Was looking at the timing slips, am I right it saying your ET does not include your reaction time? So in theory you could post a slower ET and still win by being faster to react?
No sir, Reaction Time is simply a measure of how much of a headstart you got on your opponent, or how much he got on you without going Red, and is not accounted for in your dial-in or elapsed time.
Your 107 mph indicates that with everything "right" for drag racing you could run a 12.38 elapsed time. Lots of work to get there but the HP is there.
When bracket racing, if you want to win every time you need to get a reaction time of 0.0000, and run your dial in time exactly. If two cars run their dial in time exactly, the car that gets there first will win, unless he redlights. This where the racing is...getting off the line right as the light turns green.
That is only if the car is set up for drag racing. Since yours is a road car, you would have to make changes that would be detrimental to it's main use. It could 'split the difference' and be decent at both, but weight transfer at launch is not something that translates well to accelerating out of a corner.
Your reaction is the time it takes you to break the staged beam when the green light comes on. Thats why you can leave somewhere on the last yellow to get a bit of a head start.
107 mph and if your corvette weighs 3200 lbs. your making a little over 300hp. According to Wallace racing calculators.
From what I heard in the video, you ended in third gear and you had more to go? If so, my guess is that lower gears would help as much as anything but not sure how those would work with the normal racing you do.
Absolutely, as does both front and rear suspension setup and design, shock absorbers and many drag race oriented things that would ruin the car for a road course. Your times are quite respectable, and especially for a first experience. The manual transmission is a challenge on the dragstrip compared to an auto with converter. Well done!
A set of slicks would probably make a fair bit of difference I’d imagine. The Avons I run are a sticky road tyre but the GT40 guys will do the whole of the Spa 6 hours on one set of them so they aren’t that soft.
You could gain a lot just in your 60 ft times, little better burnout to get the tires a little softer and a little more rpm to get out of that bog that's happening.
I've done between 600-700 passes since I started drag racing at age 54, I'm now 67. My HA/GR has no electronic aids, manual gearbox with a street style clutch and I still haven't done a perfect reaction time. I've been close with 0.002 and a 0.001 red light but not the elusive 0.000.
Perfect run may be a couple tenths better. With a stick shift car there should be some wheel spin but not excessive or not enough spin to bog the engine. Reaction time will have no affect on your ET.
I was thinking perfect in terms of no bog or wheelspin. I think it should just drop into the 12.9s if I get it right. On of the sponsors of our race series has got a day at the strip in August so might go along for another try.
If you dead hook it will bog the engine so there has to be some wheel spin to keep the rpm up , but not so much spin that it slows your momentum. It’s a very fine line with a stick shift car.
Going back for another go on Monday. Thought I’d give the car a once over. This, it turns out, was full throttle: No idea how long it’s been like that but I’m guessing at least the whole of this season. Wonder what difference it’ll make??
heh...Plan II would do that with the throttle linkage, it usually ran about a second slow. I finally figured out the permanent fix for the problem when the pedal arm broke off completely, after repairing that it was good.
Butterfly screws are ok The cable bracket at the carb end has bent. I’ve got a throttle pedal stop so if it does it again I’ll beef up the bracket.
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