Coronet 500 I bought a few months ago will not start. It has a 318 poly original 1966. I was told that it had been sitting for 20 years. It didn't have a battery, coil, fuel pump or belts. I've replaced the coil, plugs, plug wires, points, condenser, cap and rotor, voltage regulator and ballast resistor, battery, oil, fuel pump. Still no spark. Engine did start spinning but now it just bumps about a 1/4 turn and battery wires get extremely hot. I've also replaced the starter. Any suggestions?
I can’t say I’m familiar with that car, but does it have good ground cables? Clean where the negative battery cable mounts to the engine? Is there a ground strap from the engine to the body?
Got to try to remove all the plugs and “ bar “ it over one full revolution 360* . If it bars over completely , you have some type of electrical issue . My thoughts are load test the battery : volt meter while cranking drops under 10 volts , look for a new battery .
The space in between the fan and the crankshaft pulley is too close to get a breaker bar on the nut to turn it. I have a new battery.
Maybe pull all the plugs and see if it will crank over? Did you put any lubrication in the cylinders through the spark plug holes when the plugs were out to be replaced?
You are in luck. I have had several 66 Dodge Coronets, some with the poly 318, some with a 383. The 500 is just a trim package with more chrome trim and a fancier interior then a 440 body trim package. Did you replace the gas in the gas tank? Or are you trying to start it with the old gas? Did you at least squirt a little oil into the cylinders before you started cranking it over? Change the motor oil and filter? Pull the dip stick out and see if the oil smells like gas. If you have been trying to start it a while, there are good odds the motor has been badly flooded with gas, and that gas is now in the oil pan mixed with the oil. If you did not change the oil and the filter, or it smells like gas, you need to change the oil & filter. Pull all the spark plugs out of the motor and set them a side for right now. At this point it would be a great idea if you got a pump oil can and shot about 3 pumps of motor oil into each cylinder through the spark plug holes. If nothing else, it will help a bit later. With the plugs out of the motor, you should be able to turn the motor over by pulling on the cooling fan blades. It should turn very easily (the plugs in the motor is what causes the compression, without the plugs there, there can not be compression in the motor). A good starter motor should be able to spin the motor over with ease. I know you don't think it will fit, but a 1/2" drive deep well 1 1/4" socket will fit on the bolt that holds the harmonic balancer on and will stick out past the lower pulley enough for a 1/2' drive ratchet or breaker bar to fit between the fan and the radiator (or over towards one side or the other fairly easy). With the plugs out, the ratchet should easily turn the motor over, there should be almost no resistance. With the plugs out, if the motor does not turn over very easy, the motor has a major problem and the motor has to come out of the car. If the motor turns easily, the next step is to see if the rotor in the distributer is turning. To check that, you simply need to remove the distributer cap, shift it out of the way, note where the rotor is pointing, and spin the motor over with the starter or by pulling the fan blade or ratchet handle. The rotor either turns as the motor does, or it doesn't turn at all as the motor turns. If the rotor does not turn as the motor turns over, the motor needs a timing chain and timing gears. If the rotor turns as the motor turns, that is probably good news, but there still could be a problem with the timing chain and gears. If you have not yet marked the harmonic balancer timing line, you will need to do it now. You also need to mark the timing tab on the timing chain cover (I believe its on the right side of the water pump pulley, but Dodge changed it location from one side of the motor to the other and I simply don't remember which side of the water pump the timing tab is on). The tab should have a 0 (or "TDC") and then be marked with 10 lines each representing 1 degree. If you have the specs for timing the motor, use those specs to mark the proper degrees, if you do not have the specs, mark it for 5 degrees before TDC as a generic starting point. With the timing marks easily identified, its time to bring #1 cylinder up on compression. With the plugs still out of the motor, hold your finger over the #1 plug hole in the head (if you are looking at the motor from under the hood, #1 will be the front plug hole on your right side). Turn the motor over in the direction the starter spins it over. I suggest you turn it over by hand. A deep well 1/2" drive 1 1/4" socket will fit over the bolt in the center of the lower pulley, and you can put a 1/2" drive ratchet on the deep well socket and the ratchet handle will come up between the fan and the radiator (or to one side or the other). You can turn the motor over with the ratchet as your finger on the other hand is covering the plug hole in the head. When you feel the compression pushing against your finger, stop turning the motor until you can position yourself to see the timing marks. Slowly bring the line on the harmonic balancer until it lines up with the mark on the timing pad. This should be #1 plug on compression and should be the time for the spark to go out to the #1 spark plug wire. It should be noted here that that timing tab and harmonic balancer marks are only pointing at # 1 spark plug every other revolution. The other 2 regulations it will be pointing at #6 spark plug. It is important that #1 plug is on compression when the plug wires are set. We still have one more test to do. With the timing marks lined up, reverse the ratchet so it will turn the motor the other way. Position yourself so you can clearly see the rotor. With the ratchet reversed, very slowly turn the crank backwards until you see the rotor start to move backwards (should be much of a turn). As soon as you see the rotor start to move backwards, stop. The number of degrees the crankshaft has turned is how many degrees of slop the timing chain has. You can double check that by simply reversing the ratchet again (so it turns the motor in the proper direction), and turn the crank until you see the rotor start to move forward. If you are good, the number of degrees should be about the same. This should put your timing back where it should be. If I remember correctly 3-5 degrees of timing chain slop is acceptable. More then that probably should have the timing chain and gears changed. More then 10 degrees, it probably means the timing chain has already slipped and needs to be change before the motor will run properly. At his point, the position of the vacuum canister on the distributer is important. The canister should be in a position where it will not make contact with the intake or the oil pressure sending unit or oil pressure gauge line. Simply loosen the locking bolt slightly and turn the distributer it so it can be adjusted in either direction. With the vacuum canister in the correct position, the rotor is pointing should be where the #1 spark plug wire is plugged into the distributer cap. Put the plug wires around the cap in the correct direction so the spark can go to the correct plugs in the firing order. Now you can put the plugs back in and the wires back on the correct plugs, and if the points are properly set, the motor should start. Set your timing with a timing light and tighten the distributer locking bolt. By far, the most often mistake of mechanics is having the plug wires at the wrong place, or mixed up, or positioned in the wrong direction. The 2nd biggest mistake is improperly set point gap.
