Drive it... my 402 keeps running better, the more fuel that goes thru it. Runs better on premium. It will ping on 89 lugging up hill 1200-1400 rpm. 3 days 660+ miles. Now a Sway bar, and Gear Vendor Overdrive, this truck will be fun.
JUust FYI.....Retarded timing means un-burned fuel is being spewed into the exhaust manifolds because of late exhaust valve closing. Advancing timing stops / limits this. Just trying to help...not have a peeing contest. 6sally6
No peeing contest suggested....just trying to get a full mechanical understanding of this. I responded to your suggestion that more advance would make it run cooler...it's my understanding that more advance makes it run leaner and lean means heat - especially with iron heads. My engine certainly exhibits this - at 8 initial, it runs cool 185...but at 12, it heats up quickly (not over-heating, but sits at 230). I like the way it runs right now at 8 initial, mid range is great and 185 - but off the line is disappointing. I'm going to play with the accelerator pump linkage and possibly squirters this weekend in attempt to get rid of the slight hesitation off-the-line. I may also lighten the dist. springs and experiment with that.
sorry for the very late reply, 327 with flat top's using 64 cc 462 heads is more like the specs of the 327/300hp compression in that motor was listed as 10.25. only the 300hp had 64 cc 461's used the smaller 1.94 n 1.5 valves verses the 2.02 x1.6 of the 462's the 327/350 cams i used started pulling around 3000, low end they were dogs top end pulled like demon's other wise my 300's were all great motors, when my pocket was lean i could run reg gas in a pinch with little ping
461 and 462 heads came with both size valves. There weren't seperate castings for the different valve sizes.
my point was for the compression ratio, 62 cc small valve made 10.5 the 64 cc which used the unshrouded 2.02 intakes heads made for 10.25 the lowly, 250 hp 327 using the 3795896/74 cc power pack heads sat at 9.5 small chamber heads with pop tops made 11.5 the 300 hp 327 was a odd ball, small chamber heads, flat top pistons, 250 hp cam, a 1 hp engine only longer runner cast iron intake with a AFB, bigger 2.5 outlet ram horn exhaust manifolds ,
I'm reopening this discussion because I am getting ready to pull my TH350 with leaking front seal out to have it gone through and I'm wondering if I should put some sort of stall converter in there when I put it back together? My rear end gear is a 350 and my tires are about 32 in tall. My camshaft build sheet is on an earlier post in this thread in the car weighs around 2,000 lb wet. I'm wondering if letting it get a little RPM before the pump locks up might make it peppier? I just want to do a huge burnout from a dead stop but can't (it'll spin the tires though if you drop it down and punch it). Thoughts?
A light car can use a bit of stall, but too much is going to be miserable. Did you get the engine dialed in well? It sounds like it is still working the way it did at the start. Won't spin the tires from a dead stop, but will while moving. If you change the converter then get the engine happier, you could end up switching back. I kind of understand wanting certain characteristics, but having it hook from a stop is a GOOD thing. Lots of guys try to tune that out. Are the tires sticky? What pressure are you running? Does the rear end lift, remain the same or squat from a stop? What rear suspension are you running? How much Stall are you getting now? Lots of questions to ponder before throwing parts at it.
What is the rear end ratio ????? Just be careful with high stall converters [if the stall is higher than the cruising rpm] The higher the stall ,the lower the rear ratio. [they are "bed partners"] Dick with the governor on the side of the trans [it's accessible without opening the trans ] You can play with the weights and springs just like a Dizzy to move the shift positions higher or lower. the Kits are cheap https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-700316 And get some lessons from "professor Youtube" on how to play with the governor
My very similar 327 likes 12* initial but it also likes 91 octane, which I can't always get. I compromise at 10* and can get by with 87 octane. Gary
^^^^THIS will make a noticeable difference... Light springs....total advance in by 2000/2500 RPM.... hi-test fuel...dialed in carb...you will be able to hear the quickness in the engine acceleration(when you wiing the carb linkage)...should net the smokey burnouts you are looking for. I always wanted to try running the windshield washer hose to the top rear tires. Maybe run a little bleach and water mixture. (You get where I'm going here!?) Let us know 6sally6
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