the cooling holes in the case give any clues? Thanks

    And yes, you can all verbally abuse me, and harangue me unmercifully. I wouldn't expect less!
     
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  13. Dave G in Gansevoort
    Joined: Mar 28, 2019
    Posts: 3,144

    Dave G in Gansevoort
    Member
    from Upstate NY

    Thanks Walt. I took a look at the case. It has the bosses for external oil cooling, but more searching seems to show that I may have to do a little bit of work to make it work without an air cooled converter. On the positive side, if I get a Vega torque converter, I'll get a little bit higher stall speed and the air cooling!

    Not insurmountable obstacles, rather opportunities to excel! Glass is half full...

    Being a retired professional engineer, I see that glass as being too big for the job!

    Anyway, I have a bit of digging to do. I'm willing to bet that the inside is in decent shape, given that it probably came out of a granny-mobile with a 6 banger. And she only drove to church with it...
     
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