Yes, I replaced all the plugs and before putting them in I put some marvel mystery oil into each hole.
About 2 weeks ago I had the engine turning as it was under battery power, cranking and cranking but no spark. I ordered a voltage regulator and a ballast resistor thinking that that would solve the problem and while I waited for parts to come in the mail, I did the front brakes. So, I got the parts in 2 days ago and installed them and now it won't crank again. Before I did all that, I was able to get the engine to spin over and over but stopped because it was draining a brand new battery. I replaced that battery with a newer one with more amps and it did the same with no spark but it did turn. Now it just bumps roughly 1/4inch turn with ignition and not spin over like before still no spark. Replaced coil, battery,plugs wires, cap rotor,points, condenser. There was no oil in engine, the drain plug I found in the trunk. No fuel in system because gas tank and hoses were also in the trunk. I had to order a new ignition because it had no keys and I had to pick the trunk lock and that's when I found the missing gas tank parts and other components. Basically when I got the car, it seems like the previous owner had a fuel problem because the fuel pump was not installed and a new one still in the package was in the trunk and the alternator was disconnected from the engine just sitting in the engine bay. There was no coil, no battery, no oil, no fuel, no coolant, no oil dipstick. I will try to replace wires and fuses next.
I also had put marvel mystery oil into each hole. I put new oil in the engine and replaced the filter and bought a dipstick.
Sounds like your battery may be dead again. Have you put it on a charger? Tried to jump it? Those cars were known to have electrical gremlins 66-67 Satellites and Coronets. I come from a long line of them. Voltage to the coil? Point gap .016? How many miles are on the engine? Check the horn, see if it works. If not check the circuit breaker on the core support to the left of the radiator.
Hey guys, if the motor is locked up or nearly locked up, nothing after that matters until that is fixed. I laid out a test procedure for him to follow. I have been a professional auto mechanic for years, and have worked on all my vehicles since I was 15, which includes getting motors that don't run to run. I've spent a lot time typing out a procedure for you to follow to get the motor to run. I have used this very procedure for nearly 50 years now. It has always worked. One thing that DOES NOT work is throwing more parts at it. Follow the procedure I have laid out for you. If you need help at any step, I will guide you through it, but we have to communicate using the same terms so we both understand each other. We need to take each step in the order I have it laid out. Skipping around will miss something, and what gets missed may be the problem. I see you have put new oil in the engine and have replaced the filter. I also see you have put Marvel Mystery oil in each spark plug hole. Regular motor oil would have been better, but the Marvel Mystery oil will work for now. Right now, go out and remove all the spark plugs. With all of the plugs out of the motor, with a fully charged battery, see if the starter will crank the motor over. I am only concerned about if the motor turns over freely. Nothing else. One question. Two choices. Two outcomes. 1) With all the plugs out, does the starter crank the motor over very easily? Choices: A) The starter DOES NOT, or can barely turn (crank, or spin) the motor over. B) The starter turns (cranks, or spins) the motor over very fast. Outcomes: a) The motor does not turn over easily. FAIL! The motor has a problem and probably needs to come out of the car. b) The motor turns over fast and freely. SUCCESS! We can move to the next point. We can do this one step at a time, or you can quote my original post and answer the questions after each paragraph right in the quote itself with a different color of font print. The red shows up easily. If you do it that way, you can work at your own pace, and I have told you at the end of each paragraph the failure points. If you reach a failure point with a fail, I tell your what needs to be done. No reason to go any farther until the failure has been repaired. If I have to take this a step at a time, you will be working at the pace at which I can respond to, which may be much slower.
Don’t you think starting out with a fully charged battery is a good idea too? Or could the starter or solenoid be hurt from cranking too long? And that circuit breaker I mentioned on the core support will keep a Chrysler from cranking. Try baring it over with a rachet.
I will check all those things, I have to go out of town tomorrow and will do it when I get back. Thank you.
I took out the spark plugs and it was doing the same, very barely moving. I have officially decided to pull the motor and I'm going tomorrow to pick up a 440 from a guy who pulled it out a 78 motorhome.
I just want to not invest into an engine that is difficult to get good performance parts for, the 440 can find parts all day every day.
There will be a lot more parts you will need in addition to the 440. Changing from the poly 318 to the 440 will require a big block transmission (which your poly 318 does not have, and the transmission out of the RV may or may not work in the Coronet). You will need a different radiator (the upper and lower radiator hoses will both be on the wrong side). You will also need a different exhaust system, what you have won't fit the 440. Your going to need a different oil pan for the RV 440 (you need a big block oil pan for a car, the RV oil pan is for a truck). You may need to change the K member that the motor bolts too as well, the car big block oil pan might the opening in the K member for the oil pan sump.
I'm aware that many parts will need to be replaced, but I wasn't very thrilled with the 318. Having the 440 is going to make me happier. I don't want a weak Coronet and I am just taking my time with it to do it right.
Hey, Gene; Thanks for taking the time to type out a good procedure. Well thought-out & written. Marcus...
Of course it will fit, the question becomes what do you need to change to get it installed? I'd expect at least the lower linkage and the coolant lines then there is the driveshaft length, flexplate/converter, on and on until it's in and working. It's essentially the same process you're going to go through to replace the 318 with a 440.
